What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

jessenator said:
*fruitlessly plots to fit a Troglodyte into a 1590B*
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Meanwhile, I'm laying out boost circuits for 1590XX enclosures.
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Aleph Null said:
Got my wires crossed and replied to the wrong thread! I'm planning a twelve string tele build. Boot Strap pickups makes an alnico 3 set they call "original recipe".

This is what's actually on the workbench right now.
View attachment 109419
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Is this from JLC? That solder mask looks a bit sloppy over some of those pads. Take C11 for example. It’ll work, but not the best finish.
 
szukalski said:
Is this from JLC? That solder mask looks a bit sloppy over some of those pads. Take C11 for example. It’ll work, but not the best finish.
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It's a JLC board. I'd agree, their tolerances are usually adequate if not tight. If you have any suggestions for design rules/tolerances/constraint settings in CAD, I'd love to hear them. I've got most things set to be twice what their stated minimum is.
 
Aleph Null said:
It's a JLC board. I'd agree, their tolerances are usually adequate if not tight. If you have any suggestions for design rules/tolerances/constraint settings in CAD, I'd love to hear them. I've got most things set to be twice what their stated minimum is.
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I’d check the Gerbers and see what that solder mask is doing. It may something to do with the teardrop plugin. I don’t do them so I’m not sure if this is a known issue.

Do you run the clean up tracks and vias tool before generating prod files?
 
szukalski said:
ATtiny1616 love! These things are tiny. Here's a dual relay board for combo soft switch action!

View attachment 109423

All rocking. No boxing.

View attachment 109425

Some relay code to go along with your tea and scones.
github.com

GitHub - szukalski/sheepylove-mcu: Code for a MCU based relay

Code for a MCU based relay. Contribute to szukalski/sheepylove-mcu development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com github.com
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Have you considered using ATmedium1616 or maybe even ATbig16161? I think AThuge1616 would be overkill for sure.
 
szukalski said:
I’d check the Gerbers and see what that solder mask is doing. It may something to do with the teardrop plugin. I don’t do them so I’m not sure if this is a known issue.

Do you run the clean up tracks and vias tool before generating prod files?
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Looking again at the boards more closely, I think it was just a trick of the light. All the pads and keep-outs look fine to me. That said, I will be double checking my design rules.
 
jessenator said:
"Eyo, chaina, we need a part that no one can service"
"Say no more, fam"
"Also it needs to be so cheap so they buy a whole new product when it breaks"
"We gotchu, fam"
"Thanks chaina."
~every conversation for products made in the last 10–30 years
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Ekzachary.
 
szukalski said:
ATtiny1616 love! These things are tiny. Here's a dual relay board for combo soft switch action!

View attachment 109423

All rocking. No boxing.

View attachment 109425

Some relay code to go along with your tea and scones.
github.com

GitHub - szukalski/sheepylove-mcu: Code for a MCU based relay

Code for a MCU based relay. Contribute to szukalski/sheepylove-mcu development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com github.com
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Looking sweet!
What do you use for a programmer footprint? I've just been going with pogo pins and 3 pads at 2.54 spacing but I've been looking for better options.
 
I'll tell you what's about to be on my work bench.
I just ordered a paragon enclosure that I wanna do all the Court Jester mods to. When I build drill templates on Tayda I put 'check' in the name to remind me that they are work in progress.... y'know, as in check this before you get Tayda to drill it?
Guess who is going to be drilling 7 switch holes in his new enclosure when it arrives 🙃
 
Seriously, though @KR Sound, for a customer of course keep the thing as stock as possible.

For myself, there's room either side of the single-pot for the top-jacks, and I'd put in a small collet or similar to adapt an Alpha pot to the board/enclosure.
 
Feral Feline said:
Seriously, though @KR Sound, for a customer of course keep the thing as stock as possible.

For myself, there's room either side of the single-pot for the top-jacks, and I'd put in a small collet or similar to adapt an Alpha pot to the board/enclosure.
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Actually, I did find a small collet from something that helped fill the gap from the larger hole. Just handed it back to him today and he’s totally happy with it. Even gave him a nicer knob with a brass fitting in it.

IMG_6021.jpeg
 
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The Octoking is done! An Octavia with extra controls, it seems, DIP switches and all. It fixes my #1 complaint with some other octave fuzzes, which is that they're too thin for my taste. Also stacks really nicely with other drives, as long as vol and drive are low enough to not make cause too much gain or noise.

I didn't hear a huge difference between Vintage and Glass, but I think there is a small difference so it's probably working fine. Fat is clearly more bass though. I did have an issue on first boxing where both the clean and drive signals were cutting out when I wiggled the toggle switch, but instead of a bad switch it turned out that two different 1uF film caps had a cold solder joint. Thankfully the scientific process of "poke it with my finger" helped me find the culprits, and after resoldering those it seems to work without issues.

I wish I would have used a bigger white outline since some of the text is hard to read, but to be fair it's easy to guess and not that important in the end.
 
Fama said:
View attachment 109471
The Octoking is done! An Octavia with extra controls, it seems, DIP switches and all. It fixes my #1 complaint with some other octave fuzzes, which is that they're too thin for my taste. Also stacks really nicely with other drives, as long as vol and drive are low enough to not make cause too much gain or noise.

I didn't hear a huge difference between Vintage and Glass, but I think there is a small difference so it's probably working fine. Fat is clearly more bass though. I did have an issue on first boxing where both the clean and drive signals were cutting out when I wiggled the toggle switch, but instead of a bad switch it turned out that two different 1uF film caps had a cold solder joint. Thankfully the scientific process of "poke it with my finger" helped me find the culprits, and after resoldering those it seems to work without issues.

I wish I would have used a bigger white outline since some of the text is hard to read, but to be fair it's easy to guess and not that important in the end.
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Looks awesome. What I like to do when text overlays an image is to cur out that part of the image itself. I expand the text a millimeter or so, then use that to chop out the image instead of just relying on an outline.

Then you have the background color showing through or you can put a layer of white behind it. Here’s an example with “Volume” and “Tone”

Photoroom_20250426_121016.jpeg
 
KR Sound said:
Looks awesome. What I like to do when text overlays an image is to cur out that part of the image itself. I expand the text a millimeter or so, then use that to chop out the image instead of just relying on an outline.

Then you have the background color showing through or you can put a layer of white behind it. Here’s an example with “Volume” and “Tone”

View attachment 109473
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I do more or less the same thing, because I duplicate the text, expand the one that is "behind" a bit, turn it into white, and merge all the color layer parts into one layer. That layer is then duplicated and turned into the white spot color (more or less - if there's pure black then that gets removed before turning it all into the spot color.

But the point is that the white is also there in the color layer, so it ends up not being printed. Essentially same as cutting it out of the color layer, in my experience. Looking back at the file, the issue with this one was that I forgot to merge that white outline into the color layer and only put it in the white layer. So basically what you're saying, except I was planning to do it and forgot it in this case.
 
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