owlexifry
Well-known member
not sure why i hadn’t seen this circuit/build earlier. i guess not that many have built this one.
but then one day i came across a vero build i saw on kaisertronics’ ig post.
did a search and looked like a handful of folks here have built it and done so very very well.
i was super keen on building one of these, and i almost went ahead with ordering a Hooke board from DEFX.
but that bypass switch business going on there just put me off.
I couldn’t think of a reason why the chuck bones simply relay bypass i’ve used previously wouldn’t work, so i went ahead with plans to use that and do it all on vero.
there’s a couple tricky parts, particularly the TDA7052B.
gonna have to thank @iamjackslackof for the tip on sourcing a TDA7052B. it’s an NXP. i ordered one and it works
ordered the TLE2426, the accutronics tanks (medium & long), and 1590J from banzaimusic.
otherwise everything else is pretty straight forward.
during assembly, because of space constraints, i initially thought i would have to mount the tank directly onto the lid with screws through the tank’s mounting holes, so i carefully drilled holes and tapped the screws into the lid so i wouldn’t have to use nuts (it’s possible and it works). similar approach with the jewel lens.
i also had some pink foam carefully peeled from a Tayda enclosure bag slipped under the tank for cushioning.
i tried this with the medium tank and fired it up and it sounded pretty good.
i wasn’t confident this was the best way to do it. directly mounting the tank to screws in the lid would be prone to vibration right?. it was bugging me, i was losing sleep over it, so i decided to try and have a go at using some pickup mount springs.
drilled and tapped some new holes in the lid, and this time I mounted the long tank and prayed to the gods that the tank would still fit.
it did
did some more things with the pink tayda foam to combat contact noise and vibration, and called it a day.
slipped on some old cupcake knobs that I used to have on my SLO 40W amp. i guess they kinda fit the Fender 6G15 vibe.
this was my first go at actually using the FX loop in my SLO100 build. Seems to function pretty well.
it’s definitely not as beautifully well engineered/constructed as some others here have done, but it sounds great, so overall i’m pretty happy.
just x1 concern / disappointment:
it does make a bit of a quiet but noticeable seedy buzz/humming noise, that isn't there in bypass.
here's the strangest part - it's noticeable on the clean (normal) channel (and the little 5W combo), but hardly noticeable at all on the overdrive channel...
i guess that's the downfall of vero. and to be fair the components on the board are pretty close to the tank. i probably could have done a better job of positioning the board away from the tank in the large 1590J, but with a vero bypass board as well, my routing options were getting very limited. ah well. at least i didn't have to post a troubleshooting thread
but then one day i came across a vero build i saw on kaisertronics’ ig post.
did a search and looked like a handful of folks here have built it and done so very very well.
i was super keen on building one of these, and i almost went ahead with ordering a Hooke board from DEFX.
but that bypass switch business going on there just put me off.
I couldn’t think of a reason why the chuck bones simply relay bypass i’ve used previously wouldn’t work, so i went ahead with plans to use that and do it all on vero.
there’s a couple tricky parts, particularly the TDA7052B.
gonna have to thank @iamjackslackof for the tip on sourcing a TDA7052B. it’s an NXP. i ordered one and it works
ordered the TLE2426, the accutronics tanks (medium & long), and 1590J from banzaimusic.
otherwise everything else is pretty straight forward.
during assembly, because of space constraints, i initially thought i would have to mount the tank directly onto the lid with screws through the tank’s mounting holes, so i carefully drilled holes and tapped the screws into the lid so i wouldn’t have to use nuts (it’s possible and it works). similar approach with the jewel lens.
i also had some pink foam carefully peeled from a Tayda enclosure bag slipped under the tank for cushioning.
i tried this with the medium tank and fired it up and it sounded pretty good.
i wasn’t confident this was the best way to do it. directly mounting the tank to screws in the lid would be prone to vibration right?. it was bugging me, i was losing sleep over it, so i decided to try and have a go at using some pickup mount springs.
drilled and tapped some new holes in the lid, and this time I mounted the long tank and prayed to the gods that the tank would still fit.
it did
did some more things with the pink tayda foam to combat contact noise and vibration, and called it a day.
slipped on some old cupcake knobs that I used to have on my SLO 40W amp. i guess they kinda fit the Fender 6G15 vibe.
this was my first go at actually using the FX loop in my SLO100 build. Seems to function pretty well.
it’s definitely not as beautifully well engineered/constructed as some others here have done, but it sounds great, so overall i’m pretty happy.
just x1 concern / disappointment:
it does make a bit of a quiet but noticeable seedy buzz/humming noise, that isn't there in bypass.
here's the strangest part - it's noticeable on the clean (normal) channel (and the little 5W combo), but hardly noticeable at all on the overdrive channel...
i guess that's the downfall of vero. and to be fair the components on the board are pretty close to the tank. i probably could have done a better job of positioning the board away from the tank in the large 1590J, but with a vero bypass board as well, my routing options were getting very limited. ah well. at least i didn't have to post a troubleshooting thread
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