Recent content by BuddytheReow

Keep in mind @BJG that with you switch as is, the BIAS control will only be useful when the selector switch is engaged one way. Not sure if you want to incorporate that or not into both transistors.

You're soldering looks ok for the most part. I would reflow all joints just to make sure nothing is cold. Also, have you confirmed each and every component value (resistor and capacitor)?

Can you open it up and show us the guts? There's clearly something going on...

Try cleaning your board with some IPA and a toothbrush. Reflow all joints especially around the treble pot C21, C13, C14, C15

Does transistor choice matter?

You got a schematic?

Many pedal players like myself operate the same way: set it and forget it

This board is definitely a rite of passage if you're into muffs. I've probably spent more time flipping switches on it that actually playing through it. One of the reasons why it just stays on my shelf.... Nice build, though!

@MichaelW any requests? Happy to help. There are a few other threads I made to help push in the right direction. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/designing-stripboard-layouts-part-1.24472/ https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/designing-stripboard-layouts-part-2.24515/

A C tapered pot will give you more control of the gain in terms of the sweep

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/whats-the-deal-with-stripboard-veroboard.10439/

It also depends on the type of LEDs you're working with. If you've got the super bright ones from tayda, don't be surprised if you're CLR is 25k+.

So, is this an Electra with a BMP tone control plus recovery stage? If you could post a full schematic that would be helpful.

Oh, and I built one of these. It can easily fit in a 1590b.

Makes sense to me. Your coupling cap for the audio probe doesn't need to be that big (1uf OR 630V). For guitar, a "standard" 100nf box cap will work just fine. If you've got the space you can use a 1uf box cap.