Pro-10 Overdrive build

It looks like you have an original one too--notice any difference or is your spot on?

I'm about to order stuff for a Pro-10 build and am going for the same clone look. Do you happen to know if the pointer knobs you used are 24mm or 29mm wide?
 
It sounds very similar. With part tolerances and knob placement, you can get them to sound spot on. I am noticing a little noise when I play the blue side that doesn't exist on the original. I also have the Pro-10 blue pedal and didn't experience the noise on that one.

I built two PRO-10s dual overdrives and they both do the same thing. So, it is either a bad batch of components or something else. I will have to break out the oscilloscope and try to track the noise down.
 
@Dan0h I built a second one last night and Tayda has these rubber Pot dust covers and I was able to use those for the two pots under the 1/4 inch jacks.
 
The TL0701s and TLO702s I got from Tayda were good and didn't have any noise. I forget the supplier I got the other ones from, but those ones were bad. I went through all of the ones from the other supplier and they all had that noise problem. @spi
 
The TL0701s and TLO702s I got from Tayda were good and didn't have any noise. I forget the supplier I got the other ones from, but those ones were bad. I went through all of the ones from the other supplier and they all had that noise problem. @spi
The whole fact Tayda exists amazes me. Don’t even consider that you can get a box from the other side of the planet in less than a week for $15. So crazy. Kudos Tayda.
 
Thanks for the info! Jacks can be tricky. I suspect that if the holes for the jacks were drilled further from the board it would have been less of an issue. I always drill the jack holes as close to the edge of the box as I can to leave room for the pots. That's usually around a 10mm centre from the edge of the enclosure. Still tricky for Neutriks and Switchcraft 11s but the Lumbergs usually fit easily.
 
Back
Top