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That was my Fuzz War (Bellum I) build. I love the design way more than I love the pedal. I feel like mine never really sounded like the ones other people built. I spent a bunch of time messing with the transistors trying different combinations and was never happy with it. I'd totally get...

I've done both. In general Spencer does a better job and is FAR easier to work with. Being able to get face plates from them as well is a big win. Tayda is a lot cheaper if you need drilling done. If you have to ship your enclosures to Spencer, paying for shipping twice sucks. So I go with...

These are three pedals that I did early on in my building adventures. A friend wanted to buy them, so I opted to rebox them in order to get them UV printed and I wanted to switch out the hardware for the high quality ones that I'm currently using. Gut shots are in the original build reports...

I was breadboarding it from my schematic and realized I left out a couple components and I haven't gotten back to it yet. Squeezing a few more things in isn't such an easy task. No promises as to when I'll do that yet. It's on my list.

Uh oh 🤞

Smallbear sells one they call a 42TM018 equivalent. They don't get more specific than that, but maybe it's something to go on: https://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/transformer-1-1-for-direct-boxes/ I put one of these in the Brassmaster clone I built a while back.

Mouser stocks the Triad one: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/TY-141P?qs=sK90oOEhQaXZYAU4yeNTTQ%3D%3D but perhaps you were trying to find an equivalent at Digikey, in which case I'm no help.

I haven't tried it, but I remembered this post explaining how to rewire the switches. Post in thread 'Parentheses Fuzz (all sorted out its Fixed now)' https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/parentheses-fuzz-all-sorted-out-its-fixed-now.8648/post-79014

I used Mouser PN 595-TLE2426CLPR in mine.

The dimensions do take into account the wider bottom. I grabbed the numbers from the Tayda datasheet: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/datasheets/files/Tayda-A-5161.pdf The extra doesn't really matter since everything is based on the center. One thing I did do differently when I actually...

Exactly. Just copy the file and change the coordinates in the holes section and the size of the enclosure in the sides section. For example here's what I have for the Spirit Box: sides = [ ["A", [66.16, 121.21]], ["B", [66.16, 35]], ["C", [35, 121.21]], ["D", [66.16, 35]], ["E"...

.scad files are just text, you can create/edit them in whatever you like, but openscad itself has an editor built in. Once it put in the coordinates, I render the drawing and export as pdf, which I then print and check that everything lines up. If it's good, then I use those values in Tayda's tool.

With the Spectron and Quadratron, the top jacks won't fit because the holes for the enclosure screws will be in the way, so you need to squeeze them in a bit. That issue has been brought up on this forum before. But I also noticed a few other mistakes where the template in the build doc itself...

Also, don't always trust the dimensions in the Aion build docs. There were several problems with both the Spectron and Quadratron docs that I emailed them about and they don't appear to have updated them. My trick to verify my drill coordinates before submitting is to put them into OpenSCAD...

1/8" should be work. The outer diameter is a bit under 3mm.

The inner wire is 26AWG, so it's a bit smaller. On the jack side I strip the outer casing back an inch or so and twist the shielding braid together and tin it. Then I strip the actual wire back a bit and that's the end i connect to the jack side: On the other end, when I strip the outer...

Here's what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L67M9YT If you just need a piece, drop me a message with your address and I'll throw one in the mail.

Ground plans are good and can eliminate a whole bunch of extra manual routing. Right angles are "bad", but it's honestly more of a cosmetic problem. There are a number of traces that could take more direct routes between the components. Go in one direction as far as you can, then turn rather...

This one comes to mind: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/unicab-with-input-switch-thru-and-balanced-xlr-out.887/

I've had a Prusa MK3 for years now and it's as close to "it just works" as I think you can get. Not the cheapest, but what's your time worth?