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Decide whether you want the switches to be on the + side or the - side of the LED. That determines whether you use common anode or cathode

Well I spent some time with this and... I don't like it It's not that it's bad, it's just that it my flanger has a more satisfying modulation. And my cepheid looks nicer Okay, so not comparing it to others, how does it sound on its own? The rate and depth controls are the same as on the CE-2...

No, both of those just affect the EQ. I would breadboard the circuit and see if it sounds the same

SW/GND at the four solder pads at the bottom is just for the bypass LED. He's using the audio jack daughter board, which is connected, but the connection at the black wire looks like a garbage fire When you solder wires, do it by stripping 1/4" of insulation off, then twist the strands together...

Deductively... C5 on the board = C4 on the BOM.. C10 on the board = C100 on the BOM. C9 on the board looks like C101 on the BOM There is no R100 on the board, or LED R7 is listed as 4.65k, which is interesting D100 on the BOM is D1 on the board But I would trace the board and compare it to...

It's really easy, just build the second footswitch to mimic the function of the toggle, then on its second set of poles, that's where you put your LED wires. First, you want to remove one leg of the LED CLR and solder a wire to it (in practice this means use a new resistor). That wire will now...

I honestly like pedals with fewer controls, and the Boss chorus is EQ'd pretty nicely to my ears. That being said, it's your design and you should do what you think is interesting. But I would find the Cepheid + Celsius combo well worth the effort on its own

If you tested the pedal and it was fine before installing the last two pots, LED, and exp jacks, then I would start by desoldering those components wire by wire until you find the component that stops the noise. Then inspect that and replace it if necessary

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! I was perusing thru my collection of projects laid to rest (the trash can) and came across these dismembered remains and began to reanimate them in the spirit of the holidays I went thru a roll of desoldering braid cleaning the circuit board I tried to correct the pitfalls of...

C23 according to the schem is a 2.2uf electrolytic rated at 35 volts. Based on how the cables look, it's a safe assumption that J6 and J29 are the send wires, with J29 being the sleeve, or bare wire, and J30 and J31 are the return wires, with J31 being the white. I would solder directly to the...

Pins 1 and 2 of IC1 having continuity is ok. I agree with the VREF issue, it should be higher than 3.5, but the gain pot scratchy issue could be that it's leaking DC into the audio path somewhere. The back of the gain pot does not contact the PCB in this case I believe the weird reading on...

You're going to want to audio probe it and investigate the area where the signal drops out along the bypass signal path. The signal having crackle when the gain pot is low is a clue that AC and DC voltage are mixing when they shouldn't. I would check all the pins of your IC sockets and see if...

It's likely that you burned a trace in the vicinity of the LED. Clean the area with isopropyl alcohol and Q tips and inspect it further. The LED circuitry is really simple so the problem should be obvious once everything is cleaned up.

Try swapping your op amps. Not the clock chips, but the op amps themselves. If you get a bad one they can be noisy like this

Resistors: metal film have a tighter tolerance at 1% whereas carbon film is 5%. I use metal film. Capacitors: there are a few different kinds that we commonly use for pedals - film, electrolytic, and ceramic. Film are the best for sound quality, electrolytic are usually in the power section...

You can use the Je Taime PCB and fine tune it to whatever you want it to be - as it is it's a "distortion" but you can make it into a boost like the arrows or half a Tchula.

"Thinner enclosures for easier drilling" is just marketing speak for "buy my product instead of the other guys." If you apply critical thinking you realize it makes no difference.

I just noticed the sort by A to Z function is gone from the website when perusing thru the PCB listings

Ok so there are two different things we are trying to do: Make the indicator LED bicolor, and make it flash with the LFO. First we are going to do the bicolor. The pic above that shows the speed footswitch and the line "use these pins for a bicolor LED" is a big hint. There are two different...

It's determined by where the LED gets its power and the easiest way to implement a switch If you want it to flash with the LFO then you are probably going to want to use a common anode LED so both colors will get their signal from the LFO, then you can install the CLR's on each neg lead and...