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I had a package last year that evaporated in the USPS system, "shocking" surprise. I sent them an email and next day they had the same order sent to me at no cost, even for shipping. About a month later the original package showed up. I ordered a boat load of germanium transistors so was pretty...

Man, just the definition of a clean build. This is definitely 100% a pedal from PPCB that more than benefits from using a faceplate. Nice work!!! I've had that board/faceplate for almost a year. Your post just moved that project up in line from my massive backlog.

@Robert, hey bud, just wanted to take a second to thank you for dropping Docs with your new PCB releases recently. I know all of us absolutely LOVE that the parts are silkscreened on the boards, but it's always so nice to scope the schematic. Hope you have a wonderful rest of your weekend...

Super cool idea making holes in the PCB for using zip ties to hold down the "lamp shade"

@Robert @p_wats 100% totally agree! That was such a perfect explanation Robert, absolutely understand Vref so much better because of that excellent explanation.

I don't know why, but I ALWAYS have problems with charge pump ic's........unless it's a LT1054. I stopped buying anything else a long time ago. The TC1044 datasheet has information on how to correct oscillation that may occur with that charge pump ic.

I always shoot for stuff between 25v-50v. That way, if I want to use 18v for a particular circuit, I am usually able to. But, that also can depend on the voltage ratings of of IC chips used.

I spend so much money on pedal building, that I try to cut cost some places. For leads, I solder clipped off legs from components I used on the board. I use a flush cutter by clipping the first leg on the end, then resting the fresh clipped bottom of that leg on the cutter to cut the next leg...

Man, I keep seeing threads "popping" up about the SB having issues. I built one this year and mine works perfectly 🤔

I'm a two screw man myself........one has never left me satisfied.

Another option, in some ways the "easiest" option, would be using sockets for the components you want to replace. Completely eliminates any confusing wiring/switches that beginners may struggle with. Then you can audition all the components you want and then settle on the one you like the best...

Planning on building 2 Dual Loop Switchers using the boards from PPCB. I have the Octaswitch, which works great, it's just a big girl and I need something smaller. Are buffers needed for the PPCB loop Switcher? If so, do both foot switches need buffers, or only the input/output?

@Paradox916 hey bud, you got a link for "holy city"? I did a basic search on googs and didn't come up with what I thought I'd find.

Yeah I eventually received everything. Was just short of 2 months from initial order. I sent him a very positive email and he responded about a month after that email, apologizing for the delay and was friendly. Package came a little over 3 weeks later. As I said before, I ordered basically...

@Guardians of the analog :rolleyes:........really man? I was just asking for help. I see it now after looking at the board closer, M4/M5 and R4/R5 are for the LEDs. Never built anything from EL before, so this is new to me. Good to go.

I want to use these 3pdt boards so I can have an LED for each foot switch. What goes where, I'm confused?

Isn't Parasit, Swedish?

I'll take a photo tomorrow. LED was installed on a Parasit PCB

This is all true........except I got some clear yellow LEDs from SBP, and the legs are reversed. Very confusing when I installed them the "correct way" and they didn't work.

I like to wire up the trim pot to an empty wah shell, and use it as a "poor man's wah" that doesn't need/use an inductor. Fun circuit