Recent content by GizzWizzKing

I am working on a commissioned Lollar OD (Cast Iron) -> Protein Blue (Pro10 Blue) which I think will work nicely but will need to report back once it's done. I imagine it could be order switched as well for decent sounds. I personally prefer my stacked ODs when one has a simple tone control...

Most excellent! This is one of the coolest 2399 delays for me. Way to get it out of the box of shame and into the hall of fame! This is the VFE board that makes salivate. I like a few of them but this one is on the list and I am excited to tackle it. Great to see another successful report here...

I love the big honkin' LED and the graphic makes me hear 80s lo-fi synth sounds. Very cool build. Not familiar with the circuit but now it's time for me to take a look. I appreciate almost anything with a 3 band EQ

I'm surprised the Blackout Effectors Musket (PPCB Bayonet) didn't get a mention. I had thought that one got a lot of love among people looking for a more tweakable muff.

I humbly accept this great honor. Now go label something!

Is there a prize? 🤡 https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb407/

Echoing those before me 1. You'll need a new stomp unless you're pretty good at desoldering, but my experience has been that it's not worth it. Yours is rotated 90 degrees from where it should be. 2. The output jack looks as though you've mixed up the ground and signal lugs. 3. Also on the...

My initial mofeta I had fake/way out o spec FETS that I could not get to bias properly (low enough/high enough I don't remember at the moment) but they did still work to some extent without any lack of volume. To start bias by ear I believe you will want to 1 at a time bias the normal channel...

I don't see anything immediately off, but I can't read all your component values. Are your 5457s legit? Are all the transistors set in their sockets well? Are your pots all the correct values? Maybe try reflowing your joints if you haven't. And then check your component values to be sure you...

That's fair. I guess as long as the pressure is minimal then it's a step above the ground spring. Anything that pushes or pressures boards inside the enclosure seems like it would be undesirable in the long run though. But I have never seen a production pedal fail due to either of these options...

That seems one step below the behringer spring against the bottom plate. It just doesn't inspire a whole lot of confidence for me personally.

Do you use the battery snap in your builds? If not then you can connect them both and it doesn't matter. I'm not a battery fan though.

The wiki may have some answers for you but maybe you've seen that already. https://wiki.pedalpcb.com/wiki/3PDT_Order_Switch_Wiring

Clean... Clean... Clean. I appreciate boring build reports so keep them coming. And I have to say... This is the sign of someone doing things rright. The answers to your questions are likely out there with just a bit of using the search function. There is no substitute for digging in and...

Looks great! And i agree with your summation of the plumes. Different enough to justify and maybe even interest people NOT interested in a mid-foeward drive. I also just did the exact same thing drilling my hydra enclosure. The white washer is making a comeback I hear...