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Ah damn. It sounds like Arizona then. Not sure, but if you want to hear what Arizona sounds like, build one of these!

It’s not an opamp either…

Yes, I believe that’s exactly what it is. I’ve never played a Zendrive though so I’m not sure exactly how it compares.

Yeah I wasn’t paying attention once when making an order, so now I fit them in whenever I have a build with enough room. 🤣

This might be my favorite modulation pedal of all time?!? It sounds great with just about everything. This was going to be an FV-1 dev board, but I botched soldering the CH341A. Salvaged the USB stuff for another go later and decided to just make this a vanilla Pythagoras.

Great, thick fuzz! Very Arizona sounding (hence the cactus). I’m a fan.

Another 2-in-1 from EffectsLayouts. This one is a TS10/Klon. For the Klon side I used old 1N34a diodes from stompboxparts.com. They measured a bit all over the place, but I did find two relatively close to the target Vf of .350V on my DCA55. Sounds great! The combination was obviously inspired...

Aw thanks. I’m mostly pulling stock photos off the internet. Then I edit them up a bit with Affinity Designer and print a waterslide decal. Check out @thewintersoldier’s excellent tutorial here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/no-film-waterslide-tutorial.5543/

Well I’m a bit late for Independence Day, but I gave this one the full ‘Murica treatment. One side is a blues breaker, and the other is a rat. They make a great combination! Sadly I swapped the label of the footswitches 🤦‍♂️ I also curse myself when doing the off board wiring every time I drill...

The way the breakout board is configured is a bit of a pain. Not a huge deal, but I don’t like the way that the in/out jacks have to cross under the short jumpers or else be run under the middle of the board. Also wish there were dedicated pads for the ground wire of the jacks like PedalPCB...

Finally back at it! This is an ODR-C clone built on an Aion board. My first Aion build, and I see why lots of folks complain about the wiring for them. Still was pretty painless overall. It sounds great! Definitely going to take me a while to get used to the various eq and compression knobs.

42 obviously

I picked up some DACs from Tayda with the idea of controlling the parameter inputs of an FV-1 with an Arduino, but dang they are *tiny*. I did finally manage to solder one to a breakout board with my usual “flood and wick” approach after a few tries, but I’m guessing there’s a better way. Any...

@thesmokingman’s suggestion is a good one too, although phrased a bit surlier than necessary 😉. Pretty much any DMM will do for continuity testing. If it doesn’t have a dedicated continuity mode, set it to measure resistance. Pads that are connected should read close to 0 ohms.

The Lone King is supposedly a really nice TS as well. I haven’t gotten to it yet though, so not speaking from experience.

Oh really?!? Well shoot. I thought they were reputable.

Extra mojo for metal can ICs! These should be legit, I’d think: https://www.jameco.com/z/LM308AH-Major-Brands-IC-LM308AH-Precision-Operational-Amplifier-2-to-18V-500mW_245673.html edit: see note from Chuck below. Possibly not as reputable as I thought.

Honestly, there really is something to be said for that. Music is subjective, and how you feel about a piece of gear often matters more than “does it sound better than X.” Your Kemper patch probably sounds better than my amp, but dammit my amp just makes me happy in a way a modeler never will.

Absolutely nothing. /ducks

Good thought! The cable seems to pass data fine to my midi controller though.