Another Amp Project - the Dino Deluxe 5E3!

Fingolfen

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
So, for my first 5E3 build I decided to pretty much go stock - but I may build another with the RobRob mods... though I want to design a custom chassis for that - and I may build it as a head rather than a combo. Enough preamble - on to the pictures!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 01.jpg

For this build I once again used a bit of a mix of parts. The chassis, eyelet boards, wiring, and many of the small parts are all from Mojotone. I did however decide to splurge for a few of the bits. Where appropriate, I upgraded all of the resistors from carbon composition to carbon film. I also went with my own capacitor choices as well. The electrolytic capacitors are a mix of F&T and Jupiter. The film caps are SoZo NextGen Yellow Mustard Vintage. The tubes (which appear later) are all Tube Amp Doctor. I picked up the resistors, caps, and tubes from Amplified Parts.

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 02.jpg

As with my previous amp project, wiring the eyelet board was fairly straightforward - and a lot of fun in a very retro sort of way. One nice thing about the 5E3 project is that it comes with a full set of instructions rather than just the basic documentation (as Mojotone frequently uses this kit in their classes). I picked up a few good tips and tricks from the instructions, but eventually found myself referring to the layout more than the instructions themselves. As you can see from the photo above, there is a little wiring underneath the eyelet board as well.

For the transformers, I also decided to splurge a bit and went with Mercury Magnetics transformers. The power transformer is a FTDP-350 lower B+ transformer, and the output transformer is the modern, rather than vintage, wired version. These generally follow the same wiring conventions and colors as the ones supplied by Mojotone, but they always include the technical specs with the purchase, so it's easy to translate if there is a different colored wire.

As with most transformers you get a fair amount of wire length, so when they're first installed in the amp chassis, you get rainbow spaghetti. In the photo above I've already installed most of the switches, pots, tube sockets, some of the jacks, and the indicator light. The instructions did advise waiting on the input jacks as that end of the board would get very crowded quickly.

Another change this time around is instead of going with the etched indicators like on the Tweed, I designed a custom face plate. This one is a bit more "steampunky" than the original. I had a 5E3 template that I brought into Illustrator to design the plate. Once again, Precision Design came through with an absolutely spectacular job!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 02d.jpg

Given how tight the chassis of the narrow panel Tweed amps is, I enlisted Steggi's help to actually get everything wired up!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 03.jpg

Once all of the major hardware was installed, the long process of wiring began. Once again, the layout was very clear, so figuring out where all of the components needed to be wired in wasn't too bad. I first wired the primary switches, bulbs and power tubes. You'll note that using a modern wiring configuration, what would be the "Standby" switch is not actually wired. So, since it isn't wired, and the standard numbering of the potentiometers on this amp is from 1 to 11, the faceplate allows you to toggle between "SPNL" and "TAP" - yeah, I went there.

Next I wired up the output transformer to the two speaker jacks. This part was pretty straightforward, but then came the marathon of wiring the rest of the individual connections. I didn't take additional photos in this phase, but as you can see from the photo below, there is a LOT of wiring. The ground runs are very long, and I tried to tuck those twisted pairs of wire in toward the top of the chassis.

Once again I tried to keep all of the wiring as clean and neat as possible with any points where the wires crossed kept at right angles - especially for any power connections. This amp also has a ground bus wire running across the potentiometers whereas the 5F2-A did not. I kept my multi-meter handy during the entire process so I could ensure that everything was making proper connection - especially the grounds!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 05.jpg

Once everything was complete, I followed the Mojotone instructions for testing the amp - first without tubes and then with tubes. All of the voltages looked very solid so I decided to go ahead and install all of the tubes and give it a whirl... and oh wow... my socks were well and fully blown off! The sound is was amazing - even without being in the cabinet!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 06.jpg

Which brings me to the cabinet for this particular build! My first amp build was very much a "standard" style build. It has the look and feel of the original 5F2-A fender tweed amp. This time I wanted to go with something more "dino like" - at least as much as possible. Mojotone will build you a custom cabinet (and will even provide swatches of the material), so I went through the various options to find a covering that would be something a bit different.

