wire preference..

past wire discussions, I recall people talking about which coatings were less likely to melt when soldering.
That was the main point brought up earlier in the thread w/re: Teflon coated wire.

As far as its melting point, i can't say for sure on wire, since I haven't tried any yet, but 3D printer bowden tubes are Teflon, and the ones that come with a printer really cant handle setting extruder temps above ~230° C, higher quality ones maybe up to 250°C. But that's constant heat where it seats up against the top of the hot end.

Based on that, I'd wager small durations of 350–380°C (or whatever you solder at) might be okay, since Teflon, as I understand it doesn't curl up as immediately or profusely as PVC. But please correct that interpretation if it's off. It's the fumes from sumbliming(??) Teflon that are toxic as the real danger of temps.
 
Plus 1 on the GuitarPCB wire. IMO, it seems to be the same stuff that LoveMySwitches sells. GuitarPCB is often out of it and that's when I found out that LoveMySwitches appears to have the same 24 gauge pre-bond wire.

And with regard to wire strippers, I've been using this one wire stripper for over 40 years. I adjusted the set screw once back when I got it and have not needed to adjust it since.

View attachment 66463
I have had that one for around 30 yrs, it is beat up and jangly and dull. I need to get a new one.
Pb
 
What I'd like to know from the teflon users is what sorts of insulation-strippers they've used. I've got a spring-loaded green-handled machine to squeeze, and it works fine on most all wire I've used, but haven't tried Teflon yet.
Stripax: like so: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-1113-Stripax-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B0006BHCFO

For Teflon you ideally want the carbide cartridges, prepare for sticker shock. Still cheap compared to a proper pro grade heated production appliance with a (mandatory) good ventilation system though.

Not a fan of solid wire at all except for tube heaters, and totally don't get the hate for pre-tinning, but vive la difference!
 
Stripax: like so: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-1113-Stripax-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B0006BHCFO

For Teflon you ideally want the carbide cartridges, prepare for sticker shock. Still cheap compared to a proper pro grade heated production appliance with a (mandatory) good ventilation system though.

Not a fan of solid wire at all except for tube heaters, and totally don't get the hate for pre-tinning, but vive la difference!
My issue with strippers and ptfe has always been the second strip after cutting off the spool. It just slide the insulation. Especially bad on short runs. Since the insulation doesn't melt easily, it doesn't bond that well either. Do these handle that? Only one review mentions ptfe
"These work really well on most types of wire however if you are trying to strip PTFE or any other very durable jacketed wire then these will not work."
 
My issue with strippers and ptfe has always been the second strip after cutting off the spool. It just slide the insulation. Especially bad on short runs. Since the insulation doesn't melt easily, it doesn't bond that well either. Do these handle that? Only one review mentions ptfe
"These work really well on most types of wire however if you are trying to strip PTFE or any other very durable jacketed wire then these will not work."
okay, the PA1115P has a separate $50 blade just for teflon, sheesh.
 
okay, the PA1115P has a separate $50 blade just for teflon, sheesh.
Yep, IME you definitely need the carbide blade cartridges, one for each gauge too. I used to use Teflon jacketed silver plate wire a ton and and am due for a new 22AWG cartridge by now. Might be able to get around that for a while by using more 20 and 24 gauge, but these days I've mostly been using silicone insulated multistrand from BNTechgo anyway. It's always something! ;)
 
Yep, IME you definitely need the carbide blade cartridges, one for each gauge too. I used to use Teflon jacketed silver plate wire a ton and and am due for a new 22AWG cartridge by now. Might be able to get around that for a while by using more 20 and 24 gauge, but these days I've mostly been using silicone insulated multistrand from BNTechgo anyway. It's always something! ;)
Looks cool. I'm sure it could speed things up. But for the total investment and continued investment, I'll dub it an unnecessary luxury at this point in time. I've gotten pretty good touch with utility blades at this point, staying out of the wire(everyone blames the wire for breaking, no its the strip). I've thought about mounting the business end of a utility knife into a jig and load hooked utility blades into. Just sit it in, roll the fingers and pull.
But anyhow, good to know the tool is there!
Maybe scoring one cheap off eBay or ask Santa.
 
Looks cool. I'm sure it could speed things up. But for the total investment and continued investment, I'll dub it an unnecessary luxury at this point in time. I've gotten pretty good touch with utility blades at this point, staying out of the wire(everyone blames the wire for breaking, no its the strip). I've thought about mounting the business end of a utility knife into a jig and load hooked utility blades into. Just sit it in, roll the fingers and pull.
But anyhow, good to know the tool is there!
Maybe scoring one cheap off eBay or ask Santa.
As always with what so many of us do here, knockoffs are always a possibility too...;)

Not all PTFE formulations are the same, some will only meet relevant mil specs when terminated with a connector, and strain relief is always a good idea IMO. When I switched to silicone wire for all my modular builds a whole lot of problems went away, FWIW. But I'm still using Teflon stuff in my current tube amp build, including solid core for the heaters. A regular old Greenlee stripper works just as well for me as the Stripax in most cases, and it was only twenty bucks or so.
 
I started with Stranded when I first started building pedals, and boy did I hate it. Someone suggested Solid Core, and I've never looked back. Everyone definitely has their own preference, Solid Core is just way easier and faster to use for me. I'm not building moving mechanical parts, everything is stationary. So Solid Core works perfect.

I order a box of this every couple months, a box probably lasts me 2-3 months, I'm usually building 2-3 pedals a weekend.

