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Yes, that is exactly the idea! Yup. And direct-incorporation is literally what I've been doing, take this build for example. It has the "previous-gen" version of this design integrated directly into the effect PCB itself. But pretty much the whole lower half of the PCB is just for the...

I used the 74HC14 somewhat interchangeably with the CD40106 in previous bypass designs. It's a hex inverter, not a flip-flop, but it can be wired to essentially be a flip-flop. For this design, I decided on an actual flip-flop mainly because I find it more... satisfying? to use a device...

Both of those examples show up as extended for me, but they are "promotional", I assume that's what you mean by "preferred". Effectively the same as basic, skipping the loader fee. Good idea though - when the time comes to place the order, I might spend some time looking for compatible...

Here's a direct link to the 20260516 PCB render. All the resistors (except one) are 0603. The caps are 0603, 0805, and 1206 depending on their role. I could probably save a little space dropping down to 0402-sized resistors, but the caps are all deliberately sized. I think the DG413 (biggest...

Thanks for your interest! You're in rare but esteemed company! 🥰 The first run is intended to be installed via pin headers, but that's mostly to avoid un-solder/re-solder if the module needs to be fixed (which it probably will). I was flirting with the idea of having both pin headers and...

I used to use a hair dryer back when I first started doing this (with the W1+ glue). I switched to the toaster oven just because it's easier (literally set it and forget it). What do you think about a heat gun versus the hair dryer?

Hmm, that's interesting. It doesn't sound radically different than what I did. You used a hair dryer, where I used a toaster oven, but unless you managed to hit some magic "Goldilocks" temperature, I don't feel that's a major difference. (And as a matter of routine, I always let the...

So I bought this dishwasher save Mod Podge, and tried it with the Sunnyscopa film-free laserjet paper. It didn't really work, I got less than 50% transfer of toner to the enclosure. I was using a bare aluminum enclosure that I'd sanded with 180 grit sandpaper, using an orbital sander. I...

Since you only have three knobs, I'm assuming that's the OG Power Boost circuit, i.e. without a master volume? When I've built this circuit, I've "simulated" the original by turning the master all the way up. And in that case, even with the gain all the way down, there's still a noticeable...

I should also add... I have mixed feelings about I/O jacks being direct-soldered to a PCB anyway. It certainly makes for neat and tidy internals; and it's convenient for building. But the jacks are one of the highest physically-stressed parts of a pedal. So having them isolated from the PCB...

But it also removes flexibility... making it into an I/O board basically forces a specific layout. Do you want top-mount 125B, top- or side-mount 1590B, what about 1590A? Etc etc. The idea is to think of it as an IC for much of your "pedal boilerplate" needs, for use with custom effect PCBs...

That's a likely next-evolution of this circuit. Main reason I don't do it now is that I hand-drill my enclosures and I don't feel that my consistency/precision is good enough for an I/O board. Quoting myself from this thread:

Here's an updated schematic. I'd like to think I'm getting close to a prototype fabrication run. Changes from the previous schematic: Changed the buffer opamp from opa1652 opa2197; besides being cheaper, the opa2197 is rail-to-rail output and input, and also has some built-in RF protections...

I agree with what everyone else has said, and looks like I'm in good company as part of the "hate offboard wiring" crowd. Depending on how much wiring there is, that part of the build might take as much time as the rest of the build combined! On one of my most recent builds, the Old Fashioned...

I also posted this to DIYStompBoxes, but it's not getting much attention over there, so I thought I'd see if it piqued anyone's interest here. In my pedal builds, for bypass switching, I generally prefer a buffered electrical bypass scheme (similar to typical Boss pedals). I've been doing this...

SS-3 no. The compressor, almost: several years ago, I built Aion's Oceanid, which is a Cornish OC-1 Optical Compressor Clone, but it's been sitting in my "to debug" pile ever since. It's either super subtle or I made a similarly subtle mistake.

The actual effect circuit is the Cornish CC-1. I copied Aion’s Cepheus schematic. I did make a change, but I don’t think you can call it a mod. The original circuit uses a bootstrapped BJT as a buffer (I.e. the “Cornish buffer”), and a single opamp for the final (Baxandall) stage. That seemed...

I don't know. But one datapoint with real numbers: my last order was Feb 21, 2026. I had two different PCBs, 5 pieces each. $4.21 for one 5-lot, and $2.09 for the other (cheaper because of the auto-coupon). Shipping was $3.50, tax $0.62. Order total was $10.42.

With JLCPCB, five is the minimum quantity for a PCB. If you go with all the default options, and the cheapest shipping, it’s usually like $2 for the PCBs and $5ish for shipping. So under $10. That $2 for the PCB implies an automatically applied coupon. So if you add another batch of five PCBs...

I love seeing you get these successful builds, keep ‘em coming! That Weston Grey from SBP is one of my favorites.