Recent content by DougieFresh

Since they are 1u, the box caps (at least the ones I have) are a bit too thick to fit in the available space. I did use one (for C6 at the lower-right) where space wasn't an issue...

Wow, looks like I got really lucky... Only needed to reverse C15 (since I had already used a box film cap for C6 on the lower-right). My component tester showed no apparent issues so I was even able to re-use it. No popping now and everything seems to be working perfectly. Thanks!

The Arachnid calls for six 1u MLCC caps (I presume because of the tight spacing... but I'd be interested to learn if there are any other reasons why this type are required here). While building I realized that I didn't have any MLCC, but I did have a bunch of 1u tantalums which I thought...

Fantastic, thanks! They should add those to the build docs... Very hard to see the faders without some kind of tip, especially with the black faceplate.

Very nice builds! Just wondering where you got those little white tips for the slide pots... I can't seem to find them anywhere. Thanks!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. As always, I find these troubleshooting experiences (and discussions) very educational. Just a final update... After trying everything mentioned here with no luck, I decided to remove all the faders, desoldered all the contacts on the PCB, sprayed contact...

Thanks for the suggestions. No I did’t put it back together. I only noticed the effects on the PCB with the faders as measured using my DMM (weird resistance values unless I torque it a bit). Guess I have some more exploring to do…

Yes I swapped the parts and it didn't help... Maybe it's a batch of faulty parts combined with some kind of physical interaction with the PCB? The faders seem to work fine when removed from the board. I tried spraying contact cleaner and it didn't help, unfortunately.

With the pots removed (I only removed the first and sixth pot in order to test and swap them), it reads 0 through 50k. But when they are installed, they go from 0 to 15k at the middle, and then back down to 10k at the other end. It's odd (to me), but I figure that has to do with how they are all...

The problem appears to be on the slider board itself (when not attached to the main PCB with the components)... The measured resistance is very different (ranging from ~10k to ~60k) unless I torque the pot a bit, in which case it reads the same values as the others (oddly, ranging from 0 to 15k...

I tested between each of the top 6 pins (which connect separately to pin 2 on each pot) and one of the bottom pins.

There are no additional components on this PCB... only the six pots. All the components are on the main board connected to this one via 9 header pins.

I've encountered a very frustrating issue with the leftmost (100 Hz) slider pot and I've completely run out of ideas. After assembling everything and soldering the potentiometer and main boards together, I noticed that the leftmost pot was not boosting the low frequencies as expected when above...

7-minute reply… what a hero!! Thanks very much.

After trying unsuccessfully to troubleshoot an issue with my 6-Band EQ build, I decided I had no choice but to separate the two boards that were soldered together with three sets of pin-headers. This proved challenging, so I cut the pins physically and then desoldered the remains... While doing...