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No offense taken, we don't buy PCBs from us either. :ROFLMAO:

How do you like this one compared to a standard Muff? It doesn't look like it should sound any different (aside from the PNPs) but to my ears there's something different about it. BTW in case you're curious about the "Direct out", it's literally just a second output jack hard wired directly...

Yep, that was the plan. I don't want to keep it. :)

If it comes to that (and I hope it doesn't) I'll trade you a new PCB for your broken build.

I was using one of these.... the last cross bar at the bottom broke off a couple weeks ago. Last night it finally decided it was done. :ROFLMAO: I think it'd be a challenge to find a downgrade.

Yes my understanding is that if you cut them yourself it's a single design. Years ago I got a batch of PCBs that hadn't been V-cut. I didn't have a way to cut them cleanly myself, and when I contacted support they basically gave me a "What do you want us to do about it?" type of response...

Never had any issues with that, but I always specify that there is more than one design in the file. There is a surcharge for panels. It doesn't make a huge impact on large quantities but it's probably significant on quantities of 5 - 10. PCB fabricators consider any differences to be a...

Mine just broke yesterday, following.

Now, as for correcting the issue... Normally if it was a single value incorrect (considering there are quite a few in stock) I would mark it out on the PCB and make a note in the build doc.... but this involves installing a part backwards, and I'm just not OK with that... So, time for a...

OK, so here we go.... and this is a tricky one. The cap is definitely reverse biased. However, I have less gating with the capacitor installed as marked on the PCB. It has more oscillation and sounds closer to the original germanium version, even though I have 2N3906 installed. I actually...

OK, built one on the standard PCB because I didn't feel like fooling with the rotary / toggle switches. In hindsight, I probably should have so I could switch capacitors on the fly, but this serve should it's purpose.

How is the bias affected by turning the Comp and Gate controls? (or leaky germaniums) I'm wondering if non-polar caps might be the way to go here. I've found a couple other "Fat Foundry*" schematics with electrolytics in the same orientation (which doesn't mean it's right), and a couple in...

My issue is that the machined sockets work great the first time or two, but after a few pulls/reinstalls they start to wear and don't hold the IC very well. I suppose that's not a problem unless you're removing the IC a lot, but that's pretty much the only reason I use sockets. (Aside from the...

Not saying you're wrong, but this is the first time I've heard of anyone having this issue with the project. This sounds like normal behavior for the Fuzz Foundry. This sounds like the behavior of an electrolytic that is installed backwards. I'll take a look.

Make sure you're counting your pins correctly.

OK, now pull the IC out of the socket and measure on the socket itself. Make sure none of the pins of the IC got bent when installing it. And make sure you soldered those pins. I've definitely skipped a pin when I was working in a hurry.

This is the mode you want to use right here: Figure out which button selects that particular sub-mode. My guess is Select or Range, but the manual might help. You want the meter to beep when you touch the leads together.

You're looking for a low ohm reading. Near zero, but anything below 100 ohms or so would be suspect in this case. Does your DMM have a setting where it beeps when the leads are touched together? Usually represented by a diode or speaker/sound symbol.

Definitely. I use sockets in prototypes to make it easier to salvage the ICs afterwards... Otherwise no sockets unless it's intended to be removable (like an EEPROM or something).