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 07.jpg

I ultimately settled on using the brown ostrich tolex for the cabinet with a black/red grill cloth. The ostrich pattern looked suitably organic and sort of "dino like" - and the black/red grill cloth seemed to compliment the tolex. The speaker is also from Mojotone, an Anthem 12" 8 Ohm - which Rexie one again helped me install. Once the speaker was installed, I added the chassis screws to the cabinet and Rexie and Perry the Parasaurolophus helped me get it installed. Once I had everything lined up, it was time to tighten everything down!

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 08.jpg

The top view gives you a good look at the awesome face plate. I went ahead and used bronze chicken head knobs for the potentiometers as well as an amber jewel for the indicator light.

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 11.jpg

Dino Deluxe 5E3 - 10.jpg

Above are a couple of views of the front and top. I went ahead and added the "Steggo" nameplate like I used on my previous build - also from Precision Designs!

Once it was together, I went ahead and powered it back up to put it through its paces. It's definitely louder than my 5F2-A - but that's unsurprising given the difference in power between the two. The sound at lower volumes is punchy with tons of bass response, but as you increase the volume, it goes into some wonderful breakup providing an amazing rock sound.

This was an amazingly satisfying project, and now I have another amazing amp to add to the collection (this could get addictive). It is possible to buy a new production, hand-wired '57 Custom Deluxe from Fender - but it will set you back $2600. I was able to build this one for probably a third of that. The big test will come this next weekend when I bring it into my favorite local guitar store to face off against the real thing!

Original blog entry (with more pictures and preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/06/another-amp-project-dino-deluxe-5e3.html
 
So, for my first 5E3 build I decided to pretty much go stock - but I may build another with the RobRob mods... though I want to design a custom chassis for that - and I may build it as a head rather than a combo. Enough preamble - on to the pictures!

View attachment 76868

For this build I once again used a bit of a mix of parts. The chassis, eyelet boards, wiring, and many of the small parts are all from Mojotone. I did however decide to splurge for a few of the bits. Where appropriate, I upgraded all of the resistors from carbon composition to carbon film. I also went with my own capacitor choices as well. The electrolytic capacitors are a mix of F&T and Jupiter. The film caps are SoZo NextGen Yellow Mustard Vintage. The tubes (which appear later) are all Tube Amp Doctor. I picked up the resistors, caps, and tubes from Amplified Parts.

View attachment 76869

As with my previous amp project, wiring the eyelet board was fairly straightforward - and a lot of fun in a very retro sort of way. One nice thing about the 5E3 project is that it comes with a full set of instructions rather than just the basic documentation (as Mojotone frequently uses this kit in their classes). I picked up a few good tips and tricks from the instructions, but eventually found myself referring to the layout more than the instructions themselves. As you can see from the photo above, there is a little wiring underneath the eyelet board as well.

For the transformers, I also decided to splurge a bit and went with Mercury Magnetics transformers. The power transformer is a FTDP-350 lower B+ transformer, and the output transformer is the modern, rather than vintage, wired version. These generally follow the same wiring conventions and colors as the ones supplied by Mojotone, but they always include the technical specs with the purchase, so it's easy to translate if there is a different colored wire.

As with most transformers you get a fair amount of wire length, so when they're first installed in the amp chassis, you get rainbow spaghetti. In the photo above I've already installed most of the switches, pots, tube sockets, some of the jacks, and the indicator light. The instructions did advise waiting on the input jacks as that end of the board would get very crowded quickly.

Another change this time around is instead of going with the etched indicators like on the Tweed, I designed a custom face plate. This one is a bit more "steampunky" than the original. I had a 5E3 template that I brought into Illustrator to design the plate. Once again, Precision Design came through with an absolutely spectacular job!

View attachment 76873

Given how tight the chassis of the narrow panel Tweed amps is, I enlisted Steggi's help to actually get everything wired up!

View attachment 76874

Once all of the major hardware was installed, the long process of wiring began. Once again, the layout was very clear, so figuring out where all of the components needed to be wired in wasn't too bad. I first wired the primary switches, bulbs and power tubes. You'll note that using a modern wiring configuration, what would be the "Standby" switch is not actually wired. So, since it isn't wired, and the standard numbering of the potentiometers on this amp is from 1 to 11, the faceplate allows you to toggle between "SPNL" and "TAP" - yeah, I went there.

Next I wired up the output transformer to the two speaker jacks. This part was pretty straightforward, but then came the marathon of wiring the rest of the individual connections. I didn't take additional photos in this phase, but as you can see from the photo below, there is a LOT of wiring. The ground runs are very long, and I tried to tuck those twisted pairs of wire in toward the top of the chassis.

