Why does nobody use these outtie DC jacks?

I use the knock-off Lumberg jacks because I can never remember how to wire the lugs on the outies. 🙃 The real question is, can you use an outie with top-mounted jacks on a 1590B?
I would guess so - I can fit the inside threaded version inside a 1590 with top jacks.
 
I use them, the cheap Tayda ones seem very reliable (unlike their cheap small DC jacks), and no desoldering for taking the pedal out of the enclosure is a huge plus for me (the main reason I use them).
I mainly use them because of the cheap tayda jacks are awful, i sold a pedal to guy and the damn cheap tayda jack i used broke. I had to pay return shipping and fix it. Swore to never use the cheap super tight feeling tayda jacks again. I’ve found the outties from stompbox parts have better threads than the tayda ones.
 
I mainly use them because of the cheap tayda jacks are awful, i sold a pedal to guy and the damn cheap tayda jack i used broke. I had to pay return shipping and fix it. Swore to never use the cheap super tight feeling tayda jacks again. I’ve found the outties from stompbox parts have better threads than the tayda ones.
It's a bit unclear what you're referring to, which cheap Tayda jack broke? The outie? I haven't had any issues with those personally, but I wouldn't use the cheapest small size innie DC jacks if I was selling the pedals.
 
Are the cheap lumberg style ones from tayda really that bad? I haven't had an issue with my cables and if anything tight jacks should mean a solid connection right?...
 
I’ve had a few where inserting the barrel connector pushed the ground pin assembly right out of the other end because they weren’t seated properly to begin with or the pin diameter was too wide.That’s where I worry if it’s a struggle to plug them in. I stopped using them after the that happened to a couple, but it could have been a bad batch and I never bothered again. 🤷‍♂️
 
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Are the cheap lumberg style ones from tayda really that bad? I haven't had an issue with my cables and if anything tight jacks should mean a solid connection right?...
I think I've had some where the middle pin was the wrong size (I'm pretty sure it was always the same SKU, but if there's a different similar sized connector with a different middle pin it's possible I made a mistake), and then I had some where they were too loose instead of being tight. They would work if the DC cable was plugged all the way in, but it tended to work itself out a tiny bit and didn't make a full connection.

Could just be a bad batch, like others said, but I had enough bad experiences with them to stop using them. Really the only bad part I've had experience with, only other avoidable parts I've run into is a set of Aliexpress SPDT switches, which worked fine, but felt very loose. But then, ordering no-name parts from Aliexpress for cheap is on me, obviously.
 
Are the cheap lumberg style ones from tayda really that bad? I haven't had an issue with my cables and if anything tight jacks should mean a solid connection right?...
I had a couple of those that had intermittent contact problems.

The big innie jacks from Tayda are my preference. The contacts in the larger jacks (innie or outie) seem like a more robust design to me.
 
I had a couple of those that had intermittent contact problems.

The big innie jacks from Tayda are my preference. The contacts in the larger jacks (innie or outie) seem like a more robust design to me.
I also like the larger innie jacks due to the ease of soldering 22g wire, the ease of plugging a jack in and the old school look. I will use them if there is space because in tight builds it can be a challenge working around them.
 
Are the cheap lumberg style ones from tayda really that bad? I haven't had an issue with my cables and if anything tight jacks should mean a solid connection right?...
Yes, they are terrible. They just fall apart and the threads just strip right off
 
Ah, these are the conversations that keep me coming back here. Thanks for the daily dose. Team outie all the way, and for no good reason. We like what we like.
 
For years I just mounted the LED to the board and never used a bezel of any kind, because those byoc kits🤷
Ooh I didn't even think about team bezel or no bezel... I used to always use a bezel. But recently I've been really digging the look of no bezel! And only use a bezel if I fuck up the drilling. I even drill the final step from the inside to help avoid any chip out.
Boss didn't use a bezel.

Also hey guys, is it actually worth getting the paint out from where the screw goes to help with the screw making an electrical connection from the case to the lid? Cuz I feel like it being in a metal box should be enough protection from interference as it is. I could certainly be wrong but if it's worth it then I will take the time to do so.
 
I feel like this thread is morphing into the hot takes one. Maybe all threads slowly end up doing that?!? Did we discover a new law of DIY forums?!?
 
I feel like this thread is morphing into the hot takes one. Maybe all threads slowly end up doing that?!? Did we discover a new law of DIY forums?!?

On a long enough timeline…
bastard-people.gif
 
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