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@PunchySunshine @Giorfida man, thanks for taking the time to run all of that down. It's hard to find a mostly complete synopsis in one location, so I really appreciate the time you took to write all that up. I have a ton to work on this weekend, but I love doing stuff like this so I'm looking...

@RetiredUnit1 was more than generous with his complete amp knowledge and was very kind when I reached out for help with replacing the caps. From that experience I'm definitely more than mindful about what I'm doing. I'm all about those hook attachments or alligator clips. Made the cap changing a...

I've got a call into a local amp guy, but he hasn't returned my calls yet. I have a ton of components for the amp and have the ability to fix it myself, I just know next to nothing about diagnosing amp Issues. @PunchySunshine for testing, are there actual test pads like for the biasing to test...

@Erik S you're right, just wasn't sure if anyone was seeing this in the Break Room. Apologies for cluttering the boards.

Hoping someone out there can lead me in the right direction, or any direction but the one I'm stuck with for that matter. Problem amp is a 1st Gen. Fender Hot Rod Deluxe. A few months back I replace the about to explode 450/500v big boy capacitors. They were already erupting with gunk coming...

@jimilee wow, admiring your PCB board layout. Awesome idea adding so many different options for hookups/etc. You still have some of those boards? Would love to put a TS between those two

Just get a box of the stuff in the link I posted. No more futzin with loose wires strands, twisting wires, no more shorts because of loose strands. I love it. I just push it through the PCB holes, bend the wire on the other side so it doesn't fall through, solder, clip, done. That box also...

I started with Stranded when I first started building pedals, and boy did I hate it. Someone suggested Solid Core, and I've never looked back. Everyone definitely has their own preference, Solid Core is just way easier and faster to use for me. I'm not building moving mechanical parts...

Nice! I literally do the exact same thing with mine and post-it notes. Go a little further and put the pinouts and npn/pnp. I have WAY too many transistors at this point.......just ordered some more.

Oh, I read that post....I definitely read that post haha. A few more days/weeks, I can manage.

It hasn't been released into the wild yet bud, I've been waiting a year. Stock has been 0 since it's page went up, so you haven't missed out on anything, yet.

The yellow wire is going to the CLR/anode LED under the PCB, white unsoldered wire is cathode. CLR on anode is 2k2. Only works when I touch cathode to ground of 9v jack of course. LED pads on PCB do not work. Heat shrink on led under PCB. Effect works perfect minus no led. If the LED pads don't...

Sooo, the LED is blinding when I connect it from the DC jack to ground. So looks like the LED pads on the foot switch PCB are kaput. Where else can I connect the cathode of the LED on the switch or main PCB so it turns on/off with bypass?

Absolutely, I'll be to my shop in an hour. I also built the PPCB version (Valhalla), so if all else fails, I'll fall back on that. Just like the signal I'm getting from Aion a bit more for my rig.

Is there another place on the actual PCB I can jump the LED to from the 9v DC jack to try that also? I used the breakout board for the foot switch as well, the LED struggles big time on its led pads. I remember seeing in a post here a diagram for jumping an led from the DC connection to another...

Yeah for sure, this is the only pedal they don't light up on. I have some from SDP, Amazon, GPCB, Amp Parts, Antique Elec, so it's definitely not the LEDs.

I'm gonna give that a try when I get to my shop today. Not sure if the DC-DC converter is causing this issue or not. The docs call for the usual 4.7k, but you have to cup your hand over the light to make sure it's even on.

Started with the LED soldered to the LED pads, beyond dim, likely barely lit. Changed LED, still didn't work, changed LED color, no luck. Jumped the LED with/without clr from the 9v Jack, same result. Never had this happen before, beyond stumped.

So I built the Aion DZ4 preamp (love it) a while back, and have been having a ton of LED issues. The LED is insanely dim, I can barely tell when the pedal is engaged or not. I've changed the CLR all over the board, removed the connection from the LED pads on the PCB to all over the board...

Are 33 1n4148 diodes really necessary.......... Edit: yeah......so.........I missed the upper board.........40.......