What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

jessenator said:
Belts tightened.

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Although cura has some weirdness with the seam

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Maybe I need to get a different slicing program or setup.

IDK maybe there's more to tweak.
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Try printing the outer wall first at a lower speed. That should get rid of the little bump which is likely ringing due to the quick change of direction.

If there is still a small gap bump up the extrusion a little until it goes away. It probably won’t dial in perfect tho. It’s about finding a happy medium.

If you mess with the extrusion you may have to bump up the first layer height a little.

I think it looks pretty good.
 
owlexifry said:
got a headlining show next month with a couple interstate bands that are gonna need to use our backline.
normally I just my SLO clone(s), but for these sort of backline share scenarios it's better to have something ppl are more familiar with.

so I thought it'd be a good idea to give my Peavey 6534+ a service + preventative maintenance etc.

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after this one the other guitarist's 6505 is next, and boy howdy that thing has had a hard life.

really hoping it doesn't that horrible shitty grey ribbon cable stuff that the 5150s have...
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the other bands are gonna wreck them anyway
 
jimilee said:
I use little Dixie cups to set the enclosures higher. That way, when and if you get runoff, it won’t stick the enclosures to the plates.
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Ooh good idea. I’ve definitely had them stick to the plates before.

Do you use anything to cover them while they’re curing? I have some containers that sit upside down on the rims of the plates.
 
JTEX said:
Just got this "2X300W" (my quotes) class D amp board from AliExpress. Based around a TPA3255 chip.
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Update: it works as described. I measured 200W per channel into a 4 ohm load at <1% THD using a 46V power supply. I'm sure it can do 250W with a solid 50V PSU. Most importantly, it does not tend to go into protection when used with a music instrument (I tried it with a bass, slapping as hard as I could). I think one could make a pretty good, inexpensive, powerful FRFR amp. Just needs a 48V+/10A+ power supply, which actually costs more and is bulkier than the amp PCB.
 
jcpst said:
Ooh good idea. I’ve definitely had them stick to the plates before.

Do you use anything to cover them while they’re curing? I have some containers that sit upside down on the rims of the plates.
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I do not. They usually sit on my bar in the kitchen until they cure enough to move them to my office. It’s just me and my wife, so they won’t get moved around until then.
 
Pauleo1214 said:
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Did this for a bike tech at the Trek shop. It's his Cannondale R800. Took off the paint and sanded up to 1000 grit with an angle grinder and then made merry with my micromesh.
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I have a friend who was a hardcore bmx dude who eventually blew out his knees and switched to climbing to fill the void. He decided to do the same thing to his bike frame only he didn't use any power tools. It was entirely about hand strength and stamina exercise.
 
Mentaltossflycoon said:
I have a friend who was a hardcore bmx dude who eventually blew out his knees and switched to climbing to fill the void. He decided to do the same thing to his bike frame only he didn't use any power tools. It was entirely about hand strength and stamina exercise.
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Oh, the micromesh was done by hand. 1,500 to 12,000 grit. I have the gloves to prove it. So not only do I have a polished frame but I can Michael Jackson cosplay as well.

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Sketchiest router template in history? I’m trying to electrify my autoharp. Whoops— I guess the map I found of old Oscar Schmitt autoharp bracing patterns wasn’t accurate. Hopefully it’s not too much of an issue that this lost most of the length of the largest back brace and some depth of the longest soundboard brace. 😅

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Most immediately this weekend I’m fixing up this Mesa F100 for a buddy of mine. Replacing several ceramic caps that are severely microphonic, full electrolytic recap due to age and the extent I have to disassemble the amp, and replacing the toasty diodes that rectify the heater supply, mounting them up off the PCB to mitigate the heat damage to the board.
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(pic is before I’ve done anything to the amp)

After that I have another friend’s VHT Pitbull 100/CL he brought it to me because it’s gotten noisy. Tested it out and noticed at least one tube was red plating then shut er down.
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It’s a privilege to have friends with this kinda gear to work on So far I’ve repaired a JCM800 2205, Mesa DR Tremoverb, and 3 Peavey VTM 120s. All were blast to play test as well. Gaining some great experiance and it’s definitely saving me from serious GAS lol.
 
Found my shallower template bit so I was able to route out the recess for the access plate. Need to break the scroll saw out some other day to actually make the plate. I’m just hyped about the thought of electric autoharp— gonna be a few of the donner k&k knockoffs. They’re pretty damn solid piezos for the price. @Robert whats the progress on those acoustic preamps looking like? I need a pristine acoustic tone to run my autoharp into a pair of ring mods, I hope you understand 😆
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Trying to trace out an updated Boss GE7 for some upgrades - I've got the newer version, and the only schematic with correct component identification was apparently listed on somebody's Google Drive back in 2020 but is long since gone.

Once that's done, I've got to figure out what the hell is going on with a broken Trueman 1966 I picked up for cheap.
 
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