I'm putting together my BOM and I'm looking at the LDR values. It doesn't look like they were specified in the build docs. I could also be overlooking something. Is there something that is working for other people?
Not a question but just to let everyone know... I just bought a bunch of LDRs from Tayda Electronics, the Waitrony KE-10720, the only one that Tayda sells. When I received them they looked off. They have more squiggly lines on their face than the Waitronys Tayda sold around a year ago. I took...
I have use the GL5516 LDRs that you find on ebay successfully before in that circuit. I do test them and try to match them before I stick them in. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261651126658
I also test a bunch of them under light to see if they have a similar on resistance and group them together for what it's worth.
There seems to be a fair bit of variance in them, unsurprisingly.
Yeah, I've noticed that. It's easy to kill several hours just matching LDRs. LEDs also have a lot of light output variance. It's hard for my eyes to tell but a LDR will pick up the differences easily.
I tested a batch of 50 of the Tayda (recent purchase) at 3 light levels, and with the exception of a few outliers, was surprised at the consistency. They were not tight toleranced, but I could group them into say 10% spreads for each of the levels. Mainly to try and get the Duophase as symmetrical as I could. (Truly not sure if this will make a sonic difference.) Out of the 50, it was easy to get 6 pair that were very closely matched.