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Not strictly required, but it might not be a bad idea. I’d say if needed. If you’re doing a long cable run, or you notice there’s some high-end loss, a buffer might be good.

Here’s basically what you want to do: When nothing is plugged in, the reverb out goes to the power amp. The signal to the send jack also goes to the switched tip of the return jack. When you plug a cable into the return jack, it disconnects the tip from the send, so that you get the signal...

The days of wishing are over. Now you collect all 700+ PPCBs

I did get that once- I like it too. But I think I will snazzy up this box a bit. I decided to use more DC “outie” jacks for my cold-weather builds, so that I can quickly pop out the circuit and refinish the enclosure without desoldering when it warms up again. I did not know about this one. I’m...

I’ve thought the same thing. But then if there’s a good amount of gain on tap, you can reframe it as a boost with more control.

This came together quick. Sometimes it’s nice to have something simple to build with readily available parts. I used my budget materials on this. Raw enclosure, and pulled parts out of the scrap box. I really like this fuzz. It can get really saturated, and it can also behave kind of like a...

This one is still in progress for me. But I will say, in my experience the sweet spot on the bias trimpot of a modulation pedal can be tiny. A super narrow range, so it can be easy to miss. Since you’re getting a little bit of phasing, my first suggestion is to just barely nudge that trimpot to...

Yep- like it’s two phasers that I can choose to synchronize. But I still split my signal and use both inputs in a stereo setup. This pedal is not true MISO. The signal going into side B is the output of side A. So output A is A, and B is really A -> B. If you want your bi-phase to be true two...

The schematic on the PCB + the clear lid, that’s super cool.

There’s two ways I use it. One way is stereo. It’s pretty rad when the modulation is going back and forth between two amps. The other way is in my programmable loop switcher. I can run the two sides in series or parallel. I can flip the order of them. I can put a dirt pedal or other effect...

So clean. Is that the tayda white hammer? I really enjoy the Red Snapper, but for whatever reason rarely use it.

Mine does this too. I just assumed it was the way I have the trimpots set.

That turned out great.

I have squeezed two relay bypass boards in a 1590BB. It was a bit awkward, but it worked. I stuck one under the board, and one over the footswitches. I insulated both sides because they would otherwise touch the walls of the enclosure. Check out this build report to see how it looks...

Just genuinely curious as a fan of mid-boost pedals myself- is it the lack of a Q control? I’m a fan of the Varioboost, and that’s probably what I would want. A one channel fully parametric EQ plus a clean boost.

To answer the original question, there is no drawback to using the Cusack enclosures. They are no less durable. As far as hand drilling, it is easier than a hammond, despite a hammond enclosure being already very easy to drill.

I was looking at that Axe Fx, and it looks like it has plenty of inputs and outputs. Is there a reason those won’t work for this case?

Dialing up the resident Brian May aficionado… @mkstewartesq

Another way of thinking of it is to wire what you have now “upside down”. So that the footswitch is pointing the wrong way. Then the wiring is correct and you twist it 180 to orient the footswitch correctly. If that makes sense.

There are PCBs that will fit in a SBP 1590B Pro that will not fit into a regular 1590B. There’s a mm or two of extra space because of the thinner walls. I put a PPCB Spirit Box in one.