Affordable means different things to everyone. I've seen good reports on the Commarker b4 20w. They start about $1600, and there's a ton of great tutorials out there.Looks promising!
Are fiber lasers getting to an affordable (hobby) price yet?
So before with my Co2 laser I could only burn off the paint to leave a the exposed aluminum of the pedal.@allsmoke -
Very cool!!! I want to understand what the engraving actually is doing in your video. Is it actually cutting into the metal surface, cutting into the paint, changing the surface reflectance, or something else? Excuse my ignorance, I just haven't explored laser engraving on things other than wood or plastic. Thanks in advance.
holy shit, this is fast. I'm used to 3D printing world.I had a k40 style laser for pedal graphics that was just ok.
Upgraded to fiber and it's so much faster. Here's a real time test. Still learning to get parameters but love it.
So before with my Co2 laser I could only burn off the paint to leave a the exposed aluminum of the pedal.
With this, I can go down the the metal. Alternatively I can actually engrave directly on metal. Or you can do white or dark engrave onto the powder coat.
Here's an example of the white color on powder coat (pardon the language) in green, and dark on white View attachment 74006
View attachment 74005
With a diode laser or CO2 it operates on a specific frequency. With Fiber, I have a range of frequencies from 1-600 hz. These pulse frequencies can change the output color, so I can get white, tan, gray, black and in some cases other hues for my output. I just set it up on Sunday, but I'm already seeing better results with some of my trials. So I'll have a better video coming soonSo the "Hot Sauce" etch isn't to bare metal, it's in white?
How does it work getting white vs black?
I had a Monport K40 that I was using. I couldn't get consistency and the alignment was a pain. Because this is a galvo laser (basically a laser firing at mirrors that direct the beam) rather than a gantry (where the laser is on a rail that goes back and forward), I can position the laser over the work, fire a red light outline, and make sure it's fully aligned before I move forward with the actual etchingI have access to a 40W CO2 laser at work. I didn’t know painted enclosures were safe to engrave? Aren’t the fumes toxic? And how do you get the graphics well aligned with the enclosure? Trial and error?
I also have access to a (100W) CO2. My plan is to shoot a square box the size of the enclosure on a thin plywood sheet, then position the enclosure exactly on it before I do the graphics on it. The graphics will also have the references for drilling.I have access to a 40W CO2 laser at work. I didn’t know painted enclosures were safe to engrave? Aren’t the fumes toxic? And how do you get the graphics well aligned with the enclosure? Trial and error?
Sounds like black magic!With a diode laser or CO2 it operates on a specific frequency. With Fiber, I have a range of frequencies from 1-600 hz. These pulse frequencies can change the output color, so I can get white, tan, gray, black and in some cases other hues for my output. I just set it up on Sunday, but I'm already seeing better results with some of my trials. So I'll have a better video coming soon
I thought about that as well. You may need a mark on the plywood for the location of (0,0) but besides that it should work.I also have access to a (100W) CO2. My plan is to shoot a square box the size of the enclosure on a thin plywood sheet, then position the enclosure exactly on it before I do the graphics on it. The graphics will also have the references for drilling.
Just remember the depth of field may change slightly when you adjust the Z axis after you put the pedal on the plywood. That's where my issue with my CO2 came from. Everything looked great, but it was still slightly offI thought about that as well. You may need a mark on the plywood for the location of (0,0) but besides that it should work.