Anyone using a Brother to etch?(Monochrome printer)

J

jwin615

Well-known member
Anyone here using a Brother monochrome for toner transfers for etching? I fought mine for an hour and a half today trying to get a good print on adhesive backer paper. Finally got a decent one by printing in the center of the page. I think my drum needs replaced at this point. The wife is a second grade teacher so this thing has printed a million worksheets.
Anyone care to share or link their process for settings(paper type, etc)?
Thanks!
 
This is the printer and paper I’ve used. I get the brother toner cartridges too. Haven’t tried the off-brand stuff. The prints I’ve done have all come out good.

The paper isn’t cheap. I think it was like a buck a sheet. Currently unavailable from Amazon. I must have read a strong recommendation for it somewhere.


 
Press n Peel Blue + Brother printer on thick paper setting + iron has served me well for years and years. But, always expect to fill in some areas with a bit of black sharpie. I did use a laminator at one point for transfers but it was too much work.
 
Erik S said:
This is the printer and paper I’ve used. I get the brother toner cartridges too. Haven’t tried the off-brand stuff. The prints I’ve done have all come out good.

The paper isn’t cheap. I think it was like a buck a sheet. Currently unavailable from Amazon. I must have read a strong recommendation for it somewhere.


Click to expand...
Awesome. Thanks. That's basically the newer version of mine, a 2270dw. Thing has been a workhorse for 15+ years. think inpaid $50 for it on sale.
Do you alter any settings on the printer for paper type or anything? Or just leave it as plain paper and run with it?
My new fancy Brother color laser printer wouldn't even try. Paper jam then toner everywhere, one print had 20% coverage with the rest of the toner being dispersed throughout the printer. Gonna have to make the old monochrome work I think.
I'll check out that vid. Thanks!

bean said:
Press n Peel Blue + Brother printer on thick paper setting + iron has served me well for years and years. But, always expect to fill in some areas with a bit of black sharpie. I did use a laminator at one point for transfers but it was too much work.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian. I was hoping you'd chime in. I remembered you used a Brother but couldn't find the thread over at your forum where you discussed your setup. I think I have a couple of PnP sheets stashed above my bench that I got from smallbear years ago. I'll give that a go. Thanks again!
 
I’ve never tried changing the printer settings from the default/ plain paper, but I have wondered about it.
 
My $.02…

I use magazine paper. Specifically my college alumni magazine (they don’t use that tissue thin paper like some); that degree is finally paying off! ;)
I tried PnP, but it was expensive, and didn’t really give any more consistent results, so I went back to magazine.

I don’t have a Brother, but I do have a cheap Samsung monochrome laser that’s probably comparable. I’d say the keys are, find any settings the printer software will let you access (“Print Quality”, “Contrast”, things like that) and bump them up to max. You want to get it to lay down as much toner as you can. You can experiment on plain paper for this; you’ll be able to see if your prints are coming out darker. Then switch to your transfer paper.

And I do also use the “Thick Paper” setting. If yours doesn’t have that particular preset, look for something that sounds comparable, like “Cardstock”.
 
I ordered a new drum and toner cartridge this morning. It's aftermarket but hopefully works better than the current one. OEM costs twice what I paid for the printer...
Between new drum, full toner and trying a few different mediums, hopefully I'll get a good transfer tonight.
 
jwin615 said:
I ordered a new drum and toner cartridge this morning. It's aftermarket but hopefully works better than the current one. OEM costs twice what I paid for the printer...
Between new drum, full toner and trying a few different mediums, hopefully I'll get a good transfer tonight.
Click to expand...
Let me know how that toner works out. Aftermarket would normally be my preference, but I paid out for the brother last time because I was worried about the performance for etching.
 
My other very-non-pro tip is using cheapo Wet n Wild black nail polish (endorsed by 9/10 teenage goths!) for touching up your transfers. Sharpie works fine for pinholes, but if you need to cover a little bit larger area or want something a little more opaque, this stuff is great.

It dries quickly, and it comes off easily with acetone after you’ve etched. Unlike higher quality enamel paints which can require a lot more scrubbing.
 
