How do you feel about 1590A builds?

How do you feel about 1590A builds?

  • Yay! I love 1590A builds!

    Votes: 18 41.9%

  • Whatevs...I'll just put it in a larger enclosure.

    Votes: 17 39.5%

  • Ugh. I hate 3PDT mounted PCBs and off-board potentiometers!

    Votes: 7 16.3%

  • I require more features—give me more knobs!

    Votes: 10 23.3%
  • Total voters
    43
Aleph Null

Aleph Null

Well-known member
I'm developing a one-knob circuit and am trying to get a sense of how people feel about PCBs designed specifically for the 1590A form factor. This would mean a foot-switch mounted PCB and probably off-board wiring for the jacks and pot. The design could potentially have more features, but sometimes elegance is better than extra features. Ultimately, I'm designing for myself, but if I can accommodate other people's preferences, I'd like to do that.
 
I enjoy the challenge. I much prefer board mounted 9mm pots than having offboard wiring. The Fuzzdog Fuzzpups V2 stuff is perfect in this sense (the V1 fuzzpups, which a few of them haven’t yet been updated from, mainly use off board wired pots, which is fiddly and annoying). For a one-knob circuit, a 16mm board mounted pot is ideal.
 
rossbalch said:
Personally I find that 1590A pedals don't actually take up much less space than regular 1590B build with top mounted jacks.

Having said that, I think you can have your cake and eat it too if you use these https://stompboxparts.com/pots/16mm-potentiometer-tall-pcb-leg/

You should be able to mount both the footswitch and the Pot then.
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This design would require a dual gang pot. I can't find any tall leg, dual gang pots. It would work well in most situations, though. Also, I agree that 1590As don't really save space compared to a 125B with top mount jacks. I guess it's more of an aesthetic choice.
 
Aleph Null said:
This design would require a dual gang pot. I can't find any tall leg, dual gang pots. It would work well in most situations, though. Also, I agree that 1590As don't really save space compared to a 125B with top mount jacks. I guess it's more of an aesthetic choice.
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I've seen a few top jack 1590a builds around here which is both impressive and complete insanity.
 
jimilee said:
Been there, done that several times over. It pisses me off every time I build one.
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I have a Cupcake that hasn't found a home yet for this reason…

I keep saying if they made a taller 1590G, I'd consider a sub 1590B build. But the B is such a great size. A tall G would still necessitate side jacks…

But for LpB-1, orange squeezer, ringer, those small circuits it's kind of a waste to put it in larger enclosures. INB4 "lol green ringer already a waste" peanut gallery.

I actually considered putting an LPB-1 into the garbage 1590F smallbear gave me in the grab box for the PHB build contest.
 
For anything other than a 1590A, I require top mounted jacks. A 1590B is too tight for that, unless you're using I/O boards and PCB mounted DC jacks. That's all fine and good, but I hate needing a square hole or having the jack sit inside the enclosure.

Does anyone have objections to a 125B over a 1590B layout?
 
Aleph Null said:
A 1590B is too tight for that, unless you're using I/O boards and PCB mounted DC jacks
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not really. hand drilled top jacks on 1590B is very achievable.

ive recently figured out a super simple way to do it.

1) grab a madbean 1590B layout

2) do this:
1754961100640.png
- the 'x axis' of the original DC jack location is perfect for the I/O jacks. just mark a spot about 10mm inwards from the edge along that axis.
- draw a line along the centre from the original DC jack location, then mark a spot to shift it 'downwards', out of the way of the I/O jacks. I cant remember the exact measurement, but i usually just eyeball and mark it with DC jack in hand, so that it sits a mm or two from the top.
 
1754961543866.png


Cybercow

Thread '1590B Top-Mount Jacks Measurements'

Some folks were asking about a template for top mounted jacks on 1590B. While I don't have a template, I did record my measurements.
It uses Lumberg KLB-3 mono 1/4" jacks and a Lumberg 2.1mm non-switched DC jack. The spacing is right-on enough to use lock washers on the inside for the 1/4" jacks.

After completing four identical builds with these precise measurements, a fellow FB DIY member, Zack Slater, worked up a 3-D printed drill template for me. Once they arrive, I'll confirm they work as well as my hand-measurements worked.

Note the drilled holes for two pots that appear beneath...
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owlexifry said:
not really. hand drilled top jacks on 1590B is very achievable.

ive recently figured out a super simple way to do it.

1) grab a madbean 1590B layout

2) do this:
View attachment 101008
- the 'x axis' of the original DC jack location is perfect for the I/O jacks. just mark a spot about 10mm inwards from the edge along that axis.
- draw a line along the centre from the original DC jack location, then mark a spot to shift it 'downwards', out of the way of the I/O jacks. I cant remember the exact measurement, but i usually just eyeball and mark it with DC jack in hand, so that it sits a mm or two from the top.
Click to expand...
🤔 Are you using a Lumberg style DC jack and mono jacks, or can you use Nuetrik style mono jacks? (I would do my own homework, but I don't have a 1590B on hand.)
 
Aleph Null said:
🤔 Are you using a Lumberg style DC jack and mono jacks, or can you use Nuetrik style mono jacks? (I would do my own homework, but I don't have a 1590B on hand.)
Click to expand...
yep, lumbergs. haven't attempted with anything else. they're a godsend for tight spaces.
also the jacks kinda have to go in the same orientation (rather than the usual symmetrical / opposite orientation). well, it's a lot easier if they do...
IMG_9598.jpeg
 
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