War Scythe Cleft Mod: Diode Question

[blueimpala]

I'm building a war scythe and I'm going to socket D2 and D5 in case I ever want to try the cleft mod. Only problem is I can't tell from the PCB or the PCB diagram which 2 of the four LEDs are D2 and D5. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you for your help!

 

[Mcknib]

They both connect to one side of C18, D2 A (anode) and D5 K (cathode) use your meter to continuity check them

 

[blueimpala]

Well that makes perfect sense. Definitely learning electronics as I go, so I appreciate the prompting to be a more active problem solver. That was just the tip I needed. Thanks again!

 

[Mcknib]

Well that makes perfect sense. Definitely learning electronics as I go, so I appreciate the prompting to be a more active problem solver. That was just the tip I needed. Thanks again!

Haha didn't mean it to sound like prompting on being more active apologies if it came across like that, it was just a quick response

 

[blueimpala]

Haha didn't mean it to sound like prompting on being more active apologies if it came across like that, it was just a quick response

Oh, it's no problem - and thank you! It was just the help I needed. For those finding this thread later with the same question, these two diodes are D2 and D5:

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Bear in mind that changing D2 & D5 from LEDs to Si diodes will reduce the volume. Should not be a big deal since there is plenty of gain in the last stage.

Check the collector voltages on Q4 and Q5. You want to be above 3V. If those transistors are too leaky, the sound will suffer. Legit 2N1308s should be fine.

On the topic of leakage, you will want to socket Q2 because you need the right amount of leakage in that transistor. Too little leakage and the gating is extreme.

 

[blueimpala]

Bear in mind that changing D2 & D5 from LEDs to Si diodes will reduce the volume. Should not be a big deal since there is plenty of gain in the last stage.

Check the collector voltages on Q4 and Q5. You want to be above 3V. If those transistors are too leaky, the sound will suffer. Legit 2N1308s should be fine.

On the topic of leakage, you will want to socket Q2 because you need the right amount of leakage in that transistor. Too little leakage and the gating is extreme.

Hi Chuck - Thanks for weighing in!

Are you saying that the collector voltages on Q4 and Q5 should be above 3v in general, or specifically for the cleft mod?

I do indeed have legit 2N1308s as well as legit AC176s. This is my first time working with vintage GE transistors however, so I'm definitely proceeding with caution (everything will be socketed and I have several of each type to pick through if necessary). I actually got a lot of good advice from your previous posts while perusing another thread (https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/war-scythe-transistor-question.2423/#post-22681) so thank you for posting all of that!