What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

So, as you may tell, I’ve been putting out feelers to do work on or buy broken stuff. A local guitar shop manager has been giving me some work, along with friends and some random dudes.

I was given this Markbass Micro 801 that doesn’t work and was just taking up space for years. Nothing really obviously stands out, but it’ll be fun to start exploring the switches, and hardware first. 🤞 I was soooo hoping it was the ‘hidden’ fuse by the power plug, but it’s intact.

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Got the J201s soldered into the Indiana Tweed and Indiana Deluxe. Now I just need 5 more 10K resistors since I apparently failed to notice that I would be a little short on quantity. Other than that, all the boards I have on hand are now done with the onboard components. Time for cases, paint, and graphics. IMG_0095.jpeg
 
Feral Feline said:
View attachment 90948

You don't even have to remove the LEVEL pot from your build.
Just add the wires and DPDT as shown to go from the LEVEL-pot setting to FULL-BLAST.
If you need to tame full-blast just a smidge, you can stick a resistor inline between the pot and the switch, either
SW LUG-2 <> LEVEL-3
or
SW LUG-1 <> LEVEL-2.
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I have no idea why this quote above, from myself, was included here. I only clicked on the following two quotes, but I'm leaving the above quote 'cause I think it was an old reply to someone and I never hit "post". So there you have it, mystery builder, my smug lug-solution to being able to go full blast at the drop of a switch-bat.



Pauleo1214 said:
Thank you for you concern about my anus. You can breath a sigh of relief now. I know I am.

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Nostradoomus said:
there’s a worry wart joke somewhere in between there
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I didn't know the guy personally, but the head-mechanic at the bike shop I worked at knew the guy...
... who had to be taken to hospital to have his testicle released from that style of seat's crevice after having hit a pothole/bump/whatever...
Not an urban-legend, real-life drama.

That saddle might ride cooler with the extra airflow, maybe, but is it worth the risk?

Good luck with it.
 
Feral Feline said:
I have no idea why this quote above, from myself, was included here. I only clicked on the following two quotes, but I'm leaving the above quote 'cause I think it was an old reply to someone and I never hit "post". So there you have it, mystery builder, my smug lug-solution to being able to go full blast at the drop of a switch-bat.








I didn't know the guy personally, but the head-mechanic at the bike shop I worked at knew the guy...
... who had to be taken to hospital to have his testicle released from that style of seat's crevice after having hit a pothole/bump/whatever...
Not an urban-legend, real-life drama.

That saddle might ride cooler with the extra airflow, maybe, but is it worth the risk?

Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
You know you're on a great forum when people care about your anus and scrotum!

No worries here, I ride with padded shorts and pants. It's like riding with a giant, padded maxi pad. It keeps the boys pressed up and prevents them from being caught or pinched.
 
Pauleo1214 said:
You know you're on a great forum when people care about your anus and scrotum!

No worries here, I ride with padded shorts and pants. It's like riding with a giant, padded maxi pad. It keeps the boys pressed up and prevents them from being caught or pinched.
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😹 I'm all too familiar with riding shorts, chamois and the like. So was the guy that hit that saddle hard enough to ...

May you always ride with a Tailwind, Paul — keep the shiny side up dirty side down and your britches between the ditches. 🚴‍♀️
 
owlexifry said:
View attachment 94571
looks like R79 is a B+/voltage dropping resistor between the output transformer centre tap ('B+1') and the screen ('B+2') supply.
i wouldn't call it a fuse.
hopefully whatever caused it to pop doesn't happen again....
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Ya, was just saying so as it went kapow . Not sure what caused it, but I’ve talked to a couple guys on TDPRI who came across the same thing.

Tube related evidently? None of the guys knew, but said it did remedy it. At least in the meantime. Would be nice to know though!
 
Marshall DSL100H. Bought this one used a couple of years ago. First time I'm having a peek inside actually since it always just worked and sounded great - and it still does but the output tubes are due for a replacement I reckon. The amp tended to get a little crackly after playing for longer periods at high volume lately. Solder joints and components look good. Seems to be all stock.

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Still had the factory tubes installed. Quad of Marshall branded TAD EL34. 29/08 I guess translates to 29th week of 2008? Not a bad run! Bias was set to around 65% max plate dissipation. Good to know these amps don't require a crazy hot bias to sound good.

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And the new quad:

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Again biased to around 65% for now. Going to give these guys some time to settle in and then do my final adjustments next weekend or so.
 
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