Kliche Mini worked... and now no sound?

[dangosp]

Hello,
I recently built the Kliche Mini, assembled in the enclosure, and got it working perfectly, which I was very happy with as a first build. Maybe the 4th or 5th time I played it, all of a sudden I have no sound both bypass or turned on. I read through some past forum questions to try and get a handle on this myself, resoldered around the IC holders, studied the schematics as best I could understand them, built an audio probe, and now I'm stuck!
The circuit turns on, led lights up, no sound at all. Testing with the audio probe, I can get audio From In, R1, C1, and pin 3 of IC1, where there it dies. Not sure its relevant, but I tried swapping the TL072 IC's (IC1 and IC2) and then I get no audio out from C1.
I measured the DC on both TL072's and the TC1044SCPA and got the following:
IC1-
1- 3.4
2- 3.4
3- 7.3
4- 0
5- 8
6- 8
7-8.6
8- 9.1
IC2-
1-7.7
2- 7.7
3-8
4-8
5- 8
6-8
7- 7.9
8-8.3
IC3-
1- 9.1
2- 9.1
3- 0
4 - 9.1
5- 8
6-8.6
7- 8.6
8- 9.1

Sorry for the long winded post, I was so excited that I got this pedal working right out the gate, it sounded incredible with my bassman...and then not!
Thanks in advance....

Photos incoming....

 

[jimilee]

Let me just say, I’m impressed you’re still working on it. I would have trashed it and started over by now.

 

[dangosp]

Let me just say, I’m impressed you’re still working on it. I would have trashed it and started over by now.

I don't know when to quit... also this has been a pretty good learning opportunity for me even with all the frustration, and since y'all have been really helpful with your advice and experience, I also figure I owe it to see it through to the end and post a final update that I actually beat this GD thing.
I'll be out of town for a week but I will post an update WHEN I get this successfully fixed.
Or if you don't hear from me it's because I've strangled myself with the soldering Iron cord.....

 

[dangosp]

Alright, I'm back and here's the long awaited update......
It's a failure I replaced the IC sockets, traced the entire board, checked all the contacts, found some broken connections from the IC sockets to several resistors and one cap, bridged those, got good continuity, and powered it up....
Zero voltage coming in. Checked the voltage on the power plug, replaced the jack just in case, and nothing. So that's my end point with this PCB. I've started on a reverb pedal which is going so much smoother using lower temp solder, and I'll order a replacement PCB for this one and have another go at it.
One final question, what are the communities' thoughts on reusing board components if they test normal?
Thank you all for your help again, I'm sorry this one didn't have a happier ending but I lived and learned.

 

[jimilee]

Alright, I'm back and here's the long awaited update......
It's a failure I replaced the IC sockets, traced the entire board, checked all the contacts, found some broken connections from the IC sockets to several resistors and one cap, bridged those, got good continuity, and powered it up....
Zero voltage coming in. Checked the voltage on the power plug, replaced the jack just in case, and nothing. So that's my end point with this PCB. I've started on a reverb pedal which is going so much smoother using lower temp solder, and I'll order a replacement PCB for this one and have another go at it.
One final question, what are the communities' thoughts on reusing board components if they test normal?
Thank you all for your help again, I'm sorry this one didn't have a happier ending but I lived and learned.

Reuse components all the time.

 

[z2amiller]

thoughts on reusing board components if they test normal?

Depends on the components. For stuff like resistors and jellybean diodes, they just aren't worth the trouble. Especially for stuff that is like under 5 cents in qty 100 from mouser/digikey (e.g. you can get one resistor for 25 cents or 100 for $2).

Pots, maybe - they're big and chonky and a bit hard to desolder, but I guess if you've given up on the board they're in, you don't have to be super careful about removal. I have a big pile of DoA boards that I've been meaning to pull the pots out of.

The fancier film caps, probably. Wima caps are what like 30-50 cents each so worth a bit of time to desolder.

