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The caps you circled look like MLCCs. For the 1 uF variety they are usually X7R rated not the C0G/NP0. For audio signal C0G/NP0 are preferred. You will often see 1 uF X7Rs used in power sections, which is fine. I have goofed a layout before and had to order C0G/NP0 1 uF caps, they exist, but...

Yeah, at 5V, like you said, should be identical to the 3207. Most of the circuits using the 3007 have a charge pump (BTW, they also have loads of clock noise problems). If you wanted to play around, you could try using a 12V power supply and try some larger valued regulators.

Looks sharp! The difference in sound should be headroom, which you might only notice with a drive in front. What regulator did you use?

Looks sharp, dude. I like how you skip the mod switches and go strait Boss.

I prefer the last two. They are pretty close to each other. However, the third option is a bit more visually relaxed with the pot labeled and racing stripe.

Badass

How do you power the tube?

This pedal is the shit! Great work.

Great build! The demo is super useful, makes me think I need to spend some time exploring phaser, too.

Bugg's (Robert) uses an Attiny chip, I believe. I did get the basic relay to work, I have boards if you are interested. Also have the KiCad files around somewhere. Didn't pursue the momentary bi-switching, lost interest. There was also a thread where Robert laid down some super cool...

Thank you, sir :cool: I too have a pressing, and still spin it every once in a while, one of my faves. Yes, I used a sharpie white paint marker and dabbed the paint on the label. Since the no-film is a reverse image, you are effectively blocking out, so, didn't have to stay in all the lines...

I painted the no film label and let it dry. Worked pretty well. I don't think it would look right if the graphic was sharp and clean looking.

This one came out cool. The enclosure is no-film but I got the idea to paint the label before transfer to block in some white area. Went pretty smooth except I over glued and got some bubbles. Since it's such an ugly aesthetic, anyways, I left it alone. Goes with the way it sounds :cool...

Another banger! Love the demos, Pixies is my shit.

Thanks guys, this is good information. Hadn't given it a lot of in-depth thought, just had the general idea. I thought someone else must have had the same idea, I just haven't run across it. Is the shredmaster based at all on the Rat?

Are there any RAT projects out there with more tone shaping ability? A 2 or 3 band EQ?

The comment from MattG is jogging some memory. I remember using 4.5V instead of 5V, too.

It's been awhile since I messed with this stuff. Here's a picture of my Picket3. I have the position of the chip marked with sharpie. Since it's been so long, I forget if those marks are of the right place or where I thought it should be. But the pic should help to compare with what you have...

My pickit2 had the label for the pins slightly askew. Took me a while to figure out that I needed to load the PIC one row over from where I thought it should go based on the labels.

Okay, I'm getting a little past my knowledge here, so, I won't feel offended if someone says I'm all backwards on this. But, you shouldn't read 3.8V at pin 5 of the 602. It's on the same trace as R41 and R42, where you measure 2.17V, it should be the same. Is there a solder bridge that you can...