Okay. New drum and toner.
Got a good consistent transfer to the paper from those.
First try.
Left, blue press n peel(this stuff has been in my possession for 5-6 years¿ Does it go bad?)
Right, Chinese yellow transfer paper via Amazon.
It's a start.
1000004695.jpg
Sand and try again. Not sure where to set my thrift store Sunbeam iron. not exactly a precision instrument.
I preheated it on cotton for about 8 minutes. I'm pretty sure I overdid the time, and very possibly the heat?
Sand and try again.
 
Im using a brother with cheap amazon refil toner. Ive found using the backing paper that comes with drawer liner/book cover/contact. You peel away the sticky liner and use the backing paper. For those in Aus reading this the stuff from bunnings has been the best so far, found in the craft section.
 
spilla said:
Im using a brother with cheap amazon refil toner. Ive found using the backing paper that comes with drawer liner/book cover/contact. You peel away the sticky liner and use the backing paper. For those in Aus reading this the stuff from bunnings has been the best so far, found in the craft section.
Click to expand...
I have some of that as well. It actually transferred decently pre drum replacement.
Trying a few other methods/temps tonight...
Hopefully will get a functional method worked out.
 
One thing I forgot to mention, and you probably already know, is that surface prep is like 50% of the battle. If you are transferring to an enclosure or copper clad, proper cross-hatch sanding and clean up with Acetone makes a big difference irrespective of whatever printer or toner transfer method you use.
 
bean said:
One thing I forgot to mention, and you probably already know, is that surface prep is like 50% of the battle. If you are transferring to an enclosure or copper clad, proper cross-hatch sanding and clean up with Acetone makes a big difference irrespective of whatever printer or toner transfer method you use.
Click to expand...
I'm attempting to use a 200 grit orbital sander followed by acetone wash. Bum rotator cuff doesn't like repetitive motion.
Also noticing that these enclosures have quite a wide tolerance for "flat".
 
Be sure to get that enclosure gets HOT. I use the iron on the hottest setting. Also press firmly, especially on the edges while heating up but if you see that paper start going dark then its time to quit. I also prefer to soak in water for an hour afterward. I drop it into a bucket straight after heating, ive read the quick temp change can help it stick..

Looking at those last pics you posted that toner looks very thick, i dont get any texture or peeling when doing my transfers. Some brands of toner stick better than others.
 
jwin615 said:
I'm attempting to use a 200 grit orbital sander followed by acetone wash. Bum rotator cuff doesn't like repetitive motion.
Also noticing that these enclosures have quite a wide tolerance for "flat".
Click to expand...
Yep - I've gotten better toner transfer results after running the enclosure on a turned-over belt sander to flatten out the convexity. I also use a tapered rolling pin to very carefully press the paper onto the enclosure after getting it ripping hot with the iron. Gotta push it straight down so it doesn't rip the paper and smear.
 
t1redhands said:
Yep - I've gotten better toner transfer results after running the enclosure on a turned-over belt sander to flatten out the convexity. I also use a tapered rolling pin to very carefully press the paper onto the enclosure after getting it ripping hot with the iron. Gotta push it straight down so it doesn't rip the paper and smear.
Click to expand...
I have a laminate roller somewhere that I thought about using. Couldn't find it after a quick look(one of those used once tools).
Determined that the label paper backing just won't work with this printer. Toner doesn't reliability stick and ends up everywhere, regardless of setting.
Both the blue PnP and the Chinese yellow paper seem to do well enough though, when taped to other paper
I tried printing 6 transfers on a whole sheet of the Chinese paper and it only completely printed on 2 of the 6.
Once I work out time and temp, I think I'll be sorted.
 
So, had some moderate success with the Chinese paper last night.
Dollar Gentruhl black nail polish to patch. I accidentally covered one of my dilling holes. Oops.
Also, experimented with adding clear coat to the sides before etching/transferring. I put the enclosure face down and got it with a couple of coats. Then sanded the top flush. Hope is that I won't need to tape the sides of I do that, ultimately saving a step.
Will try and etch it tonight.
1000004715.jpg
 
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