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They say there is no such thing as a stupid question but there are plenty of inquisitive idiots. I'm work on my order list for a couple of projects and on the the PyroCumulus Fuzz the PCB calls for both 4148 and IN4148. I thought they were the same thing, but please educate me...

The two pads next to the circled area make continuity, this won't cause a problem? I use this solder station set to 750F https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08274HBR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Is that to hot? In getting new soldering tips, what should I look for? Thanks...

I'm half way putting the resistors in when my iron wouldn't transfer heat no matter how much I cleaned and tinned it and I ended up scratching the board. Is there a way to salvage the board and does this mean I should change my soldering tip? The problem area is circled in red.

Count me in too!

Finally I pedal that's so simple there is no way I could screw it up! Well the first hole I drilled was to close to the thread channel and the jack wouldn't fit. At least I don't need any trouble shooting once I got it assembled. Not much else to say other than it changes my amp's channel in a...

I got these finished last weeks and am very happy with both of them. In some respects, the Sandspur is like a higher gain version of the Chop Shop with the Sag and Sundial having a similar function. Sandspur: I used BC109B and Amperex A104 transistors for this. I ended up biasing it by ear with...

I found this guide a really good place when starting to source pedal parts.

I think I got it!. I tried biasing it using the negative terminal on the DC jack against the biasing pad and was able to get both JFETS to about 6.3 volts. Plugged my guitar in and it sounds great!

I got SMD JFETs and I am still struggling to get them to bias. With the new JFETS, I now get sound when engaged, but no clipping. Also there is no sound when the SAG is full CCW. My biasing procedure is: 1) SAG Full CCW 2 Pedal plugged in and engaged 3) Black probe in screw hole 4) Red Probe on...

I just ordered some pre-soldered SMD J201s. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Trimmers say 503 on the side, and I double checked the I/O wiring. I set the sag all the way CCW and checked the voltage and both extremes for the the trimmer. If the Mouser JFETs have different pinouts, would that prevent the signal from passing when engaged?

I'll post a picture when I get home tonight.

I'd be happy to test mine, if you can explain how you test it.

Doubled checked, and it is. I reflowed it from the other side just to be sure. Yes, this is how I measured. Checked this with a multimeter and you are right they are 33R not 33K. Good eyes, I will fix it. Also I ran out of 3PDT breakout boards, so I wired this pedal by hand. Could that be why...

Thanks. In DC volts it's between 0.2 and 4.5 volts, still far of from 6.

I got them from Mouser.

I just finished boxing up the my Chop Shop, and I'm having some trouble biasing the jfets. I have my multimeter on this setting: Putting the black probe on the threads of a screw hole, and touching the red probe on the biasing pad, with the sag all the way CCW I get 3.3-4.9 volts on Q1, and...

Do it, I'd love to hear a side by side comparion.

Wow, what a great circuit. The build was straight forward, other than missing a part on my mouser order, and this is the first pedal in a while that didn't require significant troubleshooting. After putting everything together, it was a little noisy and I didn't get any octave up. I opened up...

Just checked and there is continuity between the center pin and the short leg. Thanks for your help!