Once again I tried to keep all of the wiring as clean and neat as possible with any points where the wires crossed kept at right angles - especially for any power connections. This amp also has a ground bus wire running across the potentiometers whereas the 5F2-A did not. I kept my multi-meter handy during the entire process so I could ensure that everything was making proper connection - especially the grounds!

View attachment 76876

Once everything was complete, I followed the Mojotone instructions for testing the amp - first without tubes and then with tubes. All of the voltages looked very solid so I decided to go ahead and install all of the tubes and give it a whirl... and oh wow... my socks were well and fully blown off! The sound is was amazing - even without being in the cabinet!

View attachment 76877

Which brings me to the cabinet for this particular build! My first amp build was very much a "standard" style build. It has the look and feel of the original 5F2-A fender tweed amp. This time I wanted to go with something more "dino like" - at least as much as possible. Mojotone will build you a custom cabinet (and will even provide swatches of the material), so I went through the various options to find a covering that would be something a bit different.

View attachment 76878

I ultimately settled on using the brown ostrich tolex for the cabinet with a black/red grill cloth. The ostrich pattern looked suitably organic and sort of "dino like" - and the black/red grill cloth seemed to compliment the tolex. The speaker is also from Mojotone, an Anthem 12" 8 Ohm - which Rexie one again helped me install. Once the speaker was installed, I added the chassis screws to the cabinet and Rexie and Perry the Parasaurolophus helped me get it installed. Once I had everything lined up, it was time to tighten everything down!

View attachment 76879

The top view gives you a good look at the awesome face plate. I went ahead and used bronze chicken head knobs for the potentiometers as well as an amber jewel for the indicator light.

View attachment 76880

View attachment 76881

Above are a couple of views of the front and top. I went ahead and added the "Steggo" nameplate like I used on my previous build - also from Precision Designs!

Once it was together, I went ahead and powered it back up to put it through its paces. It's definitely louder than my 5F2-A - but that's unsurprising given the difference in power between the two. The sound at lower volumes is punchy with tons of bass response, but as you increase the volume, it goes into some wonderful breakup providing an amazing rock sound.

This was an amazingly satisfying project, and now I have another amazing amp to add to the collection (this could get addictive). It is possible to buy a new production, hand-wired '57 Custom Deluxe from Fender - but it will set you back $2600. I was able to build this one for probably a third of that. The big test will come this next weekend when I bring it into my favorite local guitar store to face off against the real thing!

Original blog entry (with more pictures and preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/06/another-amp-project-dino-deluxe-5e3.html
Great work as always Fing. Your dino buddies are great help.
 
Man, that’s badass, I’m blown away! The volume controls work together in a very cool way when you jumper the channels, there are some cool YouTube videos. I started using warehouse speakers. I put a warehouse wgs G12C in mine, warmed it up a bit. The ET65 is cool too. I put one of those on my blues deluxe.
 
Man, that’s badass, I’m blown away! The volume controls work together in a very cool way when you jumper the channels, there are some cool YouTube videos. I started using warehouse speakers. I put a warehouse wgs G12C in mine, warmed it up a bit. The ET65 is cool too. I put one of those on my blues deluxe.
Great ideas! Like I mentioned - I'm thinking of doing a RobRob mod and maybe experimenting a bit more with it. I like the sound - it's a straightforward build (even with the mods) - I just need to come up with a good chassis for it...
 
Great ideas! Like I mentioned - I'm thinking of doing a RobRob mod and maybe experimenting a bit more with it. I like the sound - it's a straightforward build (even with the mods) - I just need to come up with a good chassis for it...
If you want to the Dumble version, I can point you that direction. It tweaks the PI a bit.
 
So, for my first 5E3 build I decided to pretty much go stock - but I may build another with the RobRob mods... though I want to design a custom chassis for that - and I may build it as a head rather than a combo. Enough preamble - on to the pictures!

View attachment 76868

For this build I once again used a bit of a mix of parts. The chassis, eyelet boards, wiring, and many of the small parts are all from Mojotone. I did however decide to splurge for a few of the bits. Where appropriate, I upgraded all of the resistors from carbon composition to carbon film. I also went with my own capacitor choices as well. The electrolytic capacitors are a mix of F&T and Jupiter. The film caps are SoZo NextGen Yellow Mustard Vintage. The tubes (which appear later) are all Tube Amp Doctor. I picked up the resistors, caps, and tubes from Amplified Parts.

