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Yeah, I've used them for electrolytic (SMD) assembly without any trouble. Make sure you filter on 'Economic' when you're searching for electrolytic parts -- I think there are some brands that use kind-of nonstandard reels so they don't qualify for the economic PCBA assembly. There aren't any...

I have a layout done and routed. 15 "extended" parts for $45 though, yikes! I'm going to try to play some golf and get the extended component count down (putting components in series/parallel to get the same value as a 'basic' part, etc) but might have limited success since the layout is...

Your friendly proprietor has something like this available: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb429/ It takes the tayda panel mount 1/4 audio jacks and this DC jack. With a drill pattern like this from tayda, the results look quite nice!

Would you call that a Mid Control Control?

Depends on which 2 legs of the pot. Pots might show continuity between middle and edge pins when dialed all the way in one direction. (e.g. a 10K pot goes from 0 ohms to 10k ohms, so if it's dialed all the way to zero, then you get the beep). +1 to pictures. And if everything works except...

This does look pretty interesting. I might try something in KiCAD in the next week or two. If I did, I would do the layout with SMD parts and just have it PCBA'd by JLC, though. With SMD it'd be pretty trivial to fit it in a 125B enclosure. I guess I could make it with the smallest part as...

Is your op-amp IC socketed? That's really easy to try. You should be able to measure the resistance across the caps in-circuit; if any of them measure very low resistance they might be cooked. Do you have an audio probe[link] of any kind? If the previous advice doesn't help narrow it down...

Ah, C3/C4 are supposed to be 220nF (0.22uF) tantalums, not 220uF electrolytics. (I had to double check when you said these chonky bois were part of the audio path!) I imagine 220nF film capacitors would work just fine there too if you can get them into the space. (Leads might be closer together...

I don't see a slam dunk problem, but: See if you can clean up the backside of the board with an old toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol. There's a lot of flux residue on there which makes it hard to see the actual soldering work in your second picture. Some of the soldering of the wires onto...

Rubber duck debugging!

I found that I'd get solder to flow through to the other side much more reliably when I started using additional tacky flux - the rosin core isn't always enough. The correct amount of flux is "more"!

Have you tried hiding the copper layers when you're trying to edit your silkscreen?

What's your input voltage like? Voltage at the charge pump looks pretty low, should be closer to 9v on pins 1/8, that's pretty much connected directly to the +9v source. Low voltage from your supply? Bad zener diode (D3?)