Seabed Delay Major Sound DRop

[l_elu]

Hello All, so where do I even begin this is gonna be a interesting one, hopefully we can trouble shoot it. I created the Seabed Delay Pedal, got it all boxed up but forgot to actually solder the stomp to the stomp pcb but everything else was connected. When the guitar is in bypass mode I get a full bypass guitar sound, and moving the pot controls does nothing. when I go ahead and activate the pedal, the volume drops to like 20%. All the controls still work for the effects it seems like they are just operating at 20%. If I crank the amp all the way up it gives me a beautiful delay that I would love to play around with, I just don't want to deactivate the pedal and the roof come off my house from having the amp cranked full blast.
On to the trouble shooting, so I went around and tried to re-solder most spots that I cant access. I replaced both ic chips and the transistor. nothing. So then i went and double checked all the resistors and all matched the value that the pcb called for. Double checked all the caps that were not sandwiched together( I always try and put the identification number on the outside) looks like they are correct but haven't confirmed all. Next step was to get all the reading:
IC2 PT2399
Pin 1: 4.92
Pin 2: 2.48
Pin 3: 0
Pin 4: .02
Pin 5: 2.57
Pin 6: 2.49
Pin 7: .28
Pin 8: .87
Pin 9: 2.49
Pin 10: 2.49
Pin 11: 2.49
Pin 12: 2.49
Pin 13: 2.49
Pin 14: 2.49
Pin 15: 2.49
Pin 16: 2.49


IC1 TL072
Pin 1: 4.10
Pin 2: 4.10
Pin 3: 4.08
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 8.20
Pin 6: 4.10
Pin 7: 4.10
Pin 8: 4.08

IC3 78L05
Pin 1: 8.20
Pin 2: 0
Pin 3: 4.98

 

[Mcknib]

If you're still trying to find where you loose volume

First thing I'd check

The wet and dry are mixed IC1.2 wet level check R15, dry R4 check both these resistors have good solder joints or probe both side's of R4 and 15 to see if signal volume changes R4 right side as you look at your image looks like that solder joint may be dry

Then

Turn level all the way down that should stop or almost stop wet signal

Probe IC1.1 pin 1 dry signal out as @PJS has said previously, then turn level all the way up probe level lug 2 compare the two signals that should let you know whether the volume loss is wet or dry.

Then turn level down probe pin 7 IC1.2 then with level maxed same again to see whether volume increases or decreases when adding the wet signal, one is usually a slightly higher volume anyway, but it may be more noticeable if the dry's too low

If it still isn't right probe the whole circuit as already said you should be able to hear the volume dropping

If you look here page 2 the magnetron delay section is more or less the same, a few different values, different layout etc but the dual op amp IC1.1 and 2 and PT2399 do the same thing, so you can follow audio using the audio path image

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/magnetron-delay-problem.4338/page-2

 

[l_elu]

So I get sound from the following: R1,R2,R4,R15. IC1.1 pin 1.

IC1 pin 7 does not have sound. I rush it least night after 16 hours of work so I’m gonna test it again. Didn’t know if we gather any info from these results or not but doesn’t hurt to share

 

[music6000]

This is the results of the continuity test. Yellow are connections when effect is on.

Is This Is How It's Wired?

 

[l_elu]

Yes but the PCBs negative and voltage are in the places for the battery connections

 

[music6000]

Hello All, so where do I even begin this is gonna be a interesting one, hopefully we can trouble shoot it. I created the Seabed Delay Pedal, got it all boxed up but forgot to actually solder the stomp to the stomp pcb but everything else was connected. When the guitar is in bypass mode I get a full bypass guitar sound, and moving the pot controls does nothing. when I go ahead and activate the pedal, the volume drops to like 20%. All the controls still work for the effects it seems like they are just operating at 20%. If I crank the amp all the way up it gives me a beautiful delay that I would love to play around with, I just don't want to deactivate the pedal and the roof come off my house from having the amp cranked full blast.
On to the trouble shooting, so I went around and tried to re-solder most spots that I cant access. I replaced both ic chips and the transistor. nothing. So then i went and double checked all the resistors and all matched the value that the pcb called for. Double checked all the caps that were not sandwiched together( I always try and put the identification number on the outside) looks like they are correct but haven't confirmed all. Next step was to get all the reading:
IC2 PT2399
Pin 1: 4.92
Pin 2: 2.48
Pin 3: 0
Pin 4: .02
Pin 5: 2.57
Pin 6: 2.49
Pin 7: .28
Pin 8: .87
Pin 9: 2.49
Pin 10: 2.49
Pin 11: 2.49
Pin 12: 2.49
Pin 13: 2.49
Pin 14: 2.49
Pin 15: 2.49
Pin 16: 2.49


IC1 TL072
Pin 1: 4.10
Pin 2: 4.10
Pin 3: 4.08
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 8.20
Pin 6: 4.10
Pin 7: 4.10
Pin 8: 4.08

IC3 78L05
Pin 1: 8.20
Pin 2: 0
Pin 3: 4.98

 

[l_elu]

IC1 TL072
Pin 1: 4.10
Pin 2: 4.10
Pin 3: 4.08
Pin 4: 0
Pin 5: 4.08
Pin 6: 4.10
Pin 7: 4.10
Pin 8: 8.20
Good catch!!

 

[Mcknib]

Not that this is anything to do with your fault just for info

The 3PDT board pad where @music6000 has PCB SW is for the centre anode pin to accommodate a bi colour LED normally with the CLR in place you'd get a voltage there with no CLR it'll be open circuit

The 3PDT board switch wiring is exactly the same as ppcb wire their 3PDTs the only difference is this uses either a standard or common anode bi colour LED (D1) so 3PDT lugs 4 and 6 are connected to the two bi colour LED cathodes with lug 5 to ground as normal standard LED would be anode middle cathode to the left pad, the pad with the white box would be the bypass colour with a bi colour LED

If your not placing your LED on the 3PDT pcb then you only need to ground it for the jacks you don't need to power it

I'm a little confused as far as I understand it you get effect but at a very low volume and have to crank your amp to hear it is that correct?

 

[music6000]

Yes but the PCBs negative and voltage are in the places for the battery connections

Does your LED work when in Active mode?

 

[l_elu]

Yes I definitely hear some type of a fact I can even hear the warmth that some people have been talking about on the forum but it is at a very low volume and I have to crank the amp.

 

[l_elu]

I didn’t have an LED light previously because I didn’t have the enclosure. But I just recently soldered one in, and I’m going to test now soon

 

[music6000]

I didn’t have an LED light previously because I didn’t have the enclosure. But I just recently soldered one in, and I’m going to test now soon

Cool, Can you confirm this Resistor :

 

[l_elu]

I can confirm that R18 is 33 ohms. Sorry with my poor communication, I I been stuffed with work. I was also waiting on my order which includes stomp switches. Replaced the current switch and board. New board from pedalpcb and stomp switch from tayda. I’m getting a better effect sound but it’s still not close to dry signal. Going to preform another audio probe test tomorrow.