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I didn't read the schematic right -- sorry. Couldn't zoom, so I missed the volume pot (needed more coffee!). To answer, c13 will change the tone some..it will allow more/less bass. The c13/R15 is a filter (explained aboved). JWin explains it pretty well, and gives a great link to the frequency...

I can't zoom in on that picture on my phone well, but it's connected to the dpdt foot switch. So, important to the switching circuit but not to the overall RAT sound.

Sometimes the easiest answer is the obvious answer. But at least you KNOW it works. Then, you can compare the schematic from in to our and learn what happens. Oh, and if there's a POP sound in the speakers you found the V+!

We all have to start somewhere!

Self-reply: it was the Flamma power supply causing issues. I tried my OneSpot (that's only 2 spots) and it works fine without noise. Single coils pick up noise, but that's to be expected. Thanks for the suggestions to look at the power supply as a culprit. I still might sneak another power...

Look at these people with all their big brains. I'll look at different options and see what works. Hope I can find the solution.

If the Vibe/Vibrato is your thing, then go for it -- the TriVibe pfb. I think it sounds nice for the price. Yeah, it's mainly SMT, but that doesn't matter. I'll figure out the noise issue. Probably a bad power cap or a noisy TL062.

So, I picked up a used Effects Bakery Butter Roll Vibe. Looking at the insides, I've discovered it's a ROG Tri-Vibe (LM13600, etc). In checking to make sure it worked and sounded great - which it did - I noticed it picks up lots of interference/whining from a power supply I use for a Flamma...

If you want to the Dumble version, I can point you that direction. It tweaks the PI a bit.

Great work as always Fing. Your dino buddies are great help.

Shoot me a PM. I think I might have a couple or know where to find some. Water clear 5mm okay?

You know, stupid things always show up in troubleshooting. Usually, it's the dumbest thing ever.

I'm probably the random goofup that sticks out here:

Bias isn't too hard. Usually most up the cathode resistor to the EL84 pair. Usually they set it at 100 ohms/5W square cermet resistor. Blues Jr. need I think 150-180 ohm to be happy. The change is pretty straightforward. If I can gut a Valve Jr., wire it up, and not burn down an apartment, then...

No problem. I was just looking for a schematic to see what was going on, and the thread showed up. Good luck

Mark Hammer modded one here: https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118149.0 Looks like a simple tone stack cap change and clipper change. Probably don't need much to make it the way you want it.

Ah yes. How heathenly of me! Also, make sure to chew on some cyanoacrylate as an appetizer. Pairs well with the acetone aperitif.

Please don't lick the spray paint. This has been a safety warning from pbrommer.

Okay, so the lighting isn't great and it's been super crazy around here: baseball and softball seasons The purple is dark due to many layers of purple. The green is a nice green. The blue is my favorite, but it's been nicked up from moving (one house move and multiple storage space in said...

I love to use Duplicolor Metalcast Anodize sprays that are translucent. The colors are awesome, especially over a nicely wet sanded aluminum enclosure. One I just did was the Rust-Oleum Imaginations(?) color shift metal flake. One of the best results painting I've ever done. Black semi-gloss...