View attachment 76869

As with my previous amp project, wiring the eyelet board was fairly straightforward - and a lot of fun in a very retro sort of way. One nice thing about the 5E3 project is that it comes with a full set of instructions rather than just the basic documentation (as Mojotone frequently uses this kit in their classes). I picked up a few good tips and tricks from the instructions, but eventually found myself referring to the layout more than the instructions themselves. As you can see from the photo above, there is a little wiring underneath the eyelet board as well.

For the transformers, I also decided to splurge a bit and went with Mercury Magnetics transformers. The power transformer is a FTDP-350 lower B+ transformer, and the output transformer is the modern, rather than vintage, wired version. These generally follow the same wiring conventions and colors as the ones supplied by Mojotone, but they always include the technical specs with the purchase, so it's easy to translate if there is a different colored wire.

As with most transformers you get a fair amount of wire length, so when they're first installed in the amp chassis, you get rainbow spaghetti. In the photo above I've already installed most of the switches, pots, tube sockets, some of the jacks, and the indicator light. The instructions did advise waiting on the input jacks as that end of the board would get very crowded quickly.

Another change this time around is instead of going with the etched indicators like on the Tweed, I designed a custom face plate. This one is a bit more "steampunky" than the original. I had a 5E3 template that I brought into Illustrator to design the plate. Once again, Precision Design came through with an absolutely spectacular job!

View attachment 76873

Given how tight the chassis of the narrow panel Tweed amps is, I enlisted Steggi's help to actually get everything wired up!

View attachment 76874

Once all of the major hardware was installed, the long process of wiring began. Once again, the layout was very clear, so figuring out where all of the components needed to be wired in wasn't too bad. I first wired the primary switches, bulbs and power tubes. You'll note that using a modern wiring configuration, what would be the "Standby" switch is not actually wired. So, since it isn't wired, and the standard numbering of the potentiometers on this amp is from 1 to 11, the faceplate allows you to toggle between "SPNL" and "TAP" - yeah, I went there.

Next I wired up the output transformer to the two speaker jacks. This part was pretty straightforward, but then came the marathon of wiring the rest of the individual connections. I didn't take additional photos in this phase, but as you can see from the photo below, there is a LOT of wiring. The ground runs are very long, and I tried to tuck those twisted pairs of wire in toward the top of the chassis.

Once again I tried to keep all of the wiring as clean and neat as possible with any points where the wires crossed kept at right angles - especially for any power connections. This amp also has a ground bus wire running across the potentiometers whereas the 5F2-A did not. I kept my multi-meter handy during the entire process so I could ensure that everything was making proper connection - especially the grounds!

View attachment 76876

Once everything was complete, I followed the Mojotone instructions for testing the amp - first without tubes and then with tubes. All of the voltages looked very solid so I decided to go ahead and install all of the tubes and give it a whirl... and oh wow... my socks were well and fully blown off! The sound is was amazing - even without being in the cabinet!

View attachment 76877

Which brings me to the cabinet for this particular build! My first amp build was very much a "standard" style build. It has the look and feel of the original 5F2-A fender tweed amp. This time I wanted to go with something more "dino like" - at least as much as possible. Mojotone will build you a custom cabinet (and will even provide swatches of the material), so I went through the various options to find a covering that would be something a bit different.

View attachment 76878

I ultimately settled on using the brown ostrich tolex for the cabinet with a black/red grill cloth. The ostrich pattern looked suitably organic and sort of "dino like" - and the black/red grill cloth seemed to compliment the tolex. The speaker is also from Mojotone, an Anthem 12" 8 Ohm - which Rexie one again helped me install. Once the speaker was installed, I added the chassis screws to the cabinet and Rexie and Perry the Parasaurolophus helped me get it installed. Once I had everything lined up, it was time to tighten everything down!

View attachment 76879

The top view gives you a good look at the awesome face plate. I went ahead and used bronze chicken head knobs for the potentiometers as well as an amber jewel for the indicator light.

View attachment 76880

View attachment 76881

Above are a couple of views of the front and top. I went ahead and added the "Steggo" nameplate like I used on my previous build - also from Precision Designs!

