Aleph Tape Delay Mk2

falco_femoralis

Well-known member
Here's another one I've been working on

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I bought this and the Special Sacue almost a year ago. I completed the Sauce a few months ago but I wasn't feeling this one at the time so I put it off. Inspiration finally striked (strook?) and I ended up with this enclosure.

When I was building it, I bent the pots' legs like this. I got it close useing pliers and then dialed it in by fitting the board over and onto the legs.
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Unfortunately I ran into a snag fitting the audio jacks. I'd already done my layout and drilled the enclosure for this setup so I had to get creative
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It looks like the board was designed for the Switchcraft style open audio jacks. I like to use these squared off box jacks because they are cheap, reliable, allow the jacks to be placed further apart and closer to the bottom of the enclosure, and I square them up along the screw bosses so if the jack were to come loose, it can A - be tightened from the outside without removing the back, and B not get twisted around and cause more problems.

Thankfully, this worked
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And now there is enough space. I didn't have a low profile 100uf on hand, but laying a regular one over fit ok. The solder holes in this board are slightly smaller diameter from the PPCB boards, which makes desoldering a bit trickier as there is less room for capillary action to pull solder out from the holes when using wick (my favorite). But I do like the smaller holes for the pots.
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Having all the hook up wires terminate in one row, including the audio in/out signals, made the wiring very clean, and there's a ton of extra space inside the pedal.

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Here's how I did the LED. It's a cool violet one I got from Mouser. My 9v battery hook up wire is still kaput so I didn't get a pic of it on, but the way the jewel disperses the light it transitions from pink/violet/light blue in a pleasing way that compliments the color of the enclosure.
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I like the pedal! PT2399 delays have an almost distorted harshness I'm not fond of, but the pitch bending features on this one make it ok. I especially like the Noise control, which is a tone control but also adds crackly analog sounding noise when turned up all the way. It's really clever that the knob has two functions in one that relate to and work with each other. It's also nice being able to turn the Mix all the way up and get 100% wet / 0% dry. That and a really low delay time plus the pitch bending is a good time. Last year I focused on overdrive pedals and I don't have very many delay or reverb pedals, but I'm happy to add this one to the collection.
 
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The PCB was designed with open jacks in mind and the original template reflects that. I added a second drill template specifically for closed jacks, but that was probably after you bought yours.

This is one of the hard things about designing for jelly bean parts. There's always some common form factor that you can't easily account for in every design.

You managed to make it work, though!
 
The PCB was designed with open jacks in mind and the original template reflects that. I added a second drill template specifically for closed jacks, but that was probably after you bought yours.

This is one of the hard things about designing for jelly bean parts. There's always some common form factor that you can't easily account for in every design.

You managed to make it work, though!
Yup, you could think of this as feedback to help you with your designs in the future!
 
If my penmanship looked that good, my lettering stamps would gather dust. It's got a "The Wall" vibe about it that works great on a pedal.

On the paint job, did you let the base color dry and then add the darker color and smear it down with a paper towel or something? Whatever you did looks pretty damned good to my eye.
 
If my penmanship looked that good, my lettering stamps would gather dust. It's got a "The Wall" vibe about it that works great on a pedal.

On the paint job, did you let the base color dry and then add the darker color and smear it down with a paper towel or something? Whatever you did looks pretty damned good to my eye.
The lettering is so hard to do consistently. The pen moves over the surface differently and more quickly than writing on paper so it can move too fast and then the letters look like a 3rd grader drew them and I have to quickly wipe it off before it dries and try again. I'd just like them all to be mostly uniform and level.

Re: other sentence: it depends what the color is. This one is dioxazine purple, which is very pigminted and very dark, so you need to mix it with white to really see what it is. What I did here is mix it on the pallete and figure out how much white I wanted to add to the purple to get the color I want, and then next to it I mix the purple and white with less white to determine how the streaks will look. Then I blend the two together in another spot to see how they blend and contrast together, and from there I can see if I need to add more or less white to either color.

Then I pick up the lighter color with the brush and put on a base coat, and once the enclosure is covered then I can blend in the darker color to get streaking. It's really important to do this while everything is nice wet, otherwise it looks really bad. And the texture of the primer coat makes it so you need a base color coat to support the "gliding" motion you need when blending. It's not very scientific and there are lots of times I've not been happy with the results but this was one that I liked :)
 
So base coat wet too? You've got some Bob Ross in your soul.
Yup, you want all the color to be wet at the same time. But let the primer dry and cure for 4 days to a week.

Some people (real painters) do multiple layers where they will let the layers underneath dry before going on top, and this is valid too, but the result is different and to get this effect I do it when everything is wet all together.
 
The lettering is so hard to do consistently. The pen moves over the surface differently and more quickly than writing on paper so it can move too fast and then the letters look like a 3rd grader drew them and I have to quickly wipe it off before it dries and try again. I'd just like them all to be mostly uniform and level.
Very cool! I know this lettering workflow all too well. So many quick wipes before I get it looking how I want. I've been trying a dip pen into a paint pen refill, for extra control, but it's temperamental.

Looks great! I have one of these boards just about ready to finish too and will keep that in mind about the jacks
 
Very cool! I know this lettering workflow all too well. So many quick wipes before I get it looking how I want. I've been trying a dip pen into a paint pen refill, for extra control, but it's temperamental.

Looks great! I have one of these boards just about ready to finish too and will keep that in mind about the jacks
Thanks! I like how your pedals look. @Erik S has a cool lettering workflow where he engineered the uncertainties out of the process.

If you use open switch craft or lumburg jacks it should turn out ok without (any?) modification, but I don't normally have Lumburgs and I'd already drilled for (and prefer) a wider spacing that wouldn't suit the switchcraft.

I was trying to understand how the board was meant to be installed vs a typical PPCB board, so I compared my board/jack layout with what Aleph did in his demo vid. He has his knobs placed further down, which gets the caps further away from the audio jacks. They look about level with your pedals, so I don't think you'll have a problem.
 
Thanks! I like how your pedals look. @Erik S has a cool lettering workflow where he engineered the uncertainties out of the process.
All the lengths I went to on lettering were because I was never able to able to lay down a handwritten label that looked as nice as the ones you did here.

For my money there's nothing as cool as a good hand written one.

I've always been super impressed by folks who do calligraphy, sign painters, hand written menu boards, that kind of stuff.

I liked the Tape Delay a lot too. This one and the PPCB Magnetron gave me new respect for the lowly PT2399.
 
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