CONTEST Protoboards have landed...

CONTEST
Big Monk said:
Ordered my board today!

Now I need to put a Tayda parts list together for my Protoboard and my Aion Ampeg Scrambler.

That is unless @PedalPCB has an Ampeg Scrambler board in the works, and then I’ll hold out. 😉
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If you have trouble finding the 3.3v VRs, let me send you the fuse and both VRs.
 
Big Monk said:
I have to figure out a solid way to incporate my #1 super secret breadboard hack: The ground test port.

Ever try and tweak a trim pot while precariously balancing the red and black test leads from your multimeter? I have a black test jack mounted on the side of my “Prototyper” breadboard/enclosure rig.

I can probably just fit it to a spare term block from the pots and use it there.
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Use an alligator clip and an unused ground pin.
 
I'll take a long cut lead, bend it in a U and stick both ends in one of the ground bars. Makes a loop for clipping meter or scope ground leads.
Or get jumper with a female conn on one end, put a banana plug on the other end. Straight from protoboard header pins to meter.
 
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Just got mine (and a top jacks drill guide) thanks to the spectacular @fig and his “Mark It Donnie” contest! I was actually working on cleaning up my workspace right when this showed up— how convenient! I’ll have to get this to the front of the build queue.

Quick question: the large-ish hole below the 100μ and 10μ electrolytics— that’s an additional hole for a stand-off, in addition to the four in the corners of the board, right?
 
Yup, and the holes beneath the breadboard spots are available as well. I use them to attach a breadboard-backer so you can change out the boards if needed. I don't have it assembled yet or I'd put up a pic.
 
Big Monk said:
That can also be for an LED as well.

Quick hack: Last night I took some spare metal Male-Female standoffs and found the female portion will accept bog standard Crybaby feet and screws. The Male end can then be bolted to the holes on the Protoboard. I had 2 of each at 3/8" and 5/8" tall so it gives me a little incline.
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Nice!
 
The original design for the ProtoBoard had contact traces along the bus lines of the breadboards.

The idea was that you could peel the adhesive backing off the breadboards and then use small screws to secure them tightly to the ProtoBoard. There were pinheaders along the edges that actually connected to the bus lines of the breadboards, no jumper wires needed.

It was great, in theory.... in reality it wasn't extremely reliable because there are a few different versions of the MB-102 with different mounting hole patterns with no way to distinguish between them without blindly ordering. Also manufacturing tolerances made the contacts between the breadboards/ProtoBoard unreliable. When it worked it was excellent.... when it worked....

I never removed the mounting holes under the breadboards because technically if you're lucky enough to get the right MB-102 you can still mount it with screws if you want to.
 
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Big Monk said:
As if we didn’t have enough snake oil to swim through….
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I'm not saying I have any scientific evidence to back this up, but you wouldn't believe how much better your circuit sounds on one of these O.G. ProtoBoards. There was magic in that copper.
 
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Only 4 you say....

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That's me on the right...not sure who the ugly one is,,,
 
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