Once it was together, I went ahead and powered it back up to put it through its paces. It's definitely louder than my 5F2-A - but that's unsurprising given the difference in power between the two. The sound at lower volumes is punchy with tons of bass response, but as you increase the volume, it goes into some wonderful breakup providing an amazing rock sound.

This was an amazingly satisfying project, and now I have another amazing amp to add to the collection (this could get addictive). It is possible to buy a new production, hand-wired '57 Custom Deluxe from Fender - but it will set you back $2600. I was able to build this one for probably a third of that. The big test will come this next weekend when I bring it into my favorite local guitar store to face off against the real thing!

Original blog entry (with more pictures and preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/06/another-amp-project-dino-deluxe-5e3.html

Nice work on that! 5E3 is definitely a fun amp to build (and play!). Nails the Hotel California and later Eagles tones as well as Neil Young and Larry Carlton.
Quite a rush to get an amp going, isn’t it?

Man, that’s badass, I’m blown away! The volume controls work together in a very cool way when you jumper the channels, there are some cool YouTube videos. I started using warehouse speakers. I put a warehouse wgs G12C in mine, warmed it up a bit. The ET65 is cool too. I put one of those on my blues deluxe.
The volume controls are also interactive when channels aren’t jumped, but in a different way (and yes, which input you plug into also change it!). Sooooo many tones from an amp with only 3 knobs!
 
Nice work on that! 5E3 is definitely a fun amp to build (and play!). Nails the Hotel California and later Eagles tones as well as Neil Young and Larry Carlton.
Quite a rush to get an amp going, isn’t it?


The volume controls are also interactive when channels aren’t jumped, but in a different way (and yes, which input you plug into also change it!). Sooooo many tones from an amp with only 3 knobs!
I watched a bunch of youtube videos on this very thing.
 
Gah... looks like one of my tubes is kaputt... I think I accidentally damaged it when I was reinstalling after the initial tests... :(

New matched pair on order... *sigh*

Edit - new tubes are in... sounds awesome again - no hum... W00T!
 
Last edited:
Nice job! I like the chocolate grill cloth and tolex combo. I've been meaning to start an amp build this year, either a 5e3 or brown princeton or deluxe, but I've been spending money on drum stuff. Is the tolex and grill cloth from Mojotone too?
 
Nice job! I like the chocolate grill cloth and tolex combo. I've been meaning to start an amp build this year, either a 5e3 or brown princeton or deluxe, but I've been spending money on drum stuff. Is the tolex and grill cloth from Mojotone too?
Yeah, the cabinet is a custom one from Mojotone - they sent me some swatches and I picked from those.
 
So, for my first 5E3 build I decided to pretty much go stock - but I may build another with the RobRob mods... though I want to design a custom chassis for that - and I may build it as a head rather than a combo. Enough preamble - on to the pictures!

View attachment 76868

For this build I once again used a bit of a mix of parts. The chassis, eyelet boards, wiring, and many of the small parts are all from Mojotone. I did however decide to splurge for a few of the bits. Where appropriate, I upgraded all of the resistors from carbon composition to carbon film. I also went with my own capacitor choices as well. The electrolytic capacitors are a mix of F&T and Jupiter. The film caps are SoZo NextGen Yellow Mustard Vintage. The tubes (which appear later) are all Tube Amp Doctor. I picked up the resistors, caps, and tubes from Amplified Parts.

View attachment 76869

As with my previous amp project, wiring the eyelet board was fairly straightforward - and a lot of fun in a very retro sort of way. One nice thing about the 5E3 project is that it comes with a full set of instructions rather than just the basic documentation (as Mojotone frequently uses this kit in their classes). I picked up a few good tips and tricks from the instructions, but eventually found myself referring to the layout more than the instructions themselves. As you can see from the photo above, there is a little wiring underneath the eyelet board as well.

For the transformers, I also decided to splurge a bit and went with Mercury Magnetics transformers. The power transformer is a FTDP-350 lower B+ transformer, and the output transformer is the modern, rather than vintage, wired version. These generally follow the same wiring conventions and colors as the ones supplied by Mojotone, but they always include the technical specs with the purchase, so it's easy to translate if there is a different colored wire.

As with most transformers you get a fair amount of wire length, so when they're first installed in the amp chassis, you get rainbow spaghetti. In the photo above I've already installed most of the switches, pots, tube sockets, some of the jacks, and the indicator light. The instructions did advise waiting on the input jacks as that end of the board would get very crowded quickly.

