wire preference..

[Feral Feline]

Did you pre-tin the tips of the stranded wire, CDWillis?

Even 22awg is a pain for some PCBs teensy orifices, and vero I bet. So...

...24awg seems to be the happy compromise for larger builds and 1590A builds, but 26awg while fiddly to deal with, sure saved more than few 1590A-builds.

While I'm not a solid-core guy, like Erik I do like to use different coloured wire for different parts of a build. Makes trouble-shooting easier and IMO looks good. Uniformity of wire colour can look good, but whenever I see it I just think "Hope that builder doesn't need to troubleshoot anything."


As for solid-core, by the time I'm done wrangling the board and bits in/out of the enclosure for test-fitting, trouble-shooting and just plain ol' wire-routing aesthetics ... I'll have two or three broken-core wires.


What I'd like to know from the teflon users is what sorts of insulation-strippers they've used. I've got a spring-loaded green-handled machine to squeeze, and it works fine on most all wire I've used, but haven't tried Teflon yet.



We all work differently, have our own druthers, methods and predilections — solid-core just doesn't work for me, but it often looks great in other people's builds.



Now, about those sockets...

 

[Harry Klippton]

Did you pre-tin the tips of the stranded wire, CDWillis?

Even 22awg is a pain for some PCBs teensy orifices, and vero I bet. So...

...24awg seems to be the happy compromise for larger builds and 1590A builds, but 26awg while fiddly to deal with, sure saved more than few 1590A-builds.

While I'm not a solid-core guy, like Erik I do like to use different coloured wire for different parts of a build. Makes trouble-shooting easier and IMO looks good. Uniformity of wire colour can look good, but whenever I see it I just think "Hope that builder doesn't need to troubleshoot anything."


As for solid-core, by the time I'm done wrangling the board and bits in/out of the enclosure for test-fitting, trouble-shooting and just plain ol' wire-routing aesthetics ... I'll have two or three broken-core wires.


What I'd like to know from the teflon users is what sorts of insulation-strippers they've used. I've got a spring-loaded green-handled machine to squeeze, and it works fine on most all wire I've used, but haven't tried Teflon yet.

View attachment 66385

We all work differently, have our own druthers, methods and predilections — solid-core just doesn't work for me, but it often looks great in other people's builds.



Now, about those sockets...

All my testing and troubleshooting is done before any wire gets added to the board

 

[VanWhy]

I get mine from Remington Industries. Six 25’ spools of whatever color of 22 gauge wire you want for $25 is a good deal in my books, especially given the quality of their product.

This is a great deal! Thanks. I just purchased. Plus free shipping!

 

[drgonzo1969]

What does pre-bond mean?

 

[spi]

What does pre-bond mean?

The strands are fused together. If you've ever tried non-bonded and have loose strands sticking out of place causing shorts, you'll appreciate how great pre-bonded is. It's like the benefits of stranded and solid wire together.

 

[drgonzo1969]

The strands are fused together. If you've ever tried non-bonded and have loose strands sticking out of place causing shorts, you'll appreciate how great pre-bonded is. It's like the benefits of stranded and solid wire together.

Ok ya that’s what I was thinking. This tayda stuff is not bonded and it’s a pain in the ass .

 

[Giorfida]

I have a few spools of the Small Bear 24awg pre bond, and it’s nice. I like the Alpha/Carol 18awg solid for my tube amps that I get from McMaster or Mouser.
But more recently with pedals, I’m using the prebond ribbon cables between the PCB and footswitch breakout board, and the 24awg prebond precut/pre stripped pieces from StompBox parts as it really speeds up the final steps of the build and looks good

 

[cdwillis]

Did you pre-tin the tips of the stranded wire, CDWillis?

Even 22awg is a pain for some PCBs teensy orifices, and vero I bet. So...

...24awg seems to be the happy compromise for larger builds and 1590A builds, but 26awg while fiddly to deal with, sure saved more than few 1590A-builds.

While I'm not a solid-core guy, like Erik I do like to use different coloured wire for different parts of a build. Makes trouble-shooting easier and IMO looks good. Uniformity of wire colour can look good, but whenever I see it I just think "Hope that builder doesn't need to troubleshoot anything."


As for solid-core, by the time I'm done wrangling the board and bits in/out of the enclosure for test-fitting, trouble-shooting and just plain ol' wire-routing aesthetics ... I'll have two or three broken-core wires.


What I'd like to know from the teflon users is what sorts of insulation-strippers they've used. I've got a spring-loaded green-handled machine to squeeze, and it works fine on most all wire I've used, but haven't tried Teflon yet.

View attachment 66385

We all work differently, have our own druthers, methods and predilections — solid-core just doesn't work for me, but it often looks great in other people's builds.



Now, about those sockets...

It's been so long I'm not sure. I think I tried tinning it first and it wouldn't fit through the hole. Like I said, the wire gauge may have been too thick for the holes in the first place. I do remember trying it without tinning and it resulted in weird random strands getting squished back out onto the entry side that I ended up clipping off.

 

[almondcity]

I've only ever used Tayda wire. Mostly 24 gage solid. Seems I'm missing out on something

 

[DeadAirMD]

Where my solid-core bros at?

I get some random Amazon stuff, and haven’t had any problems with it.

I get wire FOMO whenever one of these posts comes up. I go to all the links and look around. Prebond/ pre tinned looks like it’s probably awesome. I’m in the habit of color-coding my connections, and the idea of buying 4 or 5 colors to test something new is a lot.