Thanks for the wire suggestion. I just ordered that, after spending way too much time trying to stuff 22ga stranded through the tiny pcb holes.
 
I got a couple spools of the Small Bear 22awg pre-bond, and although it's excellent stuff, I still have to watch out for stray wire frays. I kinda figured that pre-bond meant that the stranded wires were tinned/stuck together, but that doesn't seem to be the case..?

I was actually going to order a little 22 & 24 solid from Tayda just to see how I like it. What are the downsides of Tayda wire?
 
I got a couple spools of the Small Bear 22awg pre-bond, and although it's excellent stuff, I still have to watch out for stray wire frays. I kinda figured that pre-bond meant that the stranded wires were tinned/stuck together, but that doesn't seem to be the case..?

I was actually going to order a little 22 & 24 solid from Tayda just to see how I like it. What are the downsides of Tayda wire?
I just bought some small bear wire and I think they have changed their supplier. It’s not as good as the older stuff from them. It doesn’t seem to be “pre-bonded” as good as the older stuff.
 
I got a couple spools of the Small Bear 22awg pre-bond, and although it's excellent stuff, I still have to watch out for stray wire frays. I kinda figured that pre-bond meant that the stranded wires were tinned/stuck together, but that doesn't seem to be the case..?

I was actually going to order a little 22 & 24 solid from Tayda just to see how I like it. What are the downsides of Tayda wire?
The pre-bond I get from LMS and GuitarPcb it's the case, rarely ever get a stray wire.
 
@drgonzo1969 Ahhhh ok. Glad I'm not crazy. That's pretty disappointing, as it was touted to be one of the best. Guess that changed, because it's a bit of a pain. I tin the ends of course, but... still.

@Barry Someone mentioned that the LMS wire is the same that GuitarPCB sells, but... it's quite a bit more expensive there. Seems like GuitarPCB is completely out of EVERY color of Barry's Best 24awg stranded - rats! Is this a regular occurrence?

That Remington pack someone mentioned looks like a decent deal. Anyone else use that? I feel like I haven't found the right wire yet. I have some Fermerry 24 stranded I got from Amazon a couple years ago, but it's certainly not pre-bond. Then there's the Small Bear that isn't quite what I'd hoped. I was gonna try Tayda's, but it seems pretty disliked around here. Hmm.

I need to order from Antique Electronic Supply too, and they have this. Anybody try it? https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/wire-weico-24awg-stranded-top-coat-pre-tinned-300v-50-feet
 
@drgonzo1969 Ahhhh ok. Glad I'm not crazy. That's pretty disappointing, as it was touted to be one of the best. Guess that changed, because it's a bit of a pain. I tin the ends of course, but... still.

@Barry Someone mentioned that the LMS wire is the same that GuitarPCB sells, but... it's quite a bit more expensive there. Seems like GuitarPCB is completely out of EVERY color of Barry's Best 24awg stranded - rats! Is this a regular occurrence?

That Remington pack someone mentioned looks like a decent deal. Anyone else use that? I feel like I haven't found the right wire yet. I have some Fermerry 24 stranded I got from Amazon a couple years ago, but it's certainly not pre-bond. Then there's the Small Bear that isn't quite what I'd hoped. I was gonna try Tayda's, but it seems pretty disliked around here. Hmm.

I need to order from Antique Electronic Supply too, and they have this. Anybody try it? https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/wire-weico-24awg-stranded-top-coat-pre-tinned-300v-50-feet
They aren't the same, the insulation on LMS wire is thicker, I use it on builds when Barry's wire slips through the hole insulation and all!
 
@drgonzo1969 Ahhhh ok. Glad I'm not crazy. That's pretty disappointing, as it was touted to be one of the best. Guess that changed, because it's a bit of a pain. I tin the ends of course, but... still.

@Barry Someone mentioned that the LMS wire is the same that GuitarPCB sells, but... it's quite a bit more expensive there. Seems like GuitarPCB is completely out of EVERY color of Barry's Best 24awg stranded - rats! Is this a regular occurrence?

That Remington pack someone mentioned looks like a decent deal. Anyone else use that? I feel like I haven't found the right wire yet. I have some Fermerry 24 stranded I got from Amazon a couple years ago, but it's certainly not pre-bond. Then there's the Small Bear that isn't quite what I'd hoped. I was gonna try Tayda's, but it seems pretty disliked around here. Hmm.

I need to order from Antique Electronic Supply too, and they have this. Anybody try it? https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/wire-weico-24awg-stranded-top-coat-pre-tinned-300v-50-feet
The Remington stuff isn't Pre-Bond, but the tubes and more wire description sounds pretty good, seems to state it's pre-bond
 
The Remington stuff isn't Pre-Bond, but the tubes and more wire description sounds pretty good, seems to state it's pre-bond
Yep I think I'm gonna give the Weico from Tubes And More a shot. The wimpy 24 gauge from Amazon is kinda pushing me towards 22awg, but I think a better 24 is more practical.
 
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Where my solid-core bros at?

I get some random Amazon stuff, and haven’t had any problems with it.

I get wire FOMO whenever one of these posts comes up. I go to all the links and look around. Prebond/ pre tinned looks like it’s probably awesome. I’m in the habit of color-coding my connections, and the idea of buying 4 or 5 colors to test something new is a lot.

Erik S: "Where my solid-core bros at?"
jhzz: "Um.. back here in the back row... with the art school kids and this goth chick..."
 
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