Triangulum boost doesn’t sound quite right

[harryl32]

I seem to be getting quite a “hollow” sound from my Triangulum boost and I’m wondering if anyone has encountered this problem before.

Also I’m aware of the bad solder joint on the pot, the pin is soldered to the pad on the other side of the pcb.

 

[music6000]

The damaged Pot pad is Leg 1 which goes to Ground so you could solder a piece of resistor leg from the leg to the Ground pad next to it.
You can Test for Continuity with the power unplugged to the pedal with your multimeter set to the continuity ''Beep'' function.
Just match the Colours in the Picture below with the probes.
No Beep, No connection!

Here is a Resistor Calculator to Test that you have the right resistors on your Build.
Click on Bands for 5 Bands

Resistor Calculator

Resistor Calculator is an App developed by CherryJourney to help the user find the value of a resistor.

resistor.cherryjourney.pt

The 4th Band is where most people make a mistake ie 10K is Red & 100K is Orange:

 

[harryl32]

The damaged Pot pad is Leg 1 which goes to Ground so you could solder a piece of resistor leg from the leg to the Ground pad next to it.
You can Test for Continuity with the power unplugged to the pedal with your multimeter set to the continuity ''Beep'' function.
Just match the Colours in the Picture below with the probes.
No Beep, No connection!

Here is a Resistor Calculator to Test that you have the right resistors on your Build.
Click on Bands for 5 Bands

Resistor Calculator

Resistor Calculator is an App developed by CherryJourney to help the user find the value of a resistor.

resistor.cherryjourney.pt

The 4th Band is where most people make a mistake ie 10K is Red & 100K is Orange:

View attachment 63890

Thank you very much for the reply, I won't be able to solder until I'm back at work after the new year but I'll try that solution and get back to you when I can. I'll check continuity and resistance soon.

 

[harryl32]

The damaged Pot pad is Leg 1 which goes to Ground so you could solder a piece of resistor leg from the leg to the Ground pad next to it.
You can Test for Continuity with the power unplugged to the pedal with your multimeter set to the continuity ''Beep'' function.
Just match the Colours in the Picture below with the probes.
No Beep, No connection!

Here is a Resistor Calculator to Test that you have the right resistors on your Build.
Click on Bands for 5 Bands

Resistor Calculator

Resistor Calculator is an App developed by CherryJourney to help the user find the value of a resistor.

resistor.cherryjourney.pt

The 4th Band is where most people make a mistake ie 10K is Red & 100K is Orange:

View attachment 63890

Hi, I'm getting continuity on all highlighted points as well as the right colour codes.

I will say however, while R16 is the correct resistor at 20K, my multimeter is reading 6K instead which I found pretty weird.

 

[music6000]

Hi, I'm getting continuity on all highlighted points as well as the right colour codes.

I will say however, while R16 is the correct resistor at 20K, my multimeter is reading 6K instead which I found pretty weird.

You can't get accurate readings when resistors are soldered into the PCB, they are usually in series or parallel with another resistor or component wiich gives a false reading.
As long as your bands match the Resistor Calculator, it should be correct!

 

[music6000]

Have you cleaned the back of the Board, this can confirm if you have any debris that might be causing your issue!
Look at the flux around your wires going into the top of the PCB, they need to be tidier.
This is important on any build!
It's common for the flux to interact with other components & mess with the circuit!!!

 

[harryl32]

You can't get accurate readings when resistors are soldered into the PCB, they are usually in series or parallel with another resistor or component wiich gives a false reading.
As long as your bands match the Resistor Calculator, it should be correct!

Yeah all resistor values are correct.

I'll unsolder and tidy those wires up when I solder leg 1 of the pot to ground.
Also I didn't use any flux when soldering I think those patches are where the plastic has melted a little bit or the solder has spat.

I've also attached a picture of the back of the PCB, it seems okay to me but a second opinion would be nice

Thanks,
Harry

 

[music6000]

Yeah all resistor values are correct.

I'll unsolder and tidy those wires up when I solder leg 1 of the pot to ground.
Also I didn't use any flux when soldering I think those patches are where the plastic has melted a little bit or the solder has spat.

I've also attached a picture of the back of the PCB, it seems okay to me but a second opinion would be nice

Thanks,
Harry

It needs to be cleaned!
I use CRC Contact Cleaner in a Spray can, just spray it on & it floods the PCB ,No toothbrush required.
Others use a cheaper method which is Isopryl which is watered down alcohol with a toothbrush, time consuming & not as good!
When cleaned, you will be able to see that you have Cold solder joints & if any bridging may be present.
Your resistors have quite a few on the component side.

These are classed as Cold Solder joints, if the pad has a crater or you can see inside rim of the pad , not enough heat has caused lack of penetration!
The one on the left is perfect, the one on the right is a Cold Solder joint:

 

[music6000]

When I say flux, I am referring to Solder with flux core in it, I use 1.00 mm 60/40 flux core Solder & a cheap 40w Soldering Iron.
I clean the tip & retin it before each build & use a damp sponge to keep it clean at all times!