I started with Stranded when I first started building pedals, and boy did I hate it. Someone suggested Solid Core, and I've never looked back. Everyone definitely has their own preference, Solid Core is just way easier and faster to use for me. I'm not building moving mechanical parts, everything is stationary. So Solid Core works perfect.

I order a box of this every couple months, a box probably lasts me 2-3 months, I'm usually building 2-3 pedals a weekend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BBXTBL7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[drgonzo1969]

I haven’t tried solid core yet. I’m going to get some of that and give it a go as well.

 

[Cybercow]

I second guitarpcb wire. Barry got some good stuff there.

Plus 1 on the GuitarPCB wire. IMO, it seems to be the same stuff that LoveMySwitches sells. GuitarPCB is often out of it and that's when I found out that LoveMySwitches appears to have the same 24 gauge pre-bond wire.

And with regard to wire strippers, I've been using this one wire stripper for over 40 years. I adjusted the set screw once back when I got it and have not needed to adjust it since.

 

[Aentons]

I've only ever used Tayda wire. Mostly 24 gage solid. Seems I'm missing out on something

The Tayda wire will get the job done, but yes, it pales in comparison to almost everything else. Smallbear wire is really good but the primo stuff is Barry's Best.

(Clearance) Barry's Best Hookup Wire - (50' feet) - USA only - GuitarPCB

Barry's Best Hookup Wire Each order includes 50' feet Use Drop Down box to choose color first! Available in Black, Red, Green, or White only.

guitarpcb.com

 

[jwin615]

I haven’t tried solid core yet. I’m going to get some of that and give it a go as well.

Don't get the tayda stuff. I didn't know why but it breaks sooooo easily. Super soft. Spring for the milspec Teflon silver coated. I have some more stock on order. Once it arrives, I can PWE you a bit to try out if you'd like. I like 22awg for normal wiring but it's *almost* impossible to hardwire 3pdt switches with. On ppcb boards, it fills 95% of the hole so you don't always get great flow through the opposite side. Have 24awg on the way.
Stripping is the kicker with solid/Teflon. The insulation is very tough. Neither of my auto strippers work with it. They just pull the insulation. But you have to cut through 95% of it to yank it off *without* cutting the wire. Otherwise you have created a weak point *where you are bending the wire*. I've settled on a straight razor blade. With the right touch, works great. Every other stripper I've tried ends up biting into the wire to some degree or another. I'm guessing because the insulation and wire are so close in terms of hardness.

 

[Aentons]

Stripping is the kicker with solid/Teflon.

I tried Teflon wire for a bit and my main problem was just holding on to it to manuvure it in place. It's fairly slippery.

 

[KR Sound]

I’ve tried all sorts and different types have their places. I’d suggest to anyone to get several kinds in 22 and 24 gauge, bonded, stranded, solid, silicon, pvc, Teflon, and see what you like working with.

I settled on this 24g silicon stranded for most everything. I do have to pre-tin my ends, but it flexes nicely, won’t burn if touched by too much heat, and holds up well.

24 AWG Stranded Wire Kit – Silicone Coated Copper Wires 24 Gauge Pre-Tinned 30ft/9m Each Spool, 6 Colors (Black, Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, White), Electrical Jumper Wire Hook Up Wire Kit from Plusivo

https://a.co/d/iNVPALk

I also love Barry’s when I want it to hold shape or offer a bit of support.

(Clearance) Barry's Best Hookup Wire - (50' feet) - USA only - GuitarPCB

Barry's Best Hookup Wire Each order includes 50' feet Use Drop Down box to choose color first! Available in Black, Red, Green, or White only.

guitarpcb.com

And 22g solid core is great for hooking up to the footswitch breakout boards straight from the pcb. I put them on the board first, then slide the footswitch w/ bob right down on the wires.

 

[DeadAirMD]

I haven’t tried solid core yet. I’m going to get some of that and give it a go as well.

Just get a box of the stuff in the link I posted. No more futzin with loose wires strands, twisting wires, no more shorts because of loose strands. I love it.

I just push it through the PCB holes, bend the wire on the other side so it doesn't fall through, solder, clip, done.

That box also comes with a basic wire stripper, heat shrink tubing, and zip ties. Plus multiple colors in one box. I won't buy anything else.......EVER!!!!!!

 

[Erik S]

I've been using this one wire stripper for over 40 years

That type has become the only stripper I use for pedal wiring too.

I've been a tool collector for a long time, so I've got all kinds of strippers, including the fancy automatic ones, but nothing beats that style. Fits in tight spaces, nothing to line up, easy to strip consistent lengths. Dead simple, and works perfect.

 

[spi]

In past wire discussions, I recall people talking about which coatings were less likely to melt when soldering. Now I wish I had taken notes, because I don't remember anymore. I have some wire that it easy to melt, so I'd like to know what to avoid. What works best? I think it was Teflon and/or silicon? What kind should be avoided?

 

[Erik S]

In past wire discussions, I recall people talking about which coatings were less likely to melt when soldering. Now I wish I had taken notes, because I don't remember anymore. I have some wire that it easy to melt, so I'd like to know what to avoid. What works best? I think it was Teflon and/or silicon? What kind should be avoided?

The insulation on the stuff I use is PVC and it melts pretty easy. It's my understanding that Teflon or silicone are both melt-resistant, but I haven't tried them personally.