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I went back and forth about this but it was far easier to do it this way than dig through my boxes of old stuff and try to find my GigRig Doubler…

I’m very much of the Hello Sailor Effects mentality where cramming the largest, least practical component on a board is the obvious right choice. HA HA

thanks for this reply! this is great! I spent a lot of time last night looking at other vero layouts now that I've tasted success with one. HA HA!! what electrolytics are you using in that picture? I like the look of them and am obviously swayed by aesthetics :ROFLMAO:

i've been building some germanium fuzz faces for friends and wanted to try the phenolic pcbs from amplified parts (i can only find them there and pigeonfx but pigeon is in england and i hate the tariffs). more than that, i wanted to try to run it on a standard center negative adapter so... here...

No. I use a Cricut machine with their permanent vinyl. I “weed” the extra bits out and then use transfer tape to apply to the pedal surface. This has been the most reliable way for me to do this lately.

Definitely!

I've been in a deep Big Muff rabbit hole lately and came across the Colorsound Power Boost when reading about David Gilmour's use of the Muff. I pulled up the PPCB schematic and figured I would breadboard it to give it a try. I ended up liking it enough to try my hand at a stripboard layout of...

i hope she works 'cause she sure is pretty! HA HA!!

thanks!!

Not sure if this is the right place for this... I am using the layout below for a Colorsound Power Boost and using the values from the PedalPCB Powersound Boost as a reference. In the layout, the 22uf electrolytic on the far right corresponds to C8 in the schematic for the Powersound Boost...

Ok! Fixed it today… reflowed every solder joint and it’s working!! I think it was one of the pins on q4. Reflowed everything in stages and when I did the transistors it started working. Thanks again to everyone who helped!!

Removed it and the cap, jumpered the holes per the build documentation.

Before I soldered these in, I had them in sockets and tried 5088s without success too. And all Of the tested fine in the DCA. I’m at a loss

My response has been very similar to Charlie Brown… I wondered if it was a bad pot. After this weekend, I’m off all next week so I’m going to try to dig into it then.

Reflowed everything. Using the audio probe with a tone generator, I have tone throughout, some louder than others, but always tone. I imagine I’m crossed somewhere but I can’t seem to find it.

Back from work and staring at the board again. 4.3v at q1-3 and almost 5 on q4. Tracing back from output with audio probe shows a pretty significant volume drop at the tone bypass switch. I did crank the amp and there is output from the pedal, just much lower volume than unity. Edit: Removed...

thanks! I never tried to fill out both sides, worried that would be too much solder. I’ll work on it!

Diagram I found was reversed. And I used them in my Dope Priest reversed and that pedal sounds great! I’m completely at a loss. I need to go through it with the audio probe but wondered if just looking at it, someone might see something obvious since it’s two separate builds with the same issue.

I’m plugging it into a PPCB auditorium. There isn’t an LED (I used the 3pdt board with LED). Bypass is fine but no signal when turned on. I’m not defensive about the soldering but if you can explain what’s wrong with it I’d appreciate it. They’re soldered from the bottom, small teardrops and...

i have now tried two separate PCB builds with the Civil War muff specs from the Muffin Fuzz pcb and neither has been functional. i'm not sure what is going on. I've built them the same way as the multiple Triangles and the Dope Priest that have worked fine. I am using the KT3102EM transistors...