While I'm awaiting delivery (stripboard utility) ...

[DS13]

... I thought I'd bring myself up to speed on the newer DIYLC (its been a minute) by putting together a stripboard to centralize power / ground connections to a filtered power supply. I had seen several threads discussing the idea and had a try at a layout:



The filtering section is pretty vanilla. It includes a series resistor, polarity protection diode and 2 filtering capacitors.

Connection points along the left edge are provided from the 9V source (i.e. jack or cell) and to the main effect board, switches or other modules for:

• 9V
• < 9V (sagged)
• 3 LED / aux connections with space for resistors or jumpers. These can be from 9V, <9V or GND - just move R2, R3, R4 from 9V (as shown) to < 9V or Ground.

A full strip of ground connections is provided for star grounding along the bottom edge.

If you have no use for SAG, just leave the pot out, and ignore strip "E".

Please let me know if you see any errors, as well as your thoughts on usefulness / practicality.. Thanks!

 

[phi1]

Nice, couple thoughts

C1 needs polarity flipped
D1 is the 9V to GND style, instead of the series style of pedalpcb. If you apply reverse voltage on accident, D1 will fry. If you do it like PPCB products, applying reverse voltage does no damage. You lose like 0.3V or so (if you use the 1N5817

I would personally omit or lower R1. (PPCB boards usually omit it, I haven’t had any noise issues like that). On my own boards I often put a 10R. If you use a higher current draw, like Fv-1 project, a 47R will drop the operating voltage quite a bit, like as low as 6.5v if the pedal is drawing say 62mA, and waste the rest of heat. Should be well below the 1/4w rating if my math is good.


9V (in) - 0.3 (diode if in series) = 8.7V

If circuit current draw is 0.062A, then the effective resistance is R=V/i = 8.7V/0.062 = 140R

Treating the circuit effective resistance and the 47R as a voltage divider, V(to circuit) = Vin * Rtop / (Rtop+ Rbottom) = 8.7 * 47R / (47R + 140R) = 6.5V

This is rough math but I’ve seen it happen (similar results) when I used a 47R with an fv-1 circuit. If you’re only using this with dirt circuits, which tend to be low current draw, it’s not a problem.

 

[DS13]

Nice, couple thoughts

C1 needs polarity flipped
D1 is the 9V to GND style, instead of the series style of pedalpcb. If you apply reverse voltage on accident, D1 will fry. If you do it like PPCB products, applying reverse voltage does no damage. You lose like 0.3V or so (if you use the 1N5817

I would personally omit or lower R1. (PPCB boards usually omit it, I haven’t had any noise issues like that). On my own boards I often put a 10R. If you use a higher current draw, like Fv-1 project, a 47R will drop the operating voltage quite a bit, like as low as 6.5v if the pedal is drawing say 62mA, and waste the rest of heat. Should be well below the 1/4w rating if my math is good.


9V (in) - 0.3 (diode if in series) = 8.7V

If circuit current draw is 0.062A, then the effective resistance is R=V/i = 8.7V/0.062 = 140R

Treating the circuit effective resistance and the 47R as a voltage divider, V(to circuit) = Vin * Rtop / (Rtop+ Rbottom) = 8.7 * 47R / (47R + 140R) = 6.5V

This is rough math but I’ve seen it happen (similar results) when I used a 47R with an fv-1 circuit. If you’re only using this with dirt circuits, which tend to be low current draw, it’s not a problem.

Thanks for the quick reply..

Oops on C1, my old eyes did not see the (-) polarity. Flipped, thanks!

D1 in series now..

I've typically not used the series R1 resistor either, but wanted a generic design for if/when I may need. So, any resistor on the board can be substituted with a 0R jumper.

Updated layout:

(Note - I stubbornly did not widen the board and instead crowded C1 and C2.. only because I already cut the vero . But ideally it could now be 10x9, leaving a column between C1 and C2)

[EDIT] Then I realized with a little reorg, I have space for a couple standoff locations.