Bassdude output level and impedance

bherren

New member
Hi Folks !

So I got a bassdude kit which I built for my bassist son. He loves the sound of it ! The only small change we did after trying a few different ones is the V1 input tube, which we swapped for a 12AT7. It still crushes at high gain, but seems a bit easier to tame and the kid likes the sound that way.

Now, one of my long term plan is to use it (either as-is or get inspired from the design) to build him an amp head using a tube preamp and a class D module (I have an IcePower ASP 250 and a Hyper UcD 400 around). This however led to a couple of issues for which I would like opinions, mostly to enlighten myself :-)

I am at best a hobbyist when it comes to analog electronics and have a lot to learn, so feel free to call out anything stupid I might be saying here, I'm happy to be educated ! This is also a learning journey for me.

So ... there are two main problems as I see things with the Bassdude as a preamp for the aformentioned power amp modules:

* The output voltage of the bass dude is too high. Nathan measured something like 65V PP. I haven't yet measured the one I built with the 12AT7, I plan to do that and also do the math as an educational exercise in the next few days (I managed to buy a copy of Merlin B's tube preamp book 2nd edition, so that helps). More below on this, but TL;DR is at least the hypex will die if fed more than +/-12V (I checked with them, it will be damaged).

* The output impedance. Now this is getting close to the limits of my understanding (still learning...). What I *think* I understand so far is that the output impedance is fundamentally the ability of the circuit to deliver current without impact on the signal (voltage) and matters mostly if what is connected to the output has itself a low'ish input impedance (that I funndamentally think of as a current draw, treating the reactance component as a frequency-related element). The hypex has a "poor" input impedance of 100kOhm afaik and the IcePower is way worse at 8kOhms (that is really bad from what I understand).

So let's start with the first one. To be completely safe, I'll probably add a pair of 11V Zeners to ensure we clip rather than burn the amp (maybe in serie with a resistor as to not burn the zeners either) to the input of the amp itself. But beyond that, once I have properly characterised the circuit (math and/or measurements), I'm thinking of replacing the existing 1M volume pot with a resistor in series with a small(er) volume pot, to act as a voltage divider and ensure that the max output voltage remains within range. However unless I misunderstand things, this won't particularly help with the impedance issue, on the contrary.

As for the latter, well ... the bassdude has a cathode follower feeding the tone stack if I understand properly. This should be ok in most case, but between the impedance added by the tone stack and the max impedance added by the tone pot (afaik 1/4 of the pot, so 250kOhm), we are way above the input impedance of either power amp.

One thing with the Bassdude is that there's an unused triode in V1. (12AX7 in the original circuit and 12AT7 in mine). Would it make sense to wire it up as an additional cathode follower *after* the tone pot to provide a lower output impedance and thus avoid any possible problem with whatever's connected downstream ? I'm not sure anything can be really done for the bloody IcePower without involving a transistor or an op-amp but I'm not sure I care, I might end up sticking with the HyperX.

Does that make any sense ? Anything fundamentally wrong with my reasoning ? Alternatively I could I suppose put a 5532 or TL072 fed off 9V with a 4.5V BIAS but it gets messy, I'd probably have to try to fit another PCB in the box, and I would have to reduce the max volume further. Plus I like the idea of using the unused triode...

Thanks in advance for any constructive comment :-)
 
I noticed my bassdude in the only circuit that doesn't pair well with a delay i recently built, MXR M118 delay clone from lectric fx.

If the Bassdude is in the signal chain, even bypassed, the repeats simply disappear, i don't know why.

It's probably related to output voltages and impedance, but i know nothing about these topics.

Although, all my other delays are working fine with the bassdude, so i'm not sure what's happening with lectric fx's Star Chamber.
 
I noticed my bassdude in the only circuit that doesn't pair well with a delay i recently built, MXR M118 delay clone from lectric fx.

If the Bassdude is in the signal chain, even bypassed, the repeats simply disappear, i don't know why.

It's probably related to output voltages and impedance, but i know nothing about these topics.

Although, all my other delays are working fine with the bassdude, so i'm not sure what's happening with lectric fx's Star Chamber.
That's odd, afaik when bypassed the bassdude is just a wire from input to output. The input impedance of the Lectric is a bit low with afaik 10M//470k//470k but that should only kick in when actually using the dude and might only result in a small attenuation if your dude volume pot is close to 12 o'clock unless I'm misunderstanding something.
 
The Bassdude is fully bypassed and no part of the circuit affects the signal when in bypass mode, the signal enters the PCB at the top and runs on a single track to the bypass switch, and the same from the bypass switch to the output.
Sometimes the power supply can affect other pedals if it is not up to supplying both pedals with enough power.
Nathan measured something like 65V PP
I have not read that, and I would love to se where that was written.
I can not imagine the output of the pedal being that high, I think it should be able to drive an amp module no problem.
If it was as high as 12V it would most likely damage other pedals or amps that follow it and someone would have said something by now.
By all means measure it yourself and add the 11V zeners but personally I would not bother.
If you use a Bassdude or any other preamp with a power module then make sure you add a send / return in between them, that way you can plug in any other preamp pedal into the return jack and the amp becomes something else.
If you measure the output voltage from the Bassdude then please let us know what readings you got.

Edit: I have run the Bassdude straight into a small 1watt tube amp I made with no problems in the past.
 
The measurement might have been in a private message.

I did some quick measurements myself yesterday using the scope square wave output (5Vpp with a cap to centre it, 1kHz, so kind of a worst case scenario mimicking a bad fuzz pedal).

With all pots to max, not only did we measure something around 70Vpp on the output but we saw 120+Vpp transient spikes at the beginning of each cycle (probably the discharge of the small cap in the treble path of the tone stack). The latter goes away pretty quickly when lowering the treble slightly though

This pedal is *very hot* :-) too hot maybe.... At least too hot for feeding a typical class D power module.
 
Oh wow, now I'm gonna have to dust of my scope and check all my C2CE pedals just to see what I get, and my little tube amp worked perfect with the Bassdude.
Did you place any load on the output when you tried it ?
 
I didn't know you could go overkill when it came to tubes, or power, or how many pedals, guitars, amps you own.
At least not as long as the boss don't find out. (and then I say it must belong to our daughter)
 
I would try to use the spare triode and make it into the missing input channel on the bass dude, it should have a bright and normal channel on the inputs.
Perhaps a buffered send/return could be added between the bassdude and the amp module.
There is a pedal called the Paramix that is a nice little blend send / return circuit, it would not be too hard to build on vero-board if you wanted to try.
 
Just switch out C6 100pF out of the circuit and its a normal channel.
The bright caps are a HPF that cuts out a lot of lower frequencies from the signal, you never want bright caps if you use a bass guitar.
I think that putting the bright cap on a switch is the only mod I made on my Bassdude.
Stick the numbers into a calculator and you can see exactly what they do.
 
That's what I said :-) C6 is the gain pot bypass I was talking about. Note that it doesn't actually cut anything in this circuit, it bypasses the gain pot. ie it allows those high frequency to pass through at full gain regardless of the pot position, while lower frequencies go through the voltage divider formed by the gain pot.
 
Back
Top