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That's gnarly as hell. I @!#?@! love it! Now I understand that I have no envelope effect with my Dynamorph. That squawk / quack you're getting on the attack with the C&W at certain settings is what I mistook for an envelope effect. So basically, I built a Curds and Whey with The Thing PCB with...

I haven't built a P&C yet, but PedalPCB's offerings have never let me down: Curds and Whey.

I gave up. I tried every value of R60 imaginable. It behaved the same with every value. I even removed R60, and it behaved the same. How is that possible? Removing R60 would disconnect the Vactrol, right? Yet, I still hear an envelope effect. It's unexplainable.

If I had to do it again, I'd leave off the trimpot and wire the LED straight to the trimpot pads with a dangling CLR.

OK, future travelers, this works.

Knowing all this, I still can't find a place to tap voltage for the LED that goes to 0v when the effect is bypassed. Any ideas? I'm a bit stumped.

Here's where it gets weird:

I'm using a VFE bypass board (by Madbean) with Madbean's Pepper Spray (Harmonic Perc.) Audio switching works perfectly, but I can't figure out how to wire the LED. If I can't make it work, I'll just skip the LED, but it would be nice to solve this.

I love the aesthetic on this one. Cool artwork and color scheme. And nice LED bezel and stomp nut dressing. I'd be proud of this one. (Looks way better than most of my stuff.)

That missing pin (on a new 6-pin) would be disconnected when the instrument cable is plugged in. If there are 6 holes on the PCB, you can use all 6 pins. If there are only 5, snip the missing one off, or bend it out of the way.

You can do it! Let us know if you run into any snags.

Thanks. I might give those a try. The guy who runs DIY Guitar Pedals.com.au said he prefers the more diffuse look of the type in the first post. The retrofit type he sells shows each LED as hot spots, which detracts from the visual magic a bit. I realized my post was dumb and tried to...

I love these LED ring stompswitches. But I always chuck the switch. Does anyone know if you can buy just the translucent ring diffuser? Or buy them without the switch.

For added simplicity, you can jumper pins 2 - 3 of the volume pot on the aforementioned booster for a simple 1-knob boost.

The Unicab has a max 12db of gain fully cranked. That may be enough depending on your guitar output (active pickups?,) but it's not ideal from a signal-to-noise perspective. I haven't built one, so I don't know for sure. (It's on my list.) Try it and let us know! If you find it's not enough...

I bought 100 counterfeit TI logic chips from them during lockdown. The ICs had the same smeared TI logo as the ones from Aliexpress. Since they were for customers' product, I had to rebuy another hundred NOS chips. Waste of time and money. (Disclosure per Madbean forum guidelines, these are...

The wall thickness of a 125b and a 1590b (right) looks about the same. By “screw receptacles” are you talking about the audio jacks? I wonder if being situated farther from the lid it’s in a more-angled area. Just pondering out loud. No need to respond if I'm being a pest. I'll figure it...

Cool. Thanks for that heads-up. I'm ordering multiple UV-printed 125b and considering becoming a licensed VFE reseller. But perhaps I'll just start with 1 pre-drilled enclosure to see the deal. Hopefully, I can fashion an adequate spacer to create a tight fit. Gracias!

Hey Jjjimi84, is the spacer necessary? I'm planning to use a 125b for my Woodchipper to match my other PedalPCB-based pedals. I'm not sure what the spacer is supposed to do, keep the SPS system off the lid?