I finally designed a proper daughterboard (shield?) for my RockEngine, replacing the messy perfboard prototype. SO much better! Worthy of putting it into a new pickguard.
I finally designed a proper daughterboard (shield?) for my RockEngine, replacing the messy perfboard prototype. SO much better! Worthy of putting it into a new pickguard.
Pendulum and Beholder ...
... because the Chaos Machine takes up too much enclosure space (1590xx) on its own and you'll need at least a 1590xx for the Pendulum and Beholder. Once you build them, test their order and see if an order-switcher is worth adding.
DOD on DOD, ie 280 and Carcosa together. I'd probably want an order-switcher for sure on this one.
Not my workbench, per se, but I decided to take inventory before I pull the trigger on a Tayda run. I have WAAAAAY too many B-Taper pots. Kind of hard to tell in the pic, but they take up about 60% of my inventory. The small section on the right are C-Taper. A-Taper starts about 25% from the right and ends at about 40%.
Not my workbench, per se, but I decided to take inventory before I pull the trigger on a Tayda run. I have WAAAAAY too many B-Taper pots. Kind of hard to tell in the pic, but they take up about 60% of my inventory. The small section on the right are C-Taper. A-Taper starts about 25% from the right and ends at about 40%.
Pendulum and Beholder ...
... because the Chaos Machine takes up too much enclosure space (1590xx) on its own and you'll need at least a 1590xx for the Pendulum and Beholder. Once you build them, test their order and see if an order-switcher is worth adding.
DOD on DOD, ie 280 and Carcosa together. I'd probably want an order-switcher for sure on this one.
Ooh, I like the DOD/DOD pedal idea. I'll definitely have to do an order-switcher for that one. As for the Beholder/Pendulum, I like that ideas as well, but I'm going to need to see how the Beholder turns out first. There are only a few demos of it on the web and they're all fairly extreme (especially that Reverb one). I'm curious to find out if the reverb on its own gets along well with my playing.
Not my workbench, per se, but I decided to take inventory before I pull the trigger on a Tayda run. I have WAAAAAY too many B-Taper pots. Kind of hard to tell in the pic, but they take up about 60% of my inventory. The small section on the right are C-Taper. A-Taper starts about 25% from the right and ends at about 40%.
So this spring and first half of the summer was crap weather so I didn't get any cruising in and what little I did get was forcibly in the sun, as I couldn't put the top up and drive or the top would get blown back — last October while putting the Windsor away for the winter, the damn driver's side convertible-latch exploded (see below on grey towel to the far right).
The first car show of the '24 season was rainy/sunny/rainy off and on... I managed to sneak home during a break in the rain. Got in the local parade, and a show'n'shine night at the A&W — that's a paltry three events so far and I could count on one hand the number of times I went out just for a leisure drive.
This last Wednesday was a great highway cruise, 60km (37m) away, to see some buffalo in the middle of a heat wave. The car performed admirably, I pushed it hard on the 60km return trip and the motor got hot but didn't overheat — 'twas a shakedown for tomorrow's 100km cruise to a car-museum show.
The catch:
The 'vert's catch still needed fixing as it's 40% chance of rain in the forecast for tomorrow's show.
So I had to pillage the intact latch from my other car (far left on grey towel), and it goes in the hole to the left of the towel.
Here's the passenger side latch installed:
Working alone, the top kept going down and I had to keep raising it (switch on the dash) making it near impossible to work on the latch —
so I improvised:
The top just barely touches the garage-door opener, so I gently pushed it past the peak and then the top couldn't move back and down.
Two of the bolts for the latch-assembly are hidden by the top — obviously the latch is installed in the frame before the cloth-top is installed.
Just four bolts to put in, but with the top-material in the way ...
uninstalling the broken latch,
uninstalling its replacement (spare car's top is even tighter than the driver)
installing the replacement
took a few hours so as not to rip the top itself.
2am, I'm wiped. Was up at 6am today, need to get up at 6am (4 hours away) for the drive...
Thought I'd taken a pic of the final assembly installed ...
Oh, and the latch pivot is only pinned on one side instead of both sides, so it might not hold and could break again...
Hoping to squeeze in a pedal-build between now and the big car-show in August.
This has been on the back burner for far too long.. wait is that a 12f675 programmed with a momentary function you ask? Yup! this was a project that has a number of us involved in it, just have to dream up something to put on the box. Don’t put to much wait into the random loop noodling, I will try and incorporate this in a real demo hopefully.
My work in progress since coming back from Japan in April with some Toshiba germs. Creating the concept, art, and designing the fuzz circuit. Almost has come to fruition, just have to finish the off board wiring and plug in the transistors and ICs. I wanted to do it all perfboard P2P for added “fun”.
Atomic Breath (Tentacle octave up) into Germanium Radiation (high gain highly variable 4 Ge transistor fuzz) into Nuclear Pulse (Phase 45 with univibe switch).
And last week changed out the pickups on my Godin Freeway Classic from some H-sized P90s to Dimarzios. X2N (bridge), Air Norton S (middle), Liquifire (neck). Used a 20-tone wiring I found online with push-pull vol and tone and 5-way super switch. Upgraded jack to Puretone, locking auto cut D’Addario tuners, and Sprague black beauty tone cap I had laying around.
You, sir, are a complete madman and I applaud your efforts. I can't even imagine wiring up any of this stuff. I think you may have officially outed me as "old". Damn, when did I lose the desire for 20 tones