owlexifry
Well-known member
yo dawg, i heard you like spade connectors..
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
cliffs_trip
Well-known member
Which Crate is that? lol
Erik S
Well-known member
It’s a buddy’s Blue Voodoo/ lost cause.
I think he bought new tubes and paid somebody to work on it at some point, but it’s been in a no-sound condition for a long time. Figured I probably won’t make it dead-er.
So far I reflowed a couple sketchy looking joints and found one open resistor. Not sure what would have cooked a resistor. Blindly replacing it without understanding the cause is pretty poor troubleshooting, but that might be where I’m at. I did order new electros. Figured I might as well do that since I went through the trouble of getting the board out, and a couple look a tad swollen.
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Feral Feline
Well-known member
I'm currently re-organising my solder-bench and came across some bits'n'bobs from HK.
Nearly a year ago while visiting there I found a bunch of metal-can transistors in a shop. They looked old — mind, the humidity, sea-air and smog-toxicity from the Pearl River Delta manufacturing region means they could've been only months old), and I'm a sucker for metal-can mental mojo (ie I know there's no mojo, it's all metal eh I mean MeNTaL). So I got all I could.
Taking a break from the revamp I decided to test a few transistors… As I suspected, all PNP.
The gold-legs are all from the same batch, the box at the store was labelled, but I forget what each type is. Goldies are about 50–60hFE.
The medium-sized ones are the most decrepit, 30–100hFE all over the map.
Large are two types:
1) almost shiny — 200hFE (can read the label on these, but I forgot what they are) cr
and
2) really dull. 100hFE. (can almost read the lable).
I'm surprised I get a reading at all from some of them. After the photo was taken, this one came in at 40-ish (I test 'm 3 times each).
I'll take an emery stick or something to the leads before I try to solder them into anything.
Also on the bench,
- a BuzzBox (2xBazzFuss) from Delyk that's going to get mixed in with some PPCB Muff bread-crumbs;
- a couple Cranky Speaker PCBs from ELS, one of which I planned to make a Tchula (before Robert offered one) and the 2nd hidden right underneath might become a Southampton Fifth Gear in a 1590LB with trimmers instead of pots, and no stomper so always on (maybe a bypass toggle, JIC);
- part of the HK pile, the test-hooks await matching wires with pin ends for breadboarding/testing;
- the Gørva switch waiting for me to find solder-time and attach the daughterboard of the Laran onto it. Borked 1590BB (as jig) is what helped me win the TC-1 from Fig. So every time I use the little test box, I think of, and thank, Fig.
Nearly a year ago while visiting there I found a bunch of metal-can transistors in a shop. They looked old — mind, the humidity, sea-air and smog-toxicity from the Pearl River Delta manufacturing region means they could've been only months old), and I'm a sucker for metal-can mental mojo (ie I know there's no mojo, it's all metal eh I mean MeNTaL). So I got all I could.
Taking a break from the revamp I decided to test a few transistors… As I suspected, all PNP.
The gold-legs are all from the same batch, the box at the store was labelled, but I forget what each type is. Goldies are about 50–60hFE.
The medium-sized ones are the most decrepit, 30–100hFE all over the map.
Large are two types:
1) almost shiny — 200hFE (can read the label on these, but I forgot what they are) cr
and
2) really dull. 100hFE. (can almost read the lable).
I'm surprised I get a reading at all from some of them. After the photo was taken, this one came in at 40-ish (I test 'm 3 times each).
I'll take an emery stick or something to the leads before I try to solder them into anything.
Also on the bench,
- a BuzzBox (2xBazzFuss) from Delyk that's going to get mixed in with some PPCB Muff bread-crumbs;
- a couple Cranky Speaker PCBs from ELS, one of which I planned to make a Tchula (before Robert offered one) and the 2nd hidden right underneath might become a Southampton Fifth Gear in a 1590LB with trimmers instead of pots, and no stomper so always on (maybe a bypass toggle, JIC);
- part of the HK pile, the test-hooks await matching wires with pin ends for breadboarding/testing;
- the Gørva switch waiting for me to find solder-time and attach the daughterboard of the Laran onto it. Borked 1590BB (as jig) is what helped me win the TC-1 from Fig. So every time I use the little test box, I think of, and thank, Fig.
Erik S
Well-known member
That one looks like it’s got moldjo.
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Feral Feline
Well-known member
ALL of that type are equally skuzzy. I hope they sound as good as they ... as bad as they look.
cliffs_trip
Well-known member
Thought it looked familiar. I’ve had a few of those and a couple other Crates. Can’t say I’ve had a no sound condition. Mostly dead channel switching jfets. Can’t remember if that one has the auto-bias circuit. I’ve seen resistors left out on those boards from factory. If someone else has been in it before, it may be bad workmanship. I like the cleans on the voodoo amps. Good luck! An audio-probe may be the best bet to trace the audio signal to see where it’s cutting out. Then figure out why the signal is being dumped to ground or if there is an open in the audio signal path.
Erik S
Well-known member
Sorry - Should have explained better. There was a resistor in that spot - I desoldered it and tested it and it's electrically open like it got burned out.
Erik S
Well-known member
I'd been procrastinating setting one up for a long time. Combination of your comment and some amp stuff on youtube pushed me over the edge.
Grabbed a banana plug connector off a junk power supply and mounted it in a box with a cap on the amp/signal side. Tested it out on a pedal and it works!
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jessenator
Well-known member
extra spicy gainz for extra spicy toanz
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Working on an OG enclosure 
This is my first time working with steel. It’s definitely not as forgiving as aluminum but then again at 20 gauge it’s not to bad! You just have to be sure not to over-bend!!
I need to get a black for the bottom and I will be clear coating the top. If you look at the Big Muff enclosures there’s some clear coat on the top portion the enclosure. I know they are supposed to run off a battery but I figured I’d make this one run off a 9v power supply instead…
Had a lot of fun with steel! Will try to make one more of these!
This is my first time working with steel. It’s definitely not as forgiving as aluminum but then again at 20 gauge it’s not to bad! You just have to be sure not to over-bend!!
I need to get a black for the bottom and I will be clear coating the top. If you look at the Big Muff enclosures there’s some clear coat on the top portion the enclosure. I know they are supposed to run off a battery but I figured I’d make this one run off a 9v power supply instead…
Had a lot of fun with steel! Will try to make one more of these!
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Erik S
Well-known member
How’s the new brake??
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Its incredible! The bends i can get out of it are levels above in quality over my last brake!
Erik S
Well-known member
I bet!
DGWVI
Well-known member
Working on an OG enclosure
This is my first time working with steel. It’s definitely not as forgiving as aluminum but then again at 20 gauge it’s not to bad! You just have to be sure not to over-bend!!
I need to get a black for the bottom and I will be clear coating the top. If you look at the Big Muff enclosures there’s some clear coat on the top portion the enclosure. I know they are supposed to run off a battery but I figured I’d make this one run off a 9v power supply instead…
Had a lot of fun with steel! Will try to make one more of these!
View attachment 63181
View attachment 63182View attachment 63183View attachment 63184
Gimme gimme gimme!!!
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
I’ll be making another one! I just need to get some black powder coat as I don’t have any!
Harry Klippton
Not Interested
At least none of the box caps are melted?