PPCB Mystery meat

Locrian99

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
Hello,

I think I’ve had this board made and not in an enclosure yet for almost a month and a half now. My initial impression when I just had the board running through a breadboard to my amp was Luke warm at best. Didn’t seem too inspiring. I played around with swapping some diodes around ended up with the stock selection couple 1n34a 1n270 and a 4148. I’d be curious exactly how those are arranged though. I assume how it’s on the board it’s symmetrical with 1 34 with the 270 and 1 34 with the 4148. Anyways. I was running it into a little super champ x2 amp with my strat and was not overly impressed prior to boxing it. I boxed it up a couple days ago and have been playing through a little modded epi valve junior head I picked up on market place. So plugged it in there, and was pretty surprised was very happy with it. Thought it was odd so I grabbed the fender and ran it through that again and it seemed to lose a little something. Still sounds like a pretty good overdrive but def responds better to my ears on the other amp. Has a lot of versatility which is something I’ve found I appreciate a lot in overdrives of late. I am doing some testing and this may replace my timmy ish pedal on my board.

Build was very straight forward no issues. I’ve ran it at both 18v and 9V both work well. Went with some rattlecan hammered silver and a no frills decal layout (literally just changed the text from my Aphrodite build). Have some 1900 knobs coming from Tayda today hopefully I’ll swap these out for. 0170D117-C5D7-4AEC-BD5B-E8ABAE20E919.jpeg B67E3DF1-3336-4C33-831F-4ED993C341C9.jpeg
 
Hello,

I think I’ve had this board made and not in an enclosure yet for almost a month and a half now. My initial impression when I just had the board running through a breadboard to my amp was Luke warm at best. Didn’t seem too inspiring. I played around with swapping some diodes around ended up with the stock selection couple 1n34a 1n270 and a 4148. I’d be curious exactly how those are arranged though. I assume how it’s on the board it’s symmetrical with 1 34 with the 270 and 1 34 with the 4148. Anyways. I was running it into a little super champ x2 amp with my strat and was not overly impressed prior to boxing it. I boxed it up a couple days ago and have been playing through a little modded epi valve junior head I picked up on market place. So plugged it in there, and was pretty surprised was very happy with it. Thought it was odd so I grabbed the fender and ran it through that again and it seemed to lose a little something. Still sounds like a pretty good overdrive but def responds better to my ears on the other amp. Has a lot of versatility which is something I’ve found I appreciate a lot in overdrives of late. I am doing some testing and this may replace my timmy ish pedal on my board.

Build was very straight forward no issues. I’ve ran it at both 18v and 9V both work well. Went with some rattlecan hammered silver and a no frills decal layout (literally just changed the text from my Aphrodite build). Have some 1900 knobs coming from Tayda today hopefully I’ll swap these out for. View attachment 38610View attachment 38611
The more I play mine the more I like it. It works well across a lot of guitar and pickup types. It also stacks well for me with other drives or boosts.
 
Does it matter what 1N34A to use D9E D9B shottky?
I have a few 34a’s from @StompBoxParts and they worked great. You could probably use any germ in the .3-.4 vf range and would sound the same I imagine. I tried all 270’s and all those red cathode ones from smallbear but didn’t try any shottky’s. I also tried all 4148’s and lost a bit of the hairiness of the clipping I didn’t like it as much.
 
The more I play mine the more I like it. It works well across a lot of guitar and pickup types. It also stacks well for me with other drives or boosts.
Yes it does stack very well which is what I’m leaning towards it as. First od in the chain, ran it into both my Aphrodite and blue Steele and liked it. Are you running it at 9 or 18?
 
I have a few 34a’s from @StompBoxParts and they worked great. You could probably use any germ in the .3-.4 vf range and would sound the same I imagine. I tried all 270’s and all those red cathode ones from smallbear but didn’t try any shottky’s. I also tried all 4148’s and lost a bit of the hairiness of the clipping I didn’t like it as much.
I think I wound up using A real 270 and in place of the 34a‘s I used the ITT red banda from Smallbear. I absolutely love those for a 1n34 substitute. As I recall they all measured in the golden range” on my tester. (i have to go back and read my own build report…hahah)
 
I think I wound up using A real 270 and in place of the 34a‘s I used the ITT red banda from Smallbear. I absolutely love those for a 1n34 substitute. As I recall they all measured in the golden range” on my tester. (i have to go back and read my own build report…hahah)
Interesting the red bands I’ve tested so far test more like a 270. I don’t recall if the 270 I ended up using is the one you sent me or one of the ones I got from stompbox parts. I think one thing going on here is the vf comes into play a bit as it’s going for difference in between the two pairs. But I am just guessing.
 
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Great looking build! Hammertone grey looks awesome!

The 1n34a's we stock are the same ones that are in the original pedal. There are no 1n270's in the real thing.
Interesting. I ended up following the bom for the pcb from here pretty happy with it, wonder if the one Robert got had a 1n34a that measured low or why it had a 270 in there. Anyways. Sounds great to me like that.
 
D3 looked and tested similar to other 1N270's I have here and was obviously "different" from the other two 1N34A's, but germanium specs can be all over the place, so if you say it's 1N34A I certainly won't argue. :)

It's also entirely possible my 1N270's are mislabeled, I don't claim to be an expert on mojo components. (or much anything else for that matter) :ROFLMAO:

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germanium specs can be all over the place
True! Your 1n270 may measure exactly the same as that double black banded diode, and I think any old ge will get the job done just fine. Honestly, you having another diode that measures close is more useful information than what I have and should be left as is for the project.

The box had a different number on it…but they get tested for a particular Vf at a particular current at a particular temperature. I don’t have access to any of those specific details so the mystery remains.
 
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