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That’s the weird thing. Both were built within a week or two of each other. Roughly same batch of all components. I typically purchase large orders at a time. Maybe a dozen other pedals built between the two with no issues whatsoever. Also, it may be worth it to point out that I typically...

Here’s another stumper. I have one more pcb doing the same thing, this time a Skeptical Buffer. Again, I’ve built a few of these with no issues at all. Started off doing the same troubleshooting as above. I ended up getting so frustrated tonight, that I took my time replacing every single...

I’ll give that a shot!

It’s the Little Green Scream Machine. I’m sure hundreds of these have been built without popping, I can claim a handful of them. I just haven’t found an explanation as to why it will pop when an LED is in on one build and not the others. I believe I’ve eliminated cold solder joints, leaky...

No worries. I certainly appreciate the help! I did try another LED, just in case. Same thing. I feel like I’ve tried everything. The weird thing is that I’ve built the same pcb, maybe a dozen times. Using the same batch of components from Mouser (resistors from Tayda), without an issue...

So, I’ve been scouring for the last couple days, read the AMZ article and combed through the forums. Found a lot of helpful tips and suggestions for solving this. My question is, what could cause switch pop when LED is engaged in a particular TS (the LGSM pcb) build, when all others have been...

Great diagram. Although, you may want to throw a CLR in there :) You could also just use the fixed +9v.

Great looking pedal, inside and out!

Damn that’s a lot of choices!!

Ha! I did always wonder about that when I first noticed it. It does help with organization though.

Maybe his shipping ogre is doing it. It’s on every board I’ve ever built from AionFX. I’m sure I’ve built half his catalog by now. Not nearly as much as I’ve built from PedalPCB, of course:)

AionFX must have great attorneys!

I took a break on it. I know other people have had success with it. Although, I haven’t found anyone that has used it with a SF.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve actually got 9v going into the top of the SF pcb. The 9v wire from BnB and 9v wire from SF are soldered together (temporarily) and powered.

Perfectly.

Got your Vibrobot all built up only to find there’s no trem? Try clipping/lifting pin 6 of your 8038. Apparently some will work without doing so, mine didn’t at all until I did this. Huge thanks to @DGWVI for the info!!

Beautiful build and demo! Thank you very much for the info on lifting pin 6 on the 8038 to get it to work. I thought I got a couple fakes on eBay, until I read your post and gave it a shot. Clipped pin 6 and it now works perfectly! Now off to eBay to compose an apology…. 😬 I’ll make a...

Were they good? I think I ordered the same 5.

Interesting. I haven’t noticed any noise with the 1044’s. I’ve got at least a hundred of them. Next time I build something that takes one, I’ll compare it to the 1054. How does the 7660 compare? I’d imagine closer to the 1044.

Its most likely a voltage inverter for the PNP’s. Probably the TC1044SCPA.