Water slide decal question

[megatrav]

Hey folks,

I have been experimenting with using water slides on a recent build. I am using an inkjet printer and doing a couple heavy coats of krylon clear so that the color doesn’t run.
The color isn’t running, however. No matter how well I try to flatten it on the enclosure, the sides and corners aren’t staying flat. Is there a method I should try or do I need to add more clear coat?
The lines aren’t hanging over as you can see in the image.
Any advice is appreciated!

 

[ITG6]

Not sure there is anyway to make them stick on curves, I struggled with that as well. Finally just started making them a bit smaller so everything stayed on the flat surface.

 

[megatrav]

Not sure there is anyway to make them stick on curves, I struggled with that as well. Finally just started making them a bit smaller so everything stayed on the flat surface.

The thing is, I thought I had it so that it was only on the flat part. I may try again by making them a little smaller.
Thanks for the reply!

 

[SYLV9ST9R]

I know one thing I did was to hold the decal face down on the backplate while putting it in water. It really helped for the decal not to roll up on itself and stay flat. Might help you.

 

[megatrav]

I know one thing I did was to hold the decal face down on the backplate while putting it in water. It really helped for the decal not to roll up on itself and stay flat. Might help you.

Pro tips! Thank you.
I made them slightly smaller and made sure all the text was scaled. I am also going to do a third layer of clear this time.
I am pretty proud of the image overall. I hope I can make it turn out good!

 

[dlazzarini]

Hey folks,

I have been experimenting with using water slides on a recent build. I am using an inkjet printer and doing a couple heavy coats of krylon clear so that the color doesn’t run.
The color isn’t running, however. No matter how well I try to flatten it on the enclosure, the sides and corners aren’t staying flat. Is there a method I should try or do I need to add more clear coat?
The lines aren’t hanging over as you can see in the image.
Any advice is appreciated!

View attachment 11663

Try a few lighter coats instead of heavy. I use krypton crystal clear acrylic. It’s hard to say what’s causing it. It my be the brand of paper. I’ve had certain brands that wouldn’t stick at all. When it’s happened to me it’s either been shitty paper or I clear coated to thick.

 

[peccary]

Are you warming the water first? I've noticed that the water temp really has an effect on the film and how cooperative it is. Too hot or too cold can cause some issues.

 

[Barry]

Easy on the clear coat, been a while since I used an inkjet, but as I recall it only takes a slight misting to set the ink

 

[megatrav]

I will try to reply in order:

-I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
-This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
If that isn’t great paper, please let me know what you’ve had success with.
-I am using warm, not hot water. I’ve been letting the paper soak for about 60 seconds before taking it out.
I am able to get it flat on the enclosure and get most bubbles out, but when I come back to check on it, the corners and sides have come up.
I am also using Krylon Crystal Clear. I tried Minwax Polycrylic as well but it did not turn out as well as the Krylon.

Hopefully the lighter coats and slightly smaller paper will work out.
Thanks for all the replies and advice!

 

[peccary]

I will try to reply in order:

-I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
-This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
If that isn’t great paper, please let me know what you’ve had success with.
-I am using warm, not hot water. I’ve been letting the paper soak for about 60 seconds before taking it out.
I am able to get it flat on the enclosure and get most bubbles out, but when I come back to check on it, the corners and sides have come up.
I am also using Krylon Crystal Clear. I tried Minwax Polycrylic as well but it did not turn out as well as the Krylon.

Hopefully the lighter coats and slightly smaller paper will work out.
Thanks for all the replies and advice!

I was replying thinking you were talking about the no film waterslide, so my comment may or may not may not be relevant. Sorry about that. I've not used the regular waterslide other than for models, but I figure this is different than that.

 

[Gordo]

Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds. You can find it at a hobby shop. It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol. It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes. Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.

 

[megatrav]

Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds. You can find it at a hobby shop. It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol. It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes. Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.

