Proposition PCB with best components build question

[drgonzo1969]

I just finished troubleshooting the Proposition distortion and the sound is everything I had hoped it would be (wish that happened with every circuit haha). I want to build another one for my dad but I want to try with the best components available to see the sonic difference if any. So I’ve watched some videos and read some threads. I’m thinking maybe Dale/Vishay resistors and Wima capacitors, neutrik I/Os. What suggestions do you guys have?

 

[Paradox916]

That doesn’t matter, it will only sound different because of the tolerance %, unless you physically measure and match every component. wima caps from tayda are further of the mark than the cheaper one I have found, this of course is just my opinion and what I have personally experienced…. Mojo = , I would focus your efforts on the time you put into it rather than the money you throw at it.

 

[Betty Wont]

That doesn’t matter, it will only sound different because of the tolerance %, unless you physically measure and match every component. wima caps from tayda are further of the mark than the cheaper one I have found, this of course is just my opinion and what I have personally experienced…. Mojo = , I would focus your efforts on the time you put into it rather than the money you throw at it.

100% this^^^^.
Electrons can’t read brand names. Focus on making clean repeatable work.

 

[drgonzo1969]

Heard that. Same with IC’s?

 

[Betty Wont]

Heard that. Same with IC’s?

Go with what you can get from your favorite reputable source. Especially if you’re making a distortion or fuzz. That’s not about Fidelity.

 

[Laundryroom David]

If you want to make a pedal for your dad using expensive components, that’s cool. Just don’t expect the more expensive components to translate into a pedal that sounds fancier. I built my dad a little box and side table years ago. The box nests on top and I did it in a very expensive way. Quartersawn white oak, hand cut mortise and tenon, dovetail joints, the whole thing. It’s no better at being a fuckin box and table than a milk crate with a cigar box on top but it was special to build and give to him.

 

[Laundryroom David]

Go with what you can get from your favorite reputable source. Especially if you’re making a distortion or fuzz. That’s not about Fidelity.

I’m always a little iffy on OPA2134 in a dirt box for this reason lol

 

[Erik S]

I fully believe it doesn’t matter, and yet, every time I see a build report full of pretty red wimas, I get a little capacitor envy.

 

[Harry Klippton]

If you're the kind of person that has to do it just to find out, go ahead and satisfy your curiosity. But I can guarantee you everyone who's telling you there's no difference is trustworthy and has built a lot of good shit.

 

[drgonzo1969]

If you're the kind of person that has to do it just to find out, go ahead and satisfy your curiosity. But I can guarantee you everyone who's telling you there's no difference is trustworthy and has built a lot of good shit.

At the end of the day, the goal is an awesome pedal for my dad so if taking more time and auditing all the normal components for closer tolerances gets me there, i'm all for it. My dad isn't going to open it up and ask where the wimas at.

 

[Nic]

I like how those wima looks... but after measuring a bunch yesterday for my current build, cheap gray ones had better accuracy.

 

[Locrian99]

Agree.

I do think it’s worth spending a little more for your I/o jacks and switches though. I usually don’t for my builds but anything I’m building for someone else I’ll buy a brand name 3pdt and nicer jacks. I figure if mine break I can replace easy enough and never had a problem with them

 

[andare]

I'm a nobody but nobody enough to know that any differences I hear or perceive are due to circuits being tested on breadboards, which are always nosiier than grounded pedals.

I second the recommendation to put a lot of care into the build and the looks.
Make sure you bias everything properly, route the wires in a clean way, use high quality mechanical parts, a cool LED bezel and enclosure.

 

[Erik S]

I realized pretty early that the cheapest knobs tend to look and feel crappy. I’ve settled on stuff from SBP mostly in the $1 range, but there’s a whole world of spendy knobs out there if you’re looking to fancy it up.

 

[jwin615]

Electrolytics, especially in the signal path are worth the extra 20 cents to upgrade, imo. Not just because of the snake oil and toan but because they are the weak link. They will fail first in a good build.
Elna, Panasonic or at least nichicons.
In power duties, go for 130c rated.
There are audio grade caps out there that, depending on the value, don't add much more. But, in a dirt pedal, you likely won't notice a difference in a low ear nichincon and an audio grade Panna.

Otherwise, I'm tayda box caps all the way unless I'm doing something "period correct".
I'm getting to the age where my mortality is coming in view. If I gift someone something, I want it to work as long as it can.
Also, don't be afraid to overvolt the lytics if there is room available, again, especially in power related areas. A 50v 103c cap in a black pedal enclosure on an outdoor stage in July has a better chance of a longer life than a 15v one.
My .02, for as little as it's worth.