Germanium diodes, probably. They're not super expensive individually but a hassle to get since most of the easily accessible ones these days are coming from suppliers in Ukraine. (OTOH these are sensitive to heat from soldering so I'd want to test them after removal)

Op-amps and other ICs are a no-brainer assuming they're socketed. If you've soldered them in, probably not worth the trouble and potential damage unless you use a hot air station and just knock them out all at once. Or maybe if you have a Fancy vacuum desoldering iron. Trying to desolder them with a manual pump + desoldering wick is gonna take forever and probably damage them anyway.

Ultimately it's a time vs money calculation, and the tipping point is different for everyone. If you're mostly time limited, you probably just chuck the whole board. If you're mostly money limited, you might spend a lot of time even pulling out and saving 10k resistors.

 

[jimilee]

Depends on the components. For stuff like resistors and jellybean diodes, they just aren't worth the trouble. Especially for stuff that is like under 5 cents in qty 100 from mouser/digikey (e.g. you can get one resistor for 25 cents or 100 for $2).

Pots, maybe - they're big and chonky and a bit hard to desolder, but I guess if you've given up on the board they're in, you don't have to be super careful about removal. I have a big pile of DoA boards that I've been meaning to pull the pots out of.

The fancier film caps, probably. Wima caps are what like 30-50 cents each so worth a bit of time to desolder.

Germanium diodes, probably. They're not super expensive individually but a hassle to get since most of the easily accessible ones these days are coming from suppliers in Ukraine. (OTOH these are sensitive to heat from soldering so I'd want to test them after removal)

Op-amps and other ICs are a no-brainer assuming they're socketed. If you've soldered them in, probably not worth the trouble and potential damage unless you use a hot air station and just knock them out all at once. Or maybe if you have a Fancy vacuum desoldering iron. Trying to desolder them with a manual pump + desoldering wick is gonna take forever and probably damage them anyway.

Ultimately it's a time vs money calculation, and the tipping point is different for everyone. If you're mostly time limited, you probably just chuck the whole board. If you're mostly money limited, you might spend a lot of time even pulling out and saving 10k resistors.

I do it if I’m building something and a need a part to finish it up. With the right solder sucker, parts are easily removed. The one that Robert sells here is excellent.

 

[falco_femoralis]

Alright, I'm back and here's the long awaited update......
It's a failure I replaced the IC sockets, traced the entire board, checked all the contacts, found some broken connections from the IC sockets to several resistors and one cap, bridged those, got good continuity, and powered it up....
Zero voltage coming in. Checked the voltage on the power plug, replaced the jack just in case, and nothing. So that's my end point with this PCB. I've started on a reverb pedal which is going so much smoother using lower temp solder, and I'll order a replacement PCB for this one and have another go at it.
One final question, what are the communities' thoughts on reusing board components if they test normal?
Thank you all for your help again, I'm sorry this one didn't have a happier ending but I lived and learned.

I reuse socketed IC's and maybe stuff I don't normally have duplicates of, like certain transistors, but the rest of it like regular resistors and capacitors just isn't worth the effort of pulling them out.

I've learned to always socket my IC's. The trick with them is when you're soldering them in you want to jump around the pins so you aren't soldering a neighboring pin that's still hot. Do like pin 1, then pin 8, then 3, etc etc. It cuts down on the heat you're putting into the board and into the socket.

 

[dangosp]

I do have quite a bit of extra resistors from the other build, I'll use up those when I get back to this one. Good point about soldering the sockets. I think thats where my trouble began as the plastic deformed and may have pushed the solder elsewhere, then upon removing I think some of the circuit paths got damaged. Better to do it right the first time.
I'm amazed at the difference in working properties between the unleaded and leaded solder. My iron heats up well, but it seems to take so much heat to get the component/wire/socket to flow the unleaded stuff that overheating seems inevitable. The leaded solder truly only takes a few seconds of heat to the component to start flowing.