Thanks for the tip. I was happy to find that it’s inexpensive as well!

 

[Gordo]

Nice part is you can buy a cheap paintbrush and paint the stuff over the decal once it's in place and hit it a few times if necessary. This is a fairly extreme example but is a large decal done with a color laser over a pebble ivory powdercoat.

 

[peccary]

Something that might help is what plastic modelers use on their builds. You can find it at a hobby shop. It's by Microscale Industries and it's called Micro Sol. It softens the decal and helps it conform to curves and irregular shapes. Works like a champ on pebbled powdercoating as well.

I did use Micro Sol and Micro Set when I was doing models. That stuff really does help quite a bit.

 

[megatrav]

Very cool! I purchased some Micro Sol (not the Micro Set) I am going to experiment with some lighter clear coats today and I should be able to test out the decal in a few days.
It seems like this stuff might be similar to mod podge?

 

[megatrav]

Nice part is you can buy a cheap paintbrush and paint the stuff over the decal once it's in place and hit it a few times if necessary. This is a fairly extreme example but is a large decal done with a color laser over a pebble ivory powdercoat.

Those look really cool!

 

[EGRENIER]

I will try to reply in order:

-I will try lighter costs. I went pretty heavy handed because I was worried about the ink running.
-This is the paper I’m using: Water slide decal paper clear
If that isn’t great paper, please let me know what you’ve had success with.
-I am using warm, not hot water. I’ve been letting the paper soak for about 60 seconds before taking it out.
I am able to get it flat on the enclosure and get most bubbles out, but when I come back to check on it, the corners and sides have come up.
I am also using Krylon Crystal Clear. I tried Minwax Polycrylic as well but it did not turn out as well as the Krylon.

Hopefully the lighter coats and slightly smaller paper will work out.
Thanks for all the replies and advice!

I haven't done tons, but with 4 successful waterslide graphics, here's my advices:
- Lukewarm water is what you want
- You shouldn't need much more than 15-20 seconds in water, longer may dissolve the waterslide adhesive.
- Always clean your enclosure first and then don't touch it with your finger, a bit of finger grease could create your issue. Specially if you hold your enclosure by the edge where your waterslide tend not to stick
- I use a small soft paint brush to remove bubble and slowly dry out the surface. I first wet the brush and then just dab it on my jeans/t-shirt to remove excess water. Every time I make a pass to flatten the water slide, I dab it again. The brush should slowly soak up the extra water of the slide and get you to an almost dry surface.
- Make sure you brush from the inside to the outside and that all edges a fully flat to the enclosure.
- Let the slide dry thoroughly before applying any type of lacquer.

my 2 cents...

 

[Gordo]

+1^

 

[megatrav]

I haven't done tons, but with 4 successful waterslide graphics, here's my advices:
- Lukewarm water is what you want
- You shouldn't need much more than 15-20 seconds in water, longer may dissolve the waterslide adhesive.
- Always clean your enclosure first and then don't touch it with your finger, a bit of finger grease could create your issue. Specially if you hold your enclosure by the edge where your waterslide tend not to stick
- I use a small soft paint brush to remove bubble and slowly dry out the surface. I first wet the brush and then just dab it on my jeans/t-shirt to remove excess water. Every time I make a pass to flatten the water slide, I dab it again. The brush should slowly soak up the extra water of the slide and get you to an almost dry surface.
- Make sure you brush from the inside to the outside and that all edges a fully flat to the enclosure.
- Let the slide dry thoroughly before applying any type of lacquer.

my 2 cents...

That sounds pretty sound. I will pick up a little paint brush this week and give that a shot.
I am still trying to get the clear coat right. I did lighter coats and the paint ran so I may need to do one more coat before I try to put them in water

 

[megatrav]

Also, I am using Krylon Colormaxx clear.. I tried some Minwax polycrylic but when it dried there were spots on the paper so I didn’t try it.
Is there something better I should try or is this one alright?