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The caps would need to be in parallel not in series. You could get a double throw switch and just have two wires run to the board cap. Then add any caps you want to add to the value. In series the caps will lower value. Like this but omit the middle cap and pretend it's the board cap...

Could be both. I would check the wires going to the board to the switch first before pulling anything. Bypass the switch with alligator clips if possible or an audio prob. Also check if the switch wiring is correct.

Not the original switch in there. That would be my first guess.

I just draw the schematic and any notes on the inside lid of everything I build. Mainly in case something eventually goes wrong.

You could try a 1M resistor to ground at the input and output. Alligator clip them in and test it.

Finished this up this week. This is my slightly tweaked version of an emulation or recreation of the drive gain circuit of a Silvertone 1484. There are a bunch of schematics of these online. Looks like something Run Off Groove would post. I can't figure out where it originated from. It's a...

Are you trying to change the output impedance to work with the fuzz? True bypassing that pedal will not be easy, if not impossible.

Wouldn't splitting a wet out do what you want minus the CV sequencing? Like run only the repeats into other effects such as modulation.

Always thought the originals were barely at unity gain. Love the almost crappy 60s fuzz harshness of the one I built. I was thinking of adding a boost to the end of mine for a while. Curious if they put a boost in front to add sustain or saturation. Because sustain isn't an adjective I'd use...

The transformer is just acting as a pickup simulator in a way by getting the impedance similar to the guitar pickup's. It's a cool easy trick to get stubborn first-in-line pedals to work with buffers in other pedals in front of them. I've used actual guitar pickups in a pinch in series to...

Not to add to the recent hype, but I've had my digitech bad monkey for 20 years. My favorite TS type of pedal so far. Mainly because of the bass and treble independent controls. I guess there's a PCB here the Virgil overdrive. Klons do a similar type of mid boost thing with a clean signal...

I think being that it's for a tele, they assume you're using a metal plate to mount the pots on. So they would both connect to ground. You could add an extra connection if you're not using a metal mounting plate.

The pinouts on those two opamps are different. Not interchangeable

I have a cheap small 5w vox tube amp. The speaker does suck as do a lot of smaller amps. Best thing I did to it was add a speaker output jack. The thing sounds great through a larger cab.

Yeah. I've been doing that for years, mostly to tell myself what happened in case something does go wrong in the future. Also cool to see the dates when i made stuff.

Found a value tube 12au7 for ¥100 at a shop here in Japan($1). Thought I'd give this old layout a try after many years of wanting to. Basically similar to the Chandler tube driver's tube end section. Which many of you know as a Matsumin valvecaster. I started breadboarding the Chandler up...

Thanks. I might just buy a separate 12 v adapter and leave it as is. Seems like a hassle and a lot of wasted power.

I've made a simple tube overdrive with a single 12au7. Which has a 9 pin that can split the two heaters in pins 4&5 to run in parallel. So I can run the two heaters at 6 volts each to total the 12 volts the tube likes to see. In series I run it at 9 volts and it still sounds great, just less...

https://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/5317/treble-bleed-circuit This is the gospel on all things treble bleed. Check the whole tread for the frequency graphs. One is not "better" than the other.

Well I have a bunch of light on it. It's a tad dark, but there is a lot of sparkle