First amp build, codename “Heavyweight Champ”. In progress.

[jcpst]

This is going to be a 5F1 circuit, but with a 15w output transformer and a 15” speaker.

After some time considering building an amp, I actually decided that I wasn’t going to go DIY for my next amp. I didn’t want it bad enough yet.

But then there was the sad news that BYOC was going out of business, and along with it a very generous discount code. Knowing that there were amp kits, I checked what was left. I saw all the heavy stuff to make an amp almost like one I was considering- a 5f2 15w 15”. There was a chassis left for a 5f1. That was close enough so I went for it.

I don’t want to sound like I’m all excited I got a deal because they had to close shop. BYOC was such a great piece of the web for quite a while.

From BYOC, I got a 5F1 chassis, PT and 15w OT, and a Jensen P15N.

Once I secured those parts, I ordered a RawCab. He already had a 5F1 15” combo as an option in his ebay store.

Then I got the small parts kit, grillcloth, feet and handle from mojotone.



I got a start on it today. Mounted hardware in the chassis, and placed components on the board. There’s a bit of awkwardness from mixing and matching parts of various kits. I reconciled the difference with a quick trip to the hardware store for nuts and bolts.

 

[CanadianDave]

I’m digging that cab.

what’s your plans for finishing it?

 

[jcpst]

I’m digging that cab.

what’s your plans for finishing it?

My plan is to do a stain. With the TV-style cab, I think it would be cool if it looked like a piece of furniture.

If for whatever reason I decide I don’t like it, I could always wrap it in tweed.

 

[CanadianDave]

My plan is to do a stain. With the TV-style cab, I think it would be cool if it looked like a piece of furniture.

If for whatever reason I decide I don’t like it, I could always wrap it in tweed.

Take my advice for what it’s worth, but I would look into French polishing with dewaxed shellac. You’ve got a cool grain on that plywood, and stain can go blotchy very easily.

Shellac is a strange process when it’s your first time, but you mix the shellac flakes with alcohol, then rub it on with a pad (that’s how I got rid of my old socks).

It takes no effort to get a mirror gloss. You can add tinted shellacs and build color, which will sit on top of the wood and act like a tinted lens.

And the only fumes you’ll get is the evaporating alcohol, leaving it dry to the touch in a few seconds.

It will sand and polish beautifully once it cures for a week, and if you decide to add extra clear with lacquer or polyurethane, the shellac should make an excellent sealer.

… can you tell I’m a fan?

I just finished this walnut with hardware store spray shellac. Definitely takes longer to dry than French polishing. It also took a little extra work with 0000 steel wool and some car polish, but I’m happy with it.

 

[jcpst]

Take my advice for what it’s worth, but I would look into French polishing with dewaxed shellac. You’ve got a cool grain on that plywood, and stain can go blotchy very easily.

Shellac is a strange process when it’s your first time, but you mix the shellac flakes with alcohol, then rub it on with a pad (that’s how I got rid of my old socks).

It takes no effort to get a mirror gloss. You can add tinted shellacs and build color, which will sit on top of the wood and act like a tinted lens.

And the only fumes you’ll get is the evaporating alcohol, leaving it dry to the touch in a few seconds.

It will sand and polish beautifully once it cures for a week, and if you decide to add extra clear with lacquer or polyurethane, the shellac should make an excellent sealer.

… can you tell I’m a fan?

I just finished this walnut with hardware store spray shellac. Definitely takes longer to dry than French polishing. It also took a little extra work with 0000 steel wool and some car polish, but I’m happy with it.

Oh I saw your cab in another thread. That’s beautiful!