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Now, as for correcting the issue... Normally if it was a single value incorrect (considering there are quite a few in stock) I would mark it out on the PCB and make a note in the build doc.... but this involves installing a part backwards, and I'm just not OK with that... So, time for a...

OK, so here we go.... and this is a tricky one. The cap is definitely reverse biased. However, I have less gating with the capacitor installed as marked on the PCB. It has more oscillation and sounds closer to the original germanium version, even though I have 2N3906 installed. I actually...

OK, built one on the standard PCB because I didn't feel like fooling with the rotary / toggle switches. In hindsight, I probably should have so I could switch capacitors on the fly, but this serve should it's purpose.

How is the bias affected by turning the Comp and Gate controls? (or leaky germaniums) I'm wondering if non-polar caps might be the way to go here. I've found a couple other "Fat Foundry*" schematics with electrolytics in the same orientation (which doesn't mean it's right), and a couple in...

My issue is that the machined sockets work great the first time or two, but after a few pulls/reinstalls they start to wear and don't hold the IC very well. I suppose that's not a problem unless you're removing the IC a lot, but that's pretty much the only reason I use sockets. (Aside from the...

Not saying you're wrong, but this is the first time I've heard of anyone having this issue with the project. This sounds like normal behavior for the Fuzz Foundry. This sounds like the behavior of an electrolytic that is installed backwards. I'll take a look.

Make sure you're counting your pins correctly.

OK, now pull the IC out of the socket and measure on the socket itself. Make sure none of the pins of the IC got bent when installing it. And make sure you soldered those pins. I've definitely skipped a pin when I was working in a hurry.

This is the mode you want to use right here: Figure out which button selects that particular sub-mode. My guess is Select or Range, but the manual might help. You want the meter to beep when you touch the leads together.

You're looking for a low ohm reading. Near zero, but anything below 100 ohms or so would be suspect in this case. Does your DMM have a setting where it beeps when the leads are touched together? Usually represented by a diode or speaker/sound symbol.

Definitely. I use sockets in prototypes to make it easier to salvage the ICs afterwards... Otherwise no sockets unless it's intended to be removable (like an EEPROM or something).

One thing I can't stress enough is to be patient and don't start ripping parts off of the board until you're fairly sure. Also, aside from semiconductors (ICs, transistors, etc) from shady sources (Amazon, eBay, Alibaba, AliExpress, etc), it's not extremely common to have a defective new...

Those should be trustworthy then... They looked a little suspicious to me at first, but after comparing to the ones I have here (direct from TI) they look similar. Let's make sure you don't have any solder bridges between the pins of your sockets. Set your DMM to continuity mode, no power...

I use that type of socket in all of my builds and have never had an issue. I am in the minority around here, but I personally don't like the machined sockets. Just make sure the IC is seated firmly. Not to sound like a broken record, but where did you get your TL074s?

It's extremely rare, but I have had a few manufacturing defects over the years. Never anything that affected an entire batch of PCBs unless "someone" made a mistake.... which usually means me. There have been a couple occasions where engineers at the fabricator (I can't recall if it was...

It's hard to say for sure from the photo, but it looks like your 10K resistors could actually be 100K. (fourth band should be red, not orange) Also confirm the values of R17 (22K) and R19 (20K)

If you want to use the LED on the breakout board you would jumper the current limiting resistor and LED on the main PCB. If you want to use the LED on the main effect PCB you would jumper the current limiting resistor on the main PCB, and the LED on the breakout board.

At one point JLCPCB was overcharging tariffs due to the constant and rapid fluctuations. I suspect they aren't going to jump out there and immediately adjust the rates based on this news. https://jlcpcb.com/news/logistics-update-us-china-tariff Due to the fluctuating customs duty rate...

R13 should be 470R, you have 470K installed. By the way, we have genuine 1S1588's in the shop if you don't want to make separate parts orders. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/1s1588/

R10 / 10K on top, R6 / 220K on bottom, assuming op has the current version of the PCB. It's always possible they have a previous revision but the values printed on the PCB itself would be the correct values in either case.