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That's the right way to measure. It does look like your chip is not getting power, and as a matter of fact nothing may be getting power. +1 to checking the jack wiring and/or the reverse polarity protection diode. (D1) Eyeballing the circuit, you should be getting pin1-3: ~4.5V +/- 1v...

Looks awesome! Stick with the SOIC-8's vs SOP-8's, I misspoke in the original post - it's all SOIC-8 that are the 'basic' op-amps. For the Q-Tune I imagine you're probably assembling enough of these ( >= 50 ) that you're into 'Standard' assembly anyway so you don't need to worry as much about...

Yep - I listed it in my guide, it's the Bouni plugin for Kicad. It lets you do the parts assignment as a separate step.

I think it's this -- that once you've added the first through-hole part, you're paying $3.50 setup fee and then per-joint for as many other through-hole components that you have. There might be some caveats with oddball parts that push the design into a 'standard' assembly but I haven't run...

Ah - yeah sometimes the components do dumb things and get rotated. My upload/export plugin corrects some of the rotations automatically but doesn't always catch everything. You can select it and then rotate it w/ the space bar until it sits right. Make sure you check the orientation of other...

Honestly, those tips don't look too bad and it sounds like you're keeping them clean. It's possible that they're garbage tier and the tinning isn't taking. You might be keeping them _too_ clean - you want a little bit of melted solder on the tip, the melted solder helps to melt other solder...

You should send us some pictures of your tip. Just the tip. The soldering looks pretty good. A proper solder joint basically looks just like a Hershey's Kiss. You might add a touch more solder, and/or add some flux. I really like using the Stirri Tacky Flux (I use the UHF, the 30g...

Looks good! The back will be a lot less broken up now. You might be able to spread the top row of resistors apart just a tad to get another trace or two between them rather than on the back. But maybe gilding the lily here. One thing I notice that some people will point out is the 90 degree...

Nice! I'm no expert so take all of this with a grain of salt. I also mostly route SMD layouts but I think most of the advice will hold. Some specific feedback: - Kicad's default track width is soooo smol. Even with SMD components I try to keep my trace width at 0.5mm instead of the default...

Where did you get the 2N5457s? Unfortunately these are pretty regularly (intentionally) mislabeled/counterfeited on amazon/ebay/aliexpress/etc. They're really only safe to get at the guitar pedal community type sites (small bear, stompboxparts, aionfx, ppcb, etc) or in SMD form from...

@Feral Feline , @RobotZombie23 Okay, so it turned out that v0.1 had a mistake that's probably too embarrassing to admit to, but v0.2 has been delivered and built and seems to work! It sounds neat, very doom-y with the lower octaves turned up. I don't really play guitar so sorry, no demo :-P...

For me, switching to lead-free was about tracking tiny pieces of trimmed solder around the house (on my clothes, on my feet, etc). When I'm trimming leads, especially under pots where I want them to lay flat, I trim them close to the board and sometimes cut some of the solder blob along with the...

The grumpy engineer in me says that this is an X-Y problem. :-). It would probably be better to find a way to fix the formulas on your spreadsheet rather than enumerating every possible component you'd need (which culminates in replicating the mouser/digikey catalog in a spreadsheet). For a...

I'm surprised you need to run this hot, especially if you're saying you can touch solder to directly to your iron and not have it melt until you have it up this high. I use lead-free exclusively (SAC305, melting point ~220C). I keep my soldering station set to 360C and it works great, within...

Are you sure the backs of your pots aren't shorting anything out? They look like they're uncovered/bare metal so when they're up against the board you're going to risk shorting things out. Have you tried adjusting the trimpots? I haven't built this specific chorus, but I have built a couple...

Depends on the components. For stuff like resistors and jellybean diodes, they just aren't worth the trouble. Especially for stuff that is like under 5 cents in qty 100 from mouser/digikey (e.g. you can get one resistor for 25 cents or 100 for $2). Pots, maybe - they're big and chonky and a...

Doublecheck the 2.2uF electrolytic capacitors in the middle of the board. The graphic on the landing page shows the silkscreen with the + facing south, but your caps are all installed with the - facing south. But -- the build doc says that all of the capacitors face the same direction with -...

It was a while ago that I set it up, but from what I remember it was really simple. I created a templates directory, then created a project in there like I would create any other project. Then you add a directory called 'meta' and put an "info.html" file in there just with the description...

Also, it's pretty easy to create user templates. (to use them you do File -> New Project From Template). I think you can have schematic as well as PCB templates. I only use the PCB templates. ( I have all of my offboard / power sections as 'Design Blocks' which have already been mentioned )...

In terms of tips and tricks, also take advantage of the 'Design Blocks' feature of the schema editor - get all of your inputs (9v, gnd, etc) laid out how you want, potentially including connectors. Also you can snapshot the common power supply design blocks (power filtering, vref, etc). I find...