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[droneshotfpv]

@music6000 , excellent build! I just finished building this pedal, and I have a question for you (or anyone else who can chime in). When looking at the PCB during the testing phase (after completing the build), I wanted to watch the Clipping LED's light up. I switched to that mode, and as I strum the guitar, 2 of them lit up, but the 3rd didn't. I switched around, switched gain settings, switched the rotary, boost, etc. 3rd one didn't like at all (unless it was SO faint I couldn't see it). I thought maybe I damaged the LED somehow, so I tested with my DMM, and it lit up perfectly.
Is this normal? Looking top down on the PCB, it's the furthest left of the 3.

Second thing is, on yours, when you flip the bright switch, is there a noticeable difference? For me, it's almost as if the bright switch does absolutely nothing at all when flipped. I tried at various volumes and combinations to see if it was working, and for me, I didn't hear a single difference when flipped.

Here is the weird part, as far as I can tell, the pedal is working great, and sounds great, albeit with what I would consider a "need for more volume". It drives and breaks up well, sounds like I would expect when turning the gain up, but the volume seems to bottom out at some point (around 1:00) and doesn't add anymore volume after that.

What would you recommend I look for, if anything?

Thanks for your time! If I need to post this in a general area, I will.

 

[music6000]

Volume on mine is around 10.00 to 11.00 Oclock for most settings, This is typical with a ''B'' taper on volume to max out at 1.00 to 2.00 Oclock.

The Bright switch is very subtle. If you look at my numbering system with Depth 1 being the most Bass , at 6, 7 & 8 you can hear it just.
I would change C6 - 68nF to around 10nf & you should hear a bright switch.
If its too much try 22nf, Trial & error!

The 2 Led's only light up in Clip position 2 in the schematic, the Left Led will only light up in position 3 in the schematic.
It may be Position 7 for the 2 Leds on mine & 6 for the left Led or it could be Positions 2 & 3, i can't remember.
Position 1 has No clipping, that's why its the loudest with the least Gain.
So to Test, just strum hard & look at the 2 Led's to see which setting on Clip Knob lights them up , should be 2nd position & 3rd position should make the Left Led light up


Cheers music6000

 

[droneshotfpv]

Volume on mine is around 10.00 to 11.00 Oclock for most settings, This is typical with a ''B'' taper on volume to max out at 1.00 to 2.00 Oclock.

The Bright switch is very subtle. If you look at my numbering system with Depth 1 being the most Bass , at 6, 7 & 8 you can hear it just.
I would change C6 - 68nF to around 10nf & you should hear a bright switch.
If its too much try 22nf, Trial & error!

The 2 Led's only light up in Clip position 2 in the schematic, the Left Led will only light up in position 3 in the schematic.
Position 1 has No clipping, that's why its the loudest with the least Gain.
So to Test, just strum hard & look at the 2 Led's to see which setting on Clip Knob lights them up , should be 2nd position & 3rd position should make the Left Led light up
It may be Position 7 for the 2 Leds on mine & 6 for the left Led or it could be Positions 2 & 3, i can't remember.

Cheers music6000

Awesome, thank you for that! I was wondering if that one LED may have been for a boost stage or something, but that makes more sense. I was trying to figure out the schematic (I am not the GREATEST yet at reading them, but can manage slightly haha) to see the stages, but got lost quickly.

I will change that CAP out to see what the bright switch does for me, but makes sense I guess that it would be subtle.

As far as volume, I think I was just expecting more, but also thinking about it, it could be the test setup I chose to use with it as well. Maybe my expectations for volume were also higher. lol

Much appreciated for the advice, I will try this out!

 

[music6000]

Awesome, thank you for that! I was wondering if that one LED may have been for a boost stage or something, but that makes more sense. I was trying to figure out the schematic (I am not the GREATEST yet at reading them, but can manage slightly haha) to see the stages, but got lost quickly.

I will change that CAP out to see what the bright switch does for me, but makes sense I guess that it would be subtle.

As far as volume, I think I was just expecting more, but also thinking about it, it could be the test setup I chose to use with it as well. Maybe my expectations for volume were also higher. lol

Much appreciated for the advice, I will try this out!

I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.
1. The Bypass - Originally R16 was marked as 1M. Changing to 10K got rid of loud popping when switching from Active / Bypass.
2. Optional Independant Boost - the OEM Boost only works when Overdrive is On

 

[droneshotfpv]

I had 2 things I didn't like that were an Issue that were fixed by PedalPCB.
1. The Bypass - Originally R16 was marked as 1M. Changing to 10K got rid of loud popping when switching from Active / Bypass.
2. Optional Independant Boost - the OEM Boost only works when Overdrive is On

I did indeed follow the independent boost, which is a great feature. I love the idea of being able to boost other drives without NEEDING this one of the active, but also being able to activate it with this pedal as well.
This things sounds pretty mean, and I love it. It has definite dynamics that I personally love. It seems to have a little something for everybody with the options at hand.
Just a curious question. I tried building a rotary switched DIODE selector mod for a TS808 clone once. This was designed to go with the particular circuit I was building. Long story short, the DIODE selector worked, but at stupid low volumes... the catch? If I took that rotary switch, and tweaked it just BARELY past the "selection" point, it would be perfect volume, and was that way for each selection. I noticed on this one, that if I do that same method, the result is a louder variant of the selection (but this one sounds normal without doing it, just LOUDER when I do it). Is there a reason for this? Just curious.

I will let you know my results after swapping that C6 and seeing what happens.

 

[music6000]

You probably used Diodes that had very low forward voltage that caused it to be low in volume.
As you rotate from one position to the next, you a breaking the connection so you are getting a ''No Clipping'' effect which raises the volume.

 

[droneshotfpv]

You probably used Diodes that had very low forward voltage that caused it to be low in volume.
As you rotate from one position to the next, you a breaking the connection so you are getting a ''No Clipping'' effect which raises the volume.

I love this place, and the knowledge shared here. It's the first forum I felt like I could ask questions, and not be ridiculed for doing so. I appreciate your time and effort in answering my questions, and bringing things to light!

Yes, most of the diodes I used on that circuit for the 808 were low FV, generally between .31 and .42 . I was using BAT41's, 1n4001's, and a few others, as well as a GE set that were around .28. Makes sense when explained as to why. At the time I was stuck in a "low FV equals amazing clipping" because I had just learned about the Klon circuit and the use of GE diodes, with the lower FV.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

This pedal (and most other TS derivatives) is basically unit gain after the clipping stage, so low Vf diodes will make for low volume. Not the case with the Klon which has gain after the clipping and variable clean-bleed. Things that sound good in one pedal design won't necessarily sound good in another. Still, you gotta experiment and find out!

 

[droneshotfpv]

This pedal (and most other TS derivatives) is basically unit gain after the clipping stage, so low Vf diodes will make for low volume. Not the case with the Klon which has gain after the clipping and variable clean-bleed. Things that sound good in one pedal design won't necessarily sound good in another. Still, you gotta experiment and find out!

When I first learned about the Klon circuit, I of course was just beginning building and had no clue. I knew though later that the low Vf didn't always mean hot gain, and it was through pain and suffering that I found that out. lol I did just learn from you though that the Klon has gain AFTER the clipping and variable clean bleed, which I didn't really understand / know before, so thank you for that! I figured it was obviously special to the Klon circuit, but didn't know exactly how, so that adds another notch to my knowledge and understanding. (slow and steady as she goes! )
After my failed low Vf attempts in Screamer circuits, I just stuck with LEDs, and higher Vf diodes to get me those louder gain stages. I also discovered that I liked the results of using 2n7000's as clippers as well.
My goal is to get well versed enough to construct my own circuit at some point, and I think this is the place to give me the knowledge and direction I need to do so. I appreciate you all!