Another change this time around is instead of going with the etched indicators like on the Tweed, I designed a custom face plate. This one is a bit more "steampunky" than the original. I had a 5E3 template that I brought into Illustrator to design the plate. Once again, Precision Design came through with an absolutely spectacular job!

View attachment 76873

Given how tight the chassis of the narrow panel Tweed amps is, I enlisted Steggi's help to actually get everything wired up!

View attachment 76874

Once all of the major hardware was installed, the long process of wiring began. Once again, the layout was very clear, so figuring out where all of the components needed to be wired in wasn't too bad. I first wired the primary switches, bulbs and power tubes. You'll note that using a modern wiring configuration, what would be the "Standby" switch is not actually wired. So, since it isn't wired, and the standard numbering of the potentiometers on this amp is from 1 to 11, the faceplate allows you to toggle between "SPNL" and "TAP" - yeah, I went there.

Next I wired up the output transformer to the two speaker jacks. This part was pretty straightforward, but then came the marathon of wiring the rest of the individual connections. I didn't take additional photos in this phase, but as you can see from the photo below, there is a LOT of wiring. The ground runs are very long, and I tried to tuck those twisted pairs of wire in toward the top of the chassis.

Once again I tried to keep all of the wiring as clean and neat as possible with any points where the wires crossed kept at right angles - especially for any power connections. This amp also has a ground bus wire running across the potentiometers whereas the 5F2-A did not. I kept my multi-meter handy during the entire process so I could ensure that everything was making proper connection - especially the grounds!

View attachment 76876

Once everything was complete, I followed the Mojotone instructions for testing the amp - first without tubes and then with tubes. All of the voltages looked very solid so I decided to go ahead and install all of the tubes and give it a whirl... and oh wow... my socks were well and fully blown off! The sound is was amazing - even without being in the cabinet!

View attachment 76877

Which brings me to the cabinet for this particular build! My first amp build was very much a "standard" style build. It has the look and feel of the original 5F2-A fender tweed amp. This time I wanted to go with something more "dino like" - at least as much as possible. Mojotone will build you a custom cabinet (and will even provide swatches of the material), so I went through the various options to find a covering that would be something a bit different.

View attachment 76878

I ultimately settled on using the brown ostrich tolex for the cabinet with a black/red grill cloth. The ostrich pattern looked suitably organic and sort of "dino like" - and the black/red grill cloth seemed to compliment the tolex. The speaker is also from Mojotone, an Anthem 12" 8 Ohm - which Rexie one again helped me install. Once the speaker was installed, I added the chassis screws to the cabinet and Rexie and Perry the Parasaurolophus helped me get it installed. Once I had everything lined up, it was time to tighten everything down!

View attachment 76879

The top view gives you a good look at the awesome face plate. I went ahead and used bronze chicken head knobs for the potentiometers as well as an amber jewel for the indicator light.

View attachment 76880

View attachment 76881

Above are a couple of views of the front and top. I went ahead and added the "Steggo" nameplate like I used on my previous build - also from Precision Designs!

Once it was together, I went ahead and powered it back up to put it through its paces. It's definitely louder than my 5F2-A - but that's unsurprising given the difference in power between the two. The sound at lower volumes is punchy with tons of bass response, but as you increase the volume, it goes into some wonderful breakup providing an amazing rock sound.

This was an amazingly satisfying project, and now I have another amazing amp to add to the collection (this could get addictive). It is possible to buy a new production, hand-wired '57 Custom Deluxe from Fender - but it will set you back $2600. I was able to build this one for probably a third of that. The big test will come this next weekend when I bring it into my favorite local guitar store to face off against the real thing!

Original blog entry (with more pictures and preamble): https://steggostudios.blogspot.com/2024/06/another-amp-project-dino-deluxe-5e3.html
Outstanding!
 
Out of interest did you mount this board ? Or is it being “held” in place by wiring etc? I could not see in the pics so thought I would ask. I’ve just received my board from Hoffman amps. It doesn’t have mounting holes but thinking I should probably drill a couple
 
Out of interest did you mount this board ? Or is it being “held” in place by wiring etc? I could not see in the pics so thought I would ask. I’ve just received my board from Hoffman amps. It doesn’t have mounting holes but thinking I should probably drill a couple
There are two mounting screws that run through the eyelet board, an insulator board, and into the chassis held in place with keps nuts.
 
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