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It's a piece of thin cardboard so the light of one doesn't interfere with the other's

Yeah, I didn't really know what to call this... It started out as a Duo Phase and then I decided to add some more "features", hence the "Deluxe" Ok, I did this with a couple of Madbean boards of a similar project and it came out great so I decided to bastardize this PCB also. I had a 4 way...

Lol! I'm not laughing at you, I just think smoke is funny... Easiest way to convert the Paragon to 9 volts is just to remove the charge pump (TC1044) from the PCB. If you want it voltage selectable, that will be a little harder... Lift up the cathode of diode D15 off of the PCB, see attached...

I find when adjusting the two trimpots: Set depth control to max Set feedback to min Set rate to like 9-10 o'clock. You want the rate slow so you can observe the LED but not so slow that you fall asleep while waiting for it to cycle. For the offset trimpot (10k) I adjust so the LED goes very...

It's kind of hard with this project because the build docs aren't available yet. There is another PCB company (Madbean) that has a similar project and attached here is a pic of the LFO of the univibe. I'm sure both circuits are similar so you can add an LED and 10k (R54 in pic) resistor to the...

Yes, looking at the face of the pedal like you would be using it, left footswitch activates bottom pots. The left footswitch is actually the second "bluesbreaker", the one that analogman sets as boost. The right footswitch is the first bluesbreaker that analogman sets as overdrive (soft clipping).

If you want to get more accurate measurements, take a look at the first photo in my post above and try to test your LDRs like that. I used a 9 volt battery, a 5 volt regulator and a 680 ohm resistor going to the LED. Also, find a small box to cover your test LED/LDR when you're taking measurements.

Now Tayda sells two (2), count them, two types of LDRs: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Ldr All because of lil' ole' me! Lol! It's funny, the ones they were calling KE-10720, they are now calling 5528, I guess as in GL-5528. The new LDR they are carrying is the...

Well it was electrical tape and a THICK slab of velcro. I like using the fuzzy side... The "hook" side looks too itchy for comfort.

I had this problem with mine and all the voltages on the two op amp pins were around 8 volts except for pin 4 which was at ground (0v). Both sections behaved the same. As soon as I took it out of the enclosure, it worked. One side of the PCB was touching the side of the enclosure and it looked...

Thanks BP, because I was about to ask. Lol! Ok, I've learned a new thing for today, I can go back to bed now...

Yeah, I've noticed that. It's easy to kill several hours just matching LDRs. LEDs also have a lot of light output variance. It's hard for my eyes to tell but a LDR will pick up the differences easily.

It would most likely be the 5516. It has the lowest on resistance and is closest to the old Tayda LDRs

Here's some pics with resistance measurements: Guess which ones were last year's stock and which ones are currently sold?

Please see this thread: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/heads-up-tayda-ldrs-waitrony-ke-10720.8105/

Not a question but just to let everyone know... I just bought a bunch of LDRs from Tayda Electronics, the Waitrony KE-10720, the only one that Tayda sells. When I received them they looked off. They have more squiggly lines on their face than the Waitronys Tayda sold around a year ago. I took...

Oooo... You're using the fancy trimmers with the knobbies! If you don't have a scope, find the extremes on the BBD trimmer where the audio at pin 7/8 of the BBD starts to distort and set it in the middle. A scope might get you a little better but the benefit is for the most part negligible. The...

Make any BBD flanger project and lift the dry through signal, it will give you a more intense vibrato effect than a chorus will.

Let me research the DEFX version... Meanwhile, try LM358 or TL062 in the 3 places where the TL022 ICs are. You could try placing a 5k or 10k multi-turn trimmer in series with each 330 ohm resistor but that will probably throw off the depth settings when the pedal is on other modes.

Personally, I think it's the LED brightness. The Tayda LEDs are rated for 2k-3k mcd, which is way too bright. The DEFX Lola uses an LED that's 5mcd, so I would try to get an LED that's under 100mcd output. Where Aion went bad on this project is that there wasn't